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HELP!!! Caster angle...problem with RK steering

andrew2516

NAXJA Forum User
Recently I installed RK Long arms with 8" Skyjacker coils. I measured the caster with the hole next to the diff cover with a right angle and a weight. Is this the correct way to measure caster? and should I try to get it near 6* at that point?

I talked to a guy from RK who gave me $hit today for measuring caster like that and he told me that Chrysler sets the caster and it's not adjustable...what other way would there be to measure this? He said something about you can only measure pinion angle.

I'm having problems getting the steering to turn left and I'm in the middle of somewhat sorting it out with RK.

Thanks
 
So does this mean if I read the angle as bring 2* according to the differential then I should take 9-2=7* and thats my caster?

My reading from the differential right now is 2* with the square from the hole next to the diff cover.

Is this angle ok for an 8" lift?
 
Not to steal the tread but I have been working with my caster and wondering is the 6* with the top of the knuckle forward or angled rearward?
 
Its a compromise between pinion angle and castor.You could help your driveline by giving up some castor.I have a LP D30 and run about 3* castor with no problems(6" w/ LA's).
 
CamoXJeep said:
Not to steal the tread but I have been working with my caster and wondering is the 6* with the top of the knuckle forward or angled rearward?
Rearward!
 
andrew2516 said:
So does this mean if I read the angle as bring 2* according to the differential then I should take 9-2=7* and thats my caster?

My reading from the differential right now is 2* with the square from the hole next to the diff cover.

Is this angle ok for an 8" lift?

That is the stock caster angle and if you can run at that without vibes from your front drive shaft, that is perfect. But if you feel some vibes, raise the pinion a little more until they go away.
 
also i had problems running that steering setup too on eight inches of lift i think the drag link was binding on the trac bar bolt head or something cant remember but i know my turning radius was crap.
 
rupert said:
also i had problems running that steering setup too on eight inches of lift i think the drag link was binding on the trac bar bolt head or something cant remember but i know my turning radius was crap.

Did they do anything for you?

Basically on the phone they were saying there is nothing they can do but I think thats a bunch of BS considering how much I spent on this setup. I've adjusted the angles a few times and I don't really see how its going to work no matter how I have the alignment set...The steering is binding at the rod end on the draglink.
 
Andrew, be more specific describing your problem. The caster change associated with a long arm (radius?) set up should not, in itself, reduce turning radius in either direction. 8 inches of lift will require all kinds of changes to the steering system. You didn't describe what other changes you did to mitigate the affects of your lift, or what adjustments you made. Your RK arms would not cause your problem. If you can't turn the steering wheel the same number of turns, left and right, solve that problem first, then worry about caster. 0*, or negative caster will cause vehicle to be very sensitive to steering wheel movement--dart left, right, with the slightest of wheel input, and result in the wheel not coming back to center, after a turn; it won't limit turning radius.
 
RK took care of the problem, I'm sending the steering back to them today so they can credit my account and look for problems in the setup.

Heres the specs:

2.5" Skyjacker Drop Pitman Arm
RK 3 link
RK track bar and bracket
and the RK steering...which it almost seems that either their bracket is off or my jeep just isn't setup right to work with their setup. I've made a few adjustments which they helped me on but I'm still coming to the same problem that it won't turn left more than 1/2-3/4 of a turn and at that rate I wouldn't even be able to drive it down the road.

The toe was set correctly, the draglink was put on with the wheels straight and the pitman arm center but it seems to be binding at the lower heim.
 
andrew2516 said:
RK took care of the problem, I'm sending the steering back to them today so they can credit my account and look for problems in the setup.

Heres the specs:

2.5" Skyjacker Drop Pitman Arm
RK 3 link
RK track bar and bracket
and the RK steering...which it almost seems that either their bracket is off or my jeep just isn't setup right to work with their setup. I've made a few adjustments which they helped me on but I'm still coming to the same problem that it won't turn left more than 1/2-3/4 of a turn and at that rate I wouldn't even be able to drive it down the road.

The toe was set correctly, the draglink was put on with the wheels straight and the pitman arm center but it seems to be binding at the lower heim.

It's good to see that they're working with you. So what's the plan, JCR 1 ton?
 
ya i never did anything sold the 30 and went with a 44 front. I had the whole rk kit I just remeber one way i couldnt get a full turn either but i dont remeber which way but i think it might have been left. Mine was a trail machine so I didnt do much about it.
 
Andrew, Do you mind describing the RK steering set-up? I looked at their site, but it's not clear at all on how it works. And what year of XJ do you have?
 
I don't know how much this pic will help but here it is on the jeep

HPIM1037.jpg


The draglink comes down from the stock rod end at the top to a heim the bolts onto a bracket close to the stock location. The tie rod is pretty simple, it has a bend in it to clear the draglink and just bolts to each side with a 5/8" bolt.

The problem on mine was the angle at which the draglink came back to the bracket...it made the heim joint already adjusted to one side instead of center while the wheels and pitman were straight. If I could have pushed my axle out another 1"-2" that would have solved the problem but I wasn't looking to stretch my jeep when I bought the steering.

Others have had this steering with no problem but for some reason it just wasn't working out on my jeep.
 
andrew2516 said:
RK took care of the problem, I'm sending the steering back to them today so they can credit my account and look for problems in the setup.

Heres the specs:

2.5" Skyjacker Drop Pitman Arm
RK 3 link
RK track bar and bracket
and the RK steering...which it almost seems that either their bracket is off or my jeep just isn't setup right to work with their setup. I've made a few adjustments which they helped me on but I'm still coming to the same problem that it won't turn left more than 1/2-3/4 of a turn and at that rate I wouldn't even be able to drive it down the road.

The toe was set correctly, the draglink was put on with the wheels straight and the pitman arm center but it seems to be binding at the lower heim.

I don't see how caster has anything to do with not being able to turn the wheel. If you are binding at the knuckle then you might consider 'over the knuckle' or high steer. I'm running somewhere around 7-8" of lift on a Dana 44 with high steer. I ordered a custom draglink and tie rod from Foothill Offroad, I had to use a Wagoneer pitman arm to get full lock to lock steering at the knuckle. pictures are here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397243&page=3
 
Is this correct when your talking about the steering being really sensitive when you have more negative caster versus near zero caster? Everything I have read says just the opposite.

I am currently trying to dial in my newly installed clayton long arms and i'm still figuring out what the best setup will be. How do you know if you have the correct track length on a fully adjustable radius arm setup?? Is it just as simple as looking to see if the coil springs are straight.




Andrew, be more specific describing your problem. The caster change associated with a long arm (radius?) set up should not, in itself, reduce turning radius in either direction. 8 inches of lift will require all kinds of changes to the steering system. You didn't describe what other changes you did to mitigate the affects of your lift, or what adjustments you made. Your RK arms would not cause your problem. If you can't turn the steering wheel the same number of turns, left and right, solve that problem first, then worry about caster. 0*, or negative caster will cause vehicle to be very sensitive to steering wheel movement--dart left, right, with the slightest of wheel input, and result in the wheel not coming back to center, after a turn; it won't limit turning radius.
 
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