ACK! I cooked my trans fluid- *PICS*

[SCW]

'92 with AW4-

OK, last week I towed my little trailer with a few hundred pounds in it over the canyons to go camping and then this week (should have been LAST week) I finally installed my tranny cooler. Today I got an engine light so I checked the trans fluid, it was low but I don't have any leaks that I could see. I pulled one line from the cooler I installed and let the engine run long enough to pump some fluid out to take a look, here is a pic of the fluid on the right compared to new fluid on the left

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/utahmom/Jeep/P1050324.jpg

Any suggestions? I washed the entire bottom of the Jeep today to try to pinpoint a leak, but came up completely empty. I did notice a spot on the ground where I parked at work yesterday that would place a leak near the middle or back end of the transmission, but I can't get it to leak again.

Suggestions?

[alfman]

When you added the trans cooler, did you top off the trans? Personaly I would change the fluid & see what it runs like. You may have to change the fluid a couple of times over the next couple of months as there is fluid retained in torque converter. You may luck out if it is not slipping. as far as the leak, give it a good run then park it on a large piece of cardboard. It should help you pinpoint the area it is leaking from.

[ABN146]

Same thing happened to me while pulling a small military jeep trailer in southern UT. I pulled the trans pan and put in a new filter since it needed one anyway and then I did several drain and fills to dilute the dark stuff. I will also drain and fill it every time I change my oil just to keep adding some new stuff to it. I would have gone to a shop and have them flush it and add new ATF but they insisted on putting in synthetic and so I came here and learned how to do it my self.

GoJeep has a good write up on changing the trans filter.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/

I just need to get a new fan clutch so I don't over heat when I head up into the high uinta area next month or the san rafel swell later on in the fall.

[lawsoncl]

If that's the original fluid, it looks pretty typical to me. Does it smell burnt? If not, just change it and don't worry about it. BTW, it's supposed to take Dexron IIe ATF.

[SCW]

If that's the original fluid, it looks pretty typical to me. Does it smell burnt? If not, just change it and don't worry about it. BTW, it's supposed to take Dexron IIe ATF.

Thanks all-

It's not original, I had the fluid replaced (but not power flushed) when I got it 10K miles ago, it now has 120K. Fluid doesn't have any odor that I can tell.

I'm more concerned with the error code (which AutoZone couldn't read and won't go away) and the leak which I can't reproduce. Isn't there an vent on this transmission? Maybe I got hot enough to blow out the vent? I'll be draining the trans fluid every week for a few weeks till it looks a little better, see how things go from there.

[Starscream]

BTW, it's supposed to take Dexron IIe ATF.
Isn't it supposed to take Dextron III ATF? What's the difference between the two?

Thanks all-

It's not original, I had the fluid replaced (but not power flushed) when I got it 10K miles ago, it now has 120K. Fluid doesn't have any odor that I can tell.

I'm more concerned with the error code (which AutoZone couldn't read and won't go away) and the leak which I can't reproduce. Isn't there an vent on this transmission? Maybe I got hot enough to blow out the vent? I'll be draining the trans fluid every week for a few weeks till it looks a little better, see how things go from there.
If you don't own one already, buy a maintenance book from Napa/AutoZone/Advance. Take your own codes and diagnose the problem. I don't know why the CEL would come on for low tranny fluid.

[SCW]

OK, I'm more and more sure that there is nothing wrong with the tranny. I hit 120K at the same time as the rest of this took place, is there a timer that sets off the "Maint Reqd" light at 120K?

Thanks-

[UNCC_99XJ]

The reason why they probably are not able to read the code is because you probably need a special scanner to pull the code off the AW4. I ran into a similar problem a while back when my Jeep decided it wanted to throw random codes at random times for no reason at all. I hooked up my dads very spohisticated DRO tool that does a digi read out, checks codes, clears them, pretty much everything but make coffee for you in the morning, and all it pulled was a "trans fault" When I looked up the code in my FSM it said something to the affect of a Aisin scanner to read the code.

I realize your jeep is OBD-I and mine's OBD-II, but i figured i'd share my experiences with the CEL light coming on for a tranny issue.

[acrid]

if you can't determine the code, i would change the fluid, and disconnect the battery long enough to reset the cpu, then see if the same code is popping up again. if not, you probably solved the problem. if it does, you'll know it as soon as you drive for a minute. my codes have cleared when i reset the cpu in the past after fixing the issue, no more codes, engine doesn't see the problem.

acrid.

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.


Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) - IMPORTANT! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
OR
17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
- check computer, connections
31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
OR
32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
OR
32 (1990-92) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80's models if you don't have air conditioning)
34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
OR
34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
OR
35 idle switch motor fault - check connections
36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed
OR
part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89)
OR
solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only)
OR
Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
OR
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
OR
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
OR
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor.
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55 End of codes
61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure


google is your friend, learn to use it.

[corbinafly]

OK, I'm more and more sure that there is nothing wrong with the tranny. I hit 120K at the same time as the rest of this took place, is there a timer that sets off the "Maint Reqd" light at 120K?

Thanks-
Check engine light is not the same as maint required light. Maint light is on a timer to remind you that you should change your O2 sensor. Lotta guys just pull the bulb or cover the light with tape.

Kyung

[SanDiegoXJ]

Um, if you have an AW-4, you need to check the TCM (Transmission Control Module). It requires a DRB II scantool to scan. Good luck finding one tho. Dealer can do it tho if you don't mind paying $50 for a diag.

And as for the difference between the maintenance and CEL, cant tell ya...my jeep doesn't have the maint. light on it, just a CEL.

[lighthouse jim]

good post, acrid Thanks for doing my homework, too.

[Blaine B.]

I believe my 95 says Dexron 3 is required.

The 80' Oldsmobile says Dexron 2 but we just use 3...I suppose it is better and won't affect anything. Dexron 2 is the highest they probably had in 1980 so therefore they can't recommend something in the book back then that wasn't yet invented.

[falcon556]

'92 with AW4-
Suggestions?

Dump the fluid in the pan, reinstall plug.
Disconnect the line that goes from the cooler to the tranny, pour about 4 qts of oil in the pan, start the engine and start filling from the top and dumping from the bottom. Use a measured container to know how much you got out total and make sure you put that much in, when the fluid is clean you have flushed the old crap out.
It is important not to let the transmission get ahead of you, if you think more is coming out than going in, stop, catch up, continue.
To get an accurate reading take for a drive, get it hot, check.
I use Valvoline Max Life, it is supposed to have additives to keep the seals from hardening in older trannies. Transmission fluid level is very important.
YMMV

[Jeep914x4]

Check engine light is not the same as maint required light. Maint light is on a timer to remind you that you should change your O2 sensor. Lotta guys just pull the bulb or cover the light with tape.

Kyung

Yup, maint Light just comes on. You have to get a new module so it can just go off in a set ammount of miles again.

I left mine there. It's a reminder that this is a Jeep and there is always maintenance required!! It reminds me no to get on it tooooo much.:roflmao:

[anony91xj]

I doubt the dark-colored fluid alone caused a Check Engine light. Get the codes read...any reputable shop should be able to pull the codes on a 91-95 XJ with the Chryco OBD. AutoZone can't do it though, and those scanners are generally out of the price range of the backyard mechanic.

[acrid]

good post, acrid Thanks for doing my homework, too.

no prob... we all are here for a reason... might as well help out if i can, many have helped me, just trying to return the favor.:eeks1:

[1985xjlaredo]

If that's the original fluid, it looks pretty typical to me. Does it smell burnt? If not, just change it and don't worry about it. BTW, it's supposed to take Dexron IIe ATF.
Dont confus the poor guy they dont make that stuff anymore! USE Dextron III:doh:

[stewie]

Holly dead thread there 85!