where to buy SYE

Where do you all buy your SYE kits. I live in VA. Looking for fast / inexpensive shipment. Thanks.

Tom Woods Driveshafts.

He is a naxja vendor.

www.4xshaft.com

check out DC4wd.com He is in VA as well and I just got a killer deal on a set of gears from him, I'm sure he has some good deals on SYEs as well

jeepinoutfitters.com

HD SYE for $219 shipped....and I believe mine shipped from Ohio, so it should get to you pretty quick...

PORC's SYE for only $164.99. I think shipping is around $20 and it was fairly fast getting here. This is what I run and it's just as good as any one elses.

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...d=153&osCsid=6567fdf0173bb95c1b958d9889666455

krackerjack87 said:

PORC's SYE for only $164.99. I think shipping is around $20 and it was fairly fast getting here. This is what I run and it's just as good as any one elses.

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter...d=153&osCsid=6567fdf0173bb95c1b958d9889666455

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Yep. No reason to spend more or go anywhere else.

yup i actually vistied them when i went to atlanta.they were out of the PORC sye and well...........after looking for a bit they actually just got an Advanced Adapters sye- that they sold me for the exact same price as there PORC sye!!!!!!!!!!!!! with out any more questions i think you should be done searching now PORC IS the only choice now for you!!!!!!!!!!:laugh3:

Another vote for PORC!

PORC sye is what i got

Don't you also need to change out the driveshaft? That seems to be where the price jumps from ~$170-$200 into the $400+ range.

Looking at the PORC SYE, they are $165 + $290 (minimum) for a shaft brings it up to $455. The Tom Wood's kits range from $400 to $525 which include the SYE and shaft.

Is there another way to get the shaft cheaper? I'd love to get the SYE done ASAP, but I've been holding out until I get the $525 for the Tom Wood's kit.

if you do some calculations you can bolt in a front drive shaft-literally-from a couple of jeep models-search the junk yards.here is a link for the measurements and jeep/mopar part numbers that are on a stiker on the drive shaft itself,making looking for one without needing a tape measure,but having one with you is nice.I have a SYE an using a 93 zj front shaft v8 model with 6.5 inches lift np231 transfer case and 8.25 rear axle---here is the link---------->>>>>.http://www.crownautomotive.net/catalog/axle/propeller_shafts2.html

spudly said:

Don't you also need to change out the driveshaft? That seems to be where the price jumps from ~$170-$200 into the $400+ range.

Looking at the PORC SYE, they are $165 + $290 (minimum) for a shaft brings it up to $455. The Tom Wood's kits range from $400 to $525 which include the SYE and shaft.

Is there another way to get the shaft cheaper? I'd love to get the SYE done ASAP, but I've been holding out until I get the $525 for the Tom Wood's kit.

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some people can get away with a stock front XJ shaft (with an auto) if you have around 4.5" of lift or so. if you are able to get away with that, that drastically reduces the price for a new driveshaft.

amsXJ, what's your tranny and rear axle combo?

Ask what country the T-case output shaft is made in. A lot of cheap China shafts are floating around and the heat treating only penetrates 2 mm. You can see it on the broken shaft. JB conversions sells good stuff and a local driveshaft company can build whatever you want. Tom woods is not what he used to be and you can tell by all the weight they have to add to the shaft. A well made (straight)drive shaft should not need balance weights. Balance weights are added to a shaft that is not built straight to counter the effects of the shaft not being made straight. Tom woods shafts somtimes have three weights on them. Hmmmm. Just make sure they make your shaft with spicer non-greasable u-joints or you may get stuck with weak neapco joints that have huge holes drilled in them for grease to flow. The hard parts neapco maks are good but I would not accept the joints. If you want a cheap shaft cut a front cv drive shaft up and find a pipe that will slide tightly over the tubing in the length you want. You may have to add perfect wraps of tape on the cut shaft end so it is lined up the best you can. Lay it on flat concrete and weld it. If it runs fairly true you can then have it balance if you want. Yes I have done this on 4 shafts with excellent results and I never balanced any of them. I used drill pipe and could carefully walk my jeep sidways when I high centered on the drive shaft. Was not a daily driver and I ran the wobblest tires known to man 36 TSL SX on the wobbliest wheels known to man steel beadlocks so I can't tell you how balanced my shafts really were. But they fit the bill of cheap and strong and I could never tell any additional vibration.

IntrepidXJ said:

some people can get away with a stock front XJ shaft (with an auto) if you have around 4.5" of lift or so. if you are able to get away with that, that drastically reduces the price for a new driveshaft.

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Cool, I'm on a 4.5 RE so I would just need to hit pick and pull for a front shaft and then $165 for SYE. Well under half of what I was expecting!

Sorry for the thread jacking amsXJ :looney:

One more question, does it matter what year/configuration the front shaft comes from?

I have an auto with 8.25 rear in my '94.

again link------------>>http://www.crownautomotive.net/catalog/axle/propeller_shafts2.html
here is a list for years and part numbers direcly on the shaft.

it will give you colapsed lenght to help you of what u need.Look for "u-joint type":rof:

D'oh, that's what I get for skimming. Thought it was just for the ZJ length. :gee:

how much should you allow for flex/droop? say u-joints center to center is X. the collapsed length is shorter? call that Y. is there a formula?