• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Manual Trans issues

jcjeeper89

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Chicago
Having some issues with the manual transmission on my '97, 4.0, 5spd.

I am getting some pulling when slowing to a stop with the clutch depressed (like it is not totally disengaged). However the clutch pedal is to the floor.

Also, when I first start up the Jeep, it runs kind of rough (sometimes a jerking feeling, or like a loss of power, or like the clutch isn't totally engaged) for about 10 seconds..then it clears. Foot is definitely NOT on the clutch pedal.

Any ideas? What to check? Problems related?

I am unfamiliar with the hydraulic assist from the brake booster. Could the fluid level be low? Maybe this be causing any of the above?

As always any help/ insight is appreciated. Thanks!
 
This might sound stupid, but,...

You said clutch and flywheel. Did they change the pressure plate?
 
yeah it was replaced as well. I did not have this replacement done. The previous owner did. I bought the Jeep back in January. But I do have the recipt and work done on the cluth.
 
The Brake Booster is totally unrelated to the Hydraulic Clutch. The Clutch Pedal has its own Master Cylinder and Reservoir. It should be a black plastic cylinder on the firewall near the brake master cylinder. You can remove the cap and check the fluid level.

If the fluid was low and air got into the system, I could see how pressing the clutch pedal might not fully disengage the clutch, but I can't see how it would keep the clutch from fully engaging.
 
I would suggest:

1. Bleed the clutch.

If improved, great. If improved for a short time, replace master and/or slave (throw out bearing). Some times people get cheap when doing a clutch job on the cherokee as the concentric hydraulic thow out bearing is a little expensive.

If not improved:

2. Inspect the clutch job. Ensure no fingers are broken in PP, verify someone did not 'resurface' the flywheel with a hand grinder. Verify the condition of the pilot bearing; make sure one exists.
 
UPDATED INFO:

I pulled up the shop invoice for the clutch job the previous owner had done and it reads as follows:

Labor
R & R CLUTCH, P.PLATE & T.O. BEARING
RESURFACE FLYWHEEL

Parts
CLUTCH SET (PPLATE, TO BEARING & DISC)
VALVE COVER GASKET

Now knowing this, what things should I start looking for/testing? Thanks!
 
jcjeeper89 said:
UPDATED INFO:

I pulled up the shop invoice for the clutch job the previous owner had done and it reads as follows:

Labor
R & R CLUTCH, P.PLATE & T.O. BEARING
RESURFACE FLYWHEEL

Parts
CLUTCH SET (PPLATE, TO BEARING & DISC)
VALVE COVER GASKET

Now knowing this, what things should I start looking for/testing? Thanks!

Do a search on resurfacing the flywheel. I haven't don't a clutch YET, but from what I've read you shouldn't resurface the flywheel. Something about the shape of the flywheel or a tapper, I can't really say for sure. Search it.
 
dannyboyxj78 said:
I would suggest:

1. Bleed the clutch.

If improved, great. If improved for a short time, replace master and/or slave (throw out bearing). Some times people get cheap when doing a clutch job on the cherokee as the concentric hydraulic thow out bearing is a little expensive.
That is exactly what I was going to say.
 
My 96 has the all one piece master, slave and line assembly. It can not be serviced, no place to bleed. Throw away and go to the dealer.

The flywheel can be resurfaced. There is some debate, but it can be done.
 
ratherbcamping said:
My 96 has the all one piece master, slave and line assembly. It can not be serviced, no place to bleed. Throw away and go to the dealer.
As in, it cannot be bleed?

I have the same set-up in my '95 AX-5, I have replaced all the fluids except the clutch. From what I gather in the Haynes manual, you can pull the slave cylinder from the bell housing (but NOT disconnect it from hydraulic line) and there is bleeder screw on the inside face that will be exposed.

Is that true, or is there NO bleeder port at all?
 
I haven't had time to do much of anything yet. I check the fluid level and it seems to be fine. Right now looking for the easiest, cheapest fixes first. This will be my Saturday project.

Review/addition to symptoms:


Still the jumping feeling when first accelerating in 1st or 2nd, like loss of power, or clutch engaging and then disengaging over and over. (my foot is off clutch pedal) This happens for no more than 10 seconds.

Shifting becomes harder the longer I am driving. It starts off pretty good, but after 30-45 mins shifting isn't as smooth. Hard to pop it back into 1st from a stop, hard to get in reverse and then hard to get out of.

Pulling feeling when slowing to a stop with the clutch depressed but still in gear (like it is not totally disengaged). However the clutch pedal is to the floor. This happens pretty consistently.

Thanks!
 
Back
Top