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portable winch electrical hookups?

fuzzydog

NAXJA Forum User
Location
BC Canada
i recently picked up an 8000 lb winch for my wheelin but I don't want to mount it premanently. i am going the front/rear receiver route.

If you have a removable winch, please let me know what you have done for plugging the winch in. Pics are always nice...:)

Thanks
 
redheep is right thats what you need. you can usually find them local, at a place that builds trailers or a battery shop. i think i paid less than 16 bucks for mine. when wiring the back if your running from the stock located battery make sure you use the thickest cable you can because you lose more power on longer cable.
 
Andersons can be had cheaper than that - Hell, I'm sure I'll price them better than that!

Besides, if you don't have a heavy cable crimper, you're in for problems.

I've got data for winches by Warn and Ramsey - looks like I'll be getting data for TMaxx next. Drop me a line if you like - I can have everything ready to install for you, if you don't want to bother with all that. Just drop me the line backchannel.

I can also help you with planning your wiring, if you'd like.
 
Pro Stock John said:
How much power do they pull? Do you put an inline fuse into the wiring? I'm guessing if they draw a lot, you have to leave the jeep running so you don't kill the battery.

Anywhere from 100A to around 500A, depending on winch make, model, weight being pulled, and if you're running 12VDC or 24VDC. Typically, a fuse is not installed - but ANL fuses can be had that large, so it's certainly doable. You should weigh your rig, and double that weight to figure a "typical" pull (yanking it out of mud will ramp up the weight, or trying to pull over an obstacle you can't quite driver over creates a good deal of rolling resistance.)

You'll typically end up drawing less current through the winch if you're pulling a smaller percentage of total capacity - pulling 6k# using a 12k# winch will usually result in less drain than pulling 6k# with a 9k# winch.

If you give me more specific information, I can answer you a bit more clearly - but you're going to have to settle for "vague" if you don't.

Since the duty cycle of the typical off-road winch is agreeably low (speaking in percentages - if you hit 5%, you're using it a lot...) some compromises may be safely made in wiring and connectors. That's something else to consider tho - if you're going to do a lot of long pulls, be sure to mention that when you get your wiring done, since it will have to be upsized. Assuming constant duty, you'd be looking at 000AWG or larger - but you can knock that down to about 2AWG if you compromise (most winch makers will give you 1AWG or 2AWG cabling for hookups, and 175A Andersons.)

Of course, larger cabling is available, and Andersons can be had rated for 350A constant duty. But, it's largely up to your intended use, and you will hit a limit on use due to your wiring, if you compromise.
 
I got my connectors and crimper on EBAY. Before crimping the cable in the connector, get some electronics rosin core solder (non-acid). Cut off enough to make a ball somewhere between the size of a pencil eraser and a marble and put it in the connector. Then insert the wire and swage it with the tool. Then heat up the connector with a small torch. The solder will melt and wick up into the cable providing a great connection.

IIRC the crimper/swage tool ran $13 and the connectors were around $6 each for the 400A size.

While you are at it, get an extra connector and extra cable. Make your self a set of heavy duty jumper cables. You can plug them in and be ready to roll. I have also used my receiver winch on another vehicle by using the jumper cable to temporarily connect to the new vehicle.

On one particularly tough recovery, I used a 2" reciever with shacke and a tree saver strap to hook the winch to a tree and hauled a battery over to the winch. I was able to pull in a direction that could not be done with a vehicle.
 
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