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Another homebrew Longarm setup

C

CamoXJeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Berea, Ky
Basically tired of the short arms and time to move up. Have 96 XJ 6" lift, homebrew crossmember 2x6 3/16wall. Started making the LA's
Lowers 2x2 - 1/4" wall
Uppers 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 - 1/4" wall
Going to use poly bushings on one end of lowers and uppers.
Wanting to use these on the adjustable end of the lowers. http://www.suicidedoors.com/SuperPivotBarEnd.php[IMG]
Which end of the control arms are better for mounting the adjustable end and also the bushing ends? Axle or Frame?

Right now I have brand new stock bushings on the upper axle end, is this acceptable or do I need to use something else?
Also where do I mount the lowers on the frame end? Straight line from the axle mount back to the frame (crossmember)? Or inside the frame on the crossmember?

I know ton of questions, sounds like I have no idea what I'm talking about LOL I am good at fabricating so dont question that just want the best locations for everything so I dont have to do it twice.
 
if your making it a radius arm style longarm (like TnT and RE) you should put the joint on the frame end if you want it to be effective at all. Radius arms bind by definition and need the give of the rubber bushings on the axle end or it won't flex
 
poly...blech.

I'd run a rubber/johnny joint or superflex combo. For comfort, run the rubber on the crossmember end, and johnny at the axle end. As said above, a Y-link will bind by nature. MY suggestion at that point is to run only the driver's side upper link. This will eliminate binding and plenty of people have proven it strong enough if built correctly.

Personally I run like this, only with rubber at all joints, and I have no problem flexing to the limit of my shocks.
 
i've got a homebrew long arm made by JnJ form this site, the y-link is on the pass. side and it works awsome, just got back from a run @ Katemcy Rocks in Mason TX. my rubber bushing are on the axle end on the lowers and the y arm has johnny joints on both ends, works awsome
 
For rubber bushings use factory bushings. They should be just over $20 at a parts store.

Moog/Clevite Part #K3131

For the joint that mates the upper arm to the lower arm, a heim is sufficient enough, just make sure you get a quality one. The johnny joints you posted look just fine.
 
Last edited:
WheelinJR said:
poly...blech.

I'd run a rubber/johnny joint or superflex combo. For comfort, run the rubber on the crossmember end, and johnny at the axle end. As said above, a Y-link will bind by nature. MY suggestion at that point is to run only the driver's side upper link. This will eliminate binding and plenty of people have proven it strong enough if built correctly.

Personally I run like this, only with rubber at all joints, and I have no problem flexing to the limit of my shocks.
Click to expand...
You have it all backwards,you need rubber at the axle end to compensate for the torsional axle twist and some form of flexable joint to allow for the overall axle twist!Mounting the frame side mounts inboard will reduce binding.
 
RCP Phx said:
You have it all backwards,you need rubber at the axle end to compensate for the torsional axle twist and some form of flexable joint to allow for the overall axle twist!Mounting the frame side mounts inboard will reduce binding.
Click to expand...

I'll take your word for it, everything I've read has been the other way around...but I use rubber/rubber so it doesn't apply to me.
 
RCP Phx said:
You have it all backwards,you need rubber at the axle end to compensate for the torsional axle twist and some form of flexable joint to allow for the overall axle twist!Mounting the frame side mounts inboard will reduce binding.
Click to expand...

X2

I've got a home built longarm setup. Factory jeep bushings on the axle side and a Currie JJ on the frame side. My arms are inbound and during flex the body's rotate a lot. I'd think if you went with rubber on the frame side the joints would try to thread/unthread (if they are adjustable) instead of twisting like a spherical joint will.
 
jmop said:
X2

I've got a home built longarm setup. Factory jeep bushings on the axle side and a Currie JJ on the frame side. My arms are inbound and during flex the body's rotate a lot. I'd think if you went with rubber on the frame side the joints would try to thread/unthread (if they are adjustable) instead of twisting like a spherical joint will.
Click to expand...

X3 i had my rear four link all ass back wards. and yes the j joints where threading in and out not twisting

why dose everyone have to be a know it all:wave1:
 
So to make sure I got this right as I'm about ready to buy everything else I need. Already made the arms and have the all thread. JJ on frame end lower arm, bushing axle end lower arm, factory bushing axle end upper arm (Y arm), and Heim where upper meets lower arm? Already have new factory bushings for the uppers installed. Bought all new factory bushings last week for the stock control arms top and bottom then decided to go with LA's. Are there any rubber aftermarket bushings as putting stock rubber ones into a DOM sleeve would be a PITA as they have the flange and after you get one into a sleeve theres no way to press it back out. I know as I tried one the other day at work. Any suggestions for the lower rubber bushings?
 
I did my longarms a couple months ago. I could post pics, but you might be able to find them with a search... search for adamusmc2002 long arm buildup, it's called "This weekends long arm buildup". I used 2" 1/4" wall for the lowers, hyme joints at the axle, johnny joints at the crossmember. Incredible flex. I'm not totally happy with the uppers, but they have survived numerous trips, so I don't think I have anything to worry about. If you want pics, just let me know, I'll post um, but you should be able to find them with that search i mentioned.

Adam
 
my damn pictures won't show up on that thread I mentioned, if you want pics, I'll repost them.

Nevermind, just go to the second page of the thread, I reposted and they show up still. Not sure what happened the first time. Again though, post up or PM me with questions.
 
Got the pics thanks. I was trying to get the offset angle of the uppers to lowers. Figured out 35'. I have to have everything just right as I cant take my XJ to work with me (they would have a cow and I would get fired). My boss is on vac right now and I'm working this weekend so basically any projects we have we have to have them done by Monday LOL I'll try and get pics while I'm at work tomorrow for progress. Thanks
 
I got pics I will post later of my buildup. One more question so i can finish getting my measurements. On the caster I know I want 5-7' but what direction? Top of the axle forward or to the rear? And where do you check the angle at? On top of the "C" or can you check it on top of the coil pad? I was checking it last night and there is a difference of 4' between the two. Also if i get the 6' on top of the "C" the point where the tie rod connects is anlged down, seems a tad to much. Should this be about level with the ground?
 
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