OK so u think these are bad ujoints

What do u think. Pic of it from the side.

Pics after i took it off

Cant tell by the pics, did you try checking for play while it was installed?

Might want to replace them anyway since it's already off the Jeep, then you have a baseline on your maintenance schedule.

If you pull them and under the cap this comes out:


Then they are dead. But yea if you have them off may as well replace them since you've already done all the hard work.

John B said:

Cant tell by the pics, did you try checking for play while it was installed?

Might want to replace them anyway since it's already off the Jeep, then you have a baseline on your maintenance schedule.

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How can you not tell by the pics. I mean the first pic is of the driveshaft on the vehicle still and its touching metal to metal

U-joints are cheap....they're already out, might as well replace them. Cheap insurance.

BIgDaddyChia said:

How can you not tell by the pics. I mean the first pic is of the driveshaft on the vehicle still and its touching metal to metal

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You were not clear that the shaft was still installed...and i didnt look close enough to catch it.

Still cant tell if the u-joint is good, but we know now that you need an sye as the operating angle is maxed out. And it looks as though you hardly have any slip yoke contact.

I dont think replacing them is an option. The lift is cuasing shaft and end joint to come in contact with each other. SYE is my only viable option.

A YJ slip yoke would give you a bit more clearance on your operating angle, but you really do need an SYE and CV shaft. Your slip yoke does not have much engagement...flexing the rear suspension may allow it to come apart.

and don't work in sandles.....





ask me how I know.

kewlkatdady said:

and don't work in sandles.....





ask me how I know.

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I would assume your missing a toe. And I wasnt actually doing any work. I unbolted the driveshaft between calls for work. wasnt really worried about dropping anything.

not a toe...just lost the toe nail...

but it hurt like a SOB

The joints are probably fine. That's 'mild contact' IMHO. It's when the yokes flatten that you have a problem. I'd just clearance it with a die grinder for until you get a SYE and high angle shaft.

A transfer case drop will improve your angle some. Probably enough to stop the contact of the yokes.

I have those same sandals in my closet.

this...

is a bad u-joint.

granted, mine was an axle-shaft u-joint not a driveshaft u-joint but it's the same animal really.

DirtyMJ said:

The joints are probably fine. That's 'mild contact' IMHO. It's when the yokes flatten that you have a problem. I'd just clearance it with a die grinder for until you get a SYE and high angle shaft.

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You can not really be serious?!?!?!? That is the worst thing to do to a drive shaft and u-joint. Now all you are doing with this idea is letting the u-joint go further than it should be causing undo wear and tear on them. Spend the little bit of money and get a drop bracket and some new u-joints and be done with it for good.

hortonsinnm said:

You can not really be serious?!?!?!? That is the worst thing to do to a drive shaft and u-joint. Now all you are doing with this idea is letting the u-joint go further than it should be causing undo wear and tear on them. Spend the little bit of money and get a drop bracket and some new u-joints and be done with it for good.

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Alrighty. I'll be civil here. Just because I'm not in a bad mood.


I am serious. Dead serious. To do it this way sacrifices strength in the yoke area, so granted it is not perfectly ideal. However, depending on the specific yoke you won't lose a signifigant amount of strength - as in the yoke will still be stronger than the u-joint. Have you looked at a YJ slip yoke? There's a key difference between a YJ and XJ one... The YJ one has the yokes offset greater allowing for the joint to travel farther. Which is EXACTLY the same net effect as griding the yokes for clearance.


As to of it causing increased wear... Well, yes, you've got me there. It will with the output shaft remaining in the more horizontal position (stock drivetran slopes what, 3*?) vs say a dropped crossmember. However, the amount of wear increase will not be horrendous, as the joint just turns slightly in the cap with each revolution. Unless he's planning to pound a lot of pavement I'd not say it will be an issue.


Phone Tom Woods, JE Reel, or High-angle. Ask them how they build a driveshaft to opperate at higher angles... It will most likely involve grinding a yoke or two, and the centre carrier in a double cardon joint, and a few other little nifty things.


You did perhaps notice I told him to buy a SYE in the end? And that I'd use this as a temporary fix? Most likely if the yokes are binding there's no way the driveshaft will be able to withstand being spun up to high speeds without vibing. As that is inherent of single cardon shafts when used at high angles.


Oh, and what part of a tcase drop is 'done for good'? Do you think that is PROPER? Lower the hole mess another couple inches, and make the front driveshaft bind? So now your dragging your belly and wrecking your front shaft. Oh, that's proper.

The drop kit I have does not drop hang down more than stock. And the front shaft angles did not change.

I did miss the temp fix part.

I just removed a yoke that someone had done that to. It was toast. Granted, it may have been done wrong, but it vibed like hell and ate u-joints for breakfast.

Doesn't Tom Woods make a u-joint that gives you ten more * of movement?

As far as a temp fix, yeah, I think you are onto something. But the guy I bought this jeep from looks like he ran it for years.

And as far as me sounding like an ass, I was not going for that effect. Thank you for being civil and clearing up a thing or two.

I bought an SYE kit so its moot at this point.

hortonsinnm said:

The drop kit I have does not drop hang down more than stock. And the front shaft angles did not change.

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I'd like to see that. Just because I don't think it's physically possible. By dropping the tranny mount you angle the entire drivetran farther down - reducing the angle on the rear yoke (and reducing the vertical seperation of it relative to the pinion yoke). Likewise, the front output yoke sees the opposite as far as the angle (it now points more upwards) but does see some benefit from the decrease in vertical seperation. You may well not bind the front shaft - but it is a distinct possibility given that the front suspension typically articulates far more than the rear and the front diff is offset. (although, most guys run HP front axles, okay, so I made a very vauge statement as I did not consider all of the possibilities.)


Either way, I'm one of those guys with a reverse tranny drop.



Belly clearance is key. And having it flat and almost smooth helps.

hortonsinnm said:

Doesn't Tom Woods make a u-joint that gives you ten more * of movement?

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Yes. I don't know anybody who has ran one. The joint works by mimicking the same effect as grinding the yokes. It does it by off-setting the ears on the joint. But I'm sure he'll still grind yokes if you ask him. Maybe in this day and age it is considered to be hack...? Either way, if a driveshaft vibes and you run it at high speed it will inevitably destroy the u-joints. Actually, it's somewhat more prone to causing the yokes to spread first, then destroying the joints. Likewise, reptitvely having the yokes make contact/bind will destoy the joints. It's a matter of how long it has been going on for.