wbt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southern Nevada
Before and After:
This 3 1/2" lift netted between 4 5/8" and 5 1/4" of lift. For the detail oriented; the actual measurements are, as measured from the ground, through the centerline of the wheel, to the bottom of the fender flair:
L/F: from 31 1/8" to 35 3/4" Total = 4 5/8"
R/F: from 30 5/8" to 35 7/8" Total = 5 1/4"
L/R: from 30 3/4" to 35 7/8" Total = 5 1/4"
R/R: from 30 7/8" to 35 1/2" Total = 4 7/8"
On the rear; all the leaf spring eye bolts were insanely difficult to remove. The rear ones I was able to get off with an excessive amount of grunt. On the front eye bolts, the nut inside the frame turned when using a breaker bar. It was late, so I let it set overnight soaking in WD40. In the morning, after 45 minutes of impact gun, it broke loose. The other side broke loose in about 15 minutes -- I didn't have to cut into the frame to get to that inside nut -- I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I did have to notch the pinch seam just a bit to get the impact socket on the bolt -- just on one side though.
I had a rear shackle that was out of align and the bolt was frozen to the sleeve so I played heck getting that back together. I decided to use plenty of anti-seize on my bolts/nuts upon reassembly -- just seemed like a good idea after all the work to get them off.
The instructions state this kit is "usually" shipped with shims. Mine wasn't. Now, the front u-joint on the rear driveline, hits itself when rotating.
Whomever posted about snapping your new, extended brake line when the axle rolled on you -- thanks -- I learned from your mistake.
On the front; I installed JKS disconnects. They came highly recommended. They were really pretty straight forward to install and they seem easy to use. I do wonder why they use zerks that don't have the ball and spring in them though.
Moving the stock track bar over 3/4" per the instructions seemed to center the axle just right. But in looking at the clearance at the axle end and the flex (or lack of) at the frame end, I would think if I really wheeled my XJ, I'd want the adjustable track bar. Oh, that hole that needed to be drilled to move the track bar was 7/16" -- you know, the bit I didn't have but is only EIGHT DOLLARS at the local ACE...
Learn from my mistake: When taking off the track bar, it was under a bind. I didn't realize how much of a bind and I used the impact gun to remove the bolt (axle end). I ruined the bolt and ovaled the hole.
When fully drooped at the front, either the shocks or the brake lines (depending on how the wheel is turned) act as limiting straps. Longer brake lines are in order. The shocks are Pro-Comps. The 4Wheel Parts guy told me it won't hurt them to do so but it just doesn't strike me as a good idea...
The front coils are about half again as thick as the stock ones -- thick enough I had to get longer bolts for the spring retainers.
The new lower controls arms look good and beefy. My wife likes the pretty silver color that RE paints their stuff too (important stuff here). But looking at the angle of the arm when it is fully drooped makes me think I should have just gone ahead, spent the money and gotten the long arm kit. I could see how it might get in a bind if I was nosing up to a vertical obstacle with it drooped.
All in all the installation went well (other than the rear eye spring bolts) but it took a lot longer than I thought it would. Of course I had multiple interruptions and I had a four hour trip into town to swap out the d35 u-bolts I got instead of the 8.25 u-bolts I needed...
When I get the rear drive line issue fixed I'll find out what I think of the ride quality. I get the impression it is going to be quite a bit firmer than I had hoped for. The front coils aren't any longer, just thicker. I also expect the springs to settle. When/if they do I'll report back with the numbers. Eventually I'll add some steel parts to the rig and that will lower it too I'm sure.
This 3 1/2" lift netted between 4 5/8" and 5 1/4" of lift. For the detail oriented; the actual measurements are, as measured from the ground, through the centerline of the wheel, to the bottom of the fender flair:
L/F: from 31 1/8" to 35 3/4" Total = 4 5/8"
R/F: from 30 5/8" to 35 7/8" Total = 5 1/4"
L/R: from 30 3/4" to 35 7/8" Total = 5 1/4"
R/R: from 30 7/8" to 35 1/2" Total = 4 7/8"
On the rear; all the leaf spring eye bolts were insanely difficult to remove. The rear ones I was able to get off with an excessive amount of grunt. On the front eye bolts, the nut inside the frame turned when using a breaker bar. It was late, so I let it set overnight soaking in WD40. In the morning, after 45 minutes of impact gun, it broke loose. The other side broke loose in about 15 minutes -- I didn't have to cut into the frame to get to that inside nut -- I was hoping I wouldn't have to. I did have to notch the pinch seam just a bit to get the impact socket on the bolt -- just on one side though.
I had a rear shackle that was out of align and the bolt was frozen to the sleeve so I played heck getting that back together. I decided to use plenty of anti-seize on my bolts/nuts upon reassembly -- just seemed like a good idea after all the work to get them off.
The instructions state this kit is "usually" shipped with shims. Mine wasn't. Now, the front u-joint on the rear driveline, hits itself when rotating.
Whomever posted about snapping your new, extended brake line when the axle rolled on you -- thanks -- I learned from your mistake.
On the front; I installed JKS disconnects. They came highly recommended. They were really pretty straight forward to install and they seem easy to use. I do wonder why they use zerks that don't have the ball and spring in them though.
Moving the stock track bar over 3/4" per the instructions seemed to center the axle just right. But in looking at the clearance at the axle end and the flex (or lack of) at the frame end, I would think if I really wheeled my XJ, I'd want the adjustable track bar. Oh, that hole that needed to be drilled to move the track bar was 7/16" -- you know, the bit I didn't have but is only EIGHT DOLLARS at the local ACE...
Learn from my mistake: When taking off the track bar, it was under a bind. I didn't realize how much of a bind and I used the impact gun to remove the bolt (axle end). I ruined the bolt and ovaled the hole.
When fully drooped at the front, either the shocks or the brake lines (depending on how the wheel is turned) act as limiting straps. Longer brake lines are in order. The shocks are Pro-Comps. The 4Wheel Parts guy told me it won't hurt them to do so but it just doesn't strike me as a good idea...
The front coils are about half again as thick as the stock ones -- thick enough I had to get longer bolts for the spring retainers.
The new lower controls arms look good and beefy. My wife likes the pretty silver color that RE paints their stuff too (important stuff here). But looking at the angle of the arm when it is fully drooped makes me think I should have just gone ahead, spent the money and gotten the long arm kit. I could see how it might get in a bind if I was nosing up to a vertical obstacle with it drooped.
All in all the installation went well (other than the rear eye spring bolts) but it took a lot longer than I thought it would. Of course I had multiple interruptions and I had a four hour trip into town to swap out the d35 u-bolts I got instead of the 8.25 u-bolts I needed...
When I get the rear drive line issue fixed I'll find out what I think of the ride quality. I get the impression it is going to be quite a bit firmer than I had hoped for. The front coils aren't any longer, just thicker. I also expect the springs to settle. When/if they do I'll report back with the numbers. Eventually I'll add some steel parts to the rig and that will lower it too I'm sure.
