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33's and stock steering

D

DurbElites

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Simi Valley
i have a d30 that is stock except for 4.10's its still open and i needed to see if the stock steering system will hold up for a little while until i get an agr setup in the front. i want to run 33x12.50 with a 4.5 lift and on 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing because my 31's look kind of dumb and i know about running 4.10's with 33's and i should have 4.56s but i cant afford it to regear again considering i just did these about 5000 miles ago and its a dd (mostly highway) i only pretty much see the sand if it is off road and i work so i cant really wheel it yet. so... is anyone running 33's on stock steering? and or 33's and 4.10's for mpg number estimates?
Or should i just stick with something like 32's instead of 33's
 
that helps i have always wanted a hydro assist and with the agr steering box i already have extra fittings so i dont have to do any custom work except the axel mounts. thanks any one else have any estimates on mpg with 4.10's and 33's
 
I've had 33s on stock steering for a couple years with no real problems. The only problem I've had was a bent tie rod while playing in rocks. I have an aussie in front too, so that doesn't help.
 
ok then that i wont have to worry about then. but what is the mileage with 4.10s and 33's? i have 31's and 4.10's now and i get about 16 so i dont want it to drop even lower because i am not a rich kid so money does matter. anyone else with either 33's or 32's and 4.10's and mileage????
 
33s stock draglink JKS 1430 cromo tie rod on 4.10 gears
moog tie rod ends I carry a couple spares never need them
also locked up front and it gets stressed in turning and has held up fine
plus parts are cheap for spares and can be found anywhere
I don't really check MPG but if i had to guess around 14
best upgrade for the tight budget is heavy tie rod ( JKS Big daddy offroad etc )and you will be fine
Tellico tested and no problems
as far as gears I like my 33s on 4.10s its not worth the money at least for me to shell out to regear compared to the saving in gas
it will take me years to make up the difference in gas savings
as far as the trail in low range and auto trans it is near perfect
 
I run 33's and 4.10's with a Manual transmission. I get about 20MPG highway and 14 city. On any given tank I average about 17-18MPG.

As for your steering, I killed my stock tie rod a while ago, replaced it with a goferit tie rod that's HUGE. I forget the dimensions but the rod is DOM, the inserts are PSC, and I have 1-ton dodge TRE's at the ends. No more trouble since then! Also for 33's I'd seriously think about reinforcing your steering box area if you haven't already. With 31's mine started to creek so I built my own version of the C-ROK plate and it's been silent ever since.
 
the steering i am going to get braces they are already on order so thats covered. and tre are being replaced with a otk steering system shortly after the tires. the main concern was with mileage and thanks for the info but unfortunately i dont have a manual with better mileage:cry:... anyone else with the 4.10 and 33's with an aw4?
 
I'm still running 3.55s with 33s with 4.0 AW4 and get around 15ish (about 18 highway). I know this isn't the best idea, but I will be regearing when I swap axles!
For referance, when I was running 31s I was getting around 18, when it was stock it was about 20.
 
ask around about 33's and 4.56's. i don't have any personal experience but ive heard its the best combo with an auto and its what i plan on gearing too very soon
 
I have a 5-speed, 3.07 stock gearing, and 33x12.50s and I am quite suprised at how good it is. I mean, I was torn between weather or not to get the tires, and then did figuring I could sell them if they didnt work out (I got them at a great price barely used) and probably make a profit off them if I were to sell them. but I digress. My steering seems to be doing fine, and I am running probably 18+ avg mpg. First couple days I had the tires I filled up before I got to half tank, and figured my mileage from there (multiplied shown mileage by 1.1 to compensate for larger tires, I heard it was 1.1 for 31" tires, but I figured I would give myself a lower estimate if anything since I wasnt sure of the exact # to multiply by) and I averaged probably 19-20+, some times upwards of 21mpg on the fill. This really suprised me and the only thing i can think of is that with the standard you can change your driving style and shift points according to what you need and stuff better than you can in an auto.
 
it helps alot with a manual and choosing shift points and i know about 4.56 and 33's but i figured i would have d44's by now with 4.88's but i dont so until then i am stuck with 4.10s and need to see about the mpg with an aw4 (auto) and 33's. or if i should just go to 32's to know for sure about having about the same mileage as i do now.
 
You'll be fine with 4.10's.
I've ran 33x12.5's on 3.55's for a little under a year now, and I dont really
get the best millage, around (just a guesse)14mpg, but it's really not that bad
And it's not like you'll lose all a lot of the tourqe you had with the 31's, it's still there, even for me with 3.55's I can burn a little rubber on hot day if I put my foot into it.

Oh and you said your thinking of going to 32's...Dont. Its not really worth buying a whole new set of tires just for an inch. Go with 33's or you'll regret it later when you re-gear and want bigger tires.
 
I had 33's with 4:10's for about 5 years on stock steering and wheeled Moab plenty with no problems, not even a bent tie rod. But I don't beat the hell outta my rig either (it's a dd). As for mileage alot of that depends on how heavy your foot is but I averaged 14-16 around town (lots of stop and go working around SLC area) and about 16-18 highway. Just went to 4:56's a week ago and am curious to see the difference... Oh and yes it's an auto (AW4)
 
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I know alot of y'all have been changing gears around and havent been from stock recently, and sorry for the hijack, but going from stock gearing with 33s to say 4.56s, i know there will be quite a big difference, but how much should I expect? and what would you recomend for someone who uses the rig as a DD with quite a bit of highway mileage and stuff? I know 4.56s are the recomended gearing for 33s, and that the 4.0 likes to rev high so mileage isnt killed with deeper gears, but I have a 2 hour commute to school (which I drive on occasion if I want to come home and right now I drive 40 min to work, a good amount of that at reasonable speeds (highway or 50+ mph streets) so I am looking primarily for good fuel economy, and to get some low end balls back for acceleration and wheeling. Still regear to 4.56s or maybe stick with 4.10s? I do admit I know if I go 4.10s i will probably give it a year or so and then regret not going with 4.56s, but I may be able to get axles with 4.10s cheap out of a friends old Jeep that might be getting junked. My only issue with this is its a 35 rear rather than the 8.25 I have now. From experience, should I just jump right to 4.56 or go 4.10 and see how I like it?

Scott
 
themangeraaad said:
I know alot of y'all have been changing gears around and havent been from stock recently, and sorry for the hijack, but going from stock gearing with 33s to say 4.56s, i know there will be quite a big difference, but how much should I expect? and what would you recomend for someone who uses the rig as a DD with quite a bit of highway mileage and stuff? I know 4.56s are the recomended gearing for 33s, and that the 4.0 likes to rev high so mileage isnt killed with deeper gears, but I have a 2 hour commute to school (which I drive on occasion if I want to come home and right now I drive 40 min to work, a good amount of that at reasonable speeds (highway or 50+ mph streets) so I am looking primarily for good fuel economy, and to get some low end balls back for acceleration and wheeling. Still regear to 4.56s or maybe stick with 4.10s? I do admit I know if I go 4.10s i will probably give it a year or so and then regret not going with 4.56s, but I may be able to get axles with 4.10s cheap out of a friends old Jeep that might be getting junked. My only issue with this is its a 35 rear rather than the 8.25 I have now. From experience, should I just jump right to 4.56 or go 4.10 and see how I like it?

Scott
Click to expand...

as to your Q: i ran 33x13.50 mts with stock gearing (3:55 i think w/ 4L auto) and got between 7 and 10 mpg for a couple of weeks before regearing to 4:56. now i get somewhere between 10 and 13 mpg. engine speed is about 2500rpms at 67mph.


as for the thread, i would suggest 4:56's. especially if you want that accl. back.

my .02 cents
 
holly $hit 10-13 thats rediculous with 33's and 4.56's how big is your foot? i have 4.10 and 31's with a 4.5 lift and i get about 16.5 to 18 and my buddy that has 35's and 4.56's get about 15.5 to 16. try a tune up and an o2 sensor if you have never changed it something sounds like your mileage sucks or your foot is lead filled and about 20 feet around in diameter.
 
DurbElites said:
holly $hit 10-13 thats rediculous with 33's and 4.56's how big is your foot?
try a tune up and an o2 sensor if you have never changed it something sounds like your mileage sucks or your foot is lead filled and about 20 feet around in diameter.
Click to expand...
X2!
Something else has to be going on, unless you floor it everywhere like a 16 yr old in thier first car! I have had 33s on 3.55s and get 15+ depending on driving style.
4.56s would bring it much closer to a stock ratio. You won't get as good of milage as stock due to the added drag, but it should be around 16-18?
 
33-12.50's, 6.5" of lift, 4.10 gears, locked, stock steering with an RE trackbar/mount, AW-4 and the critical piece that's been missing from the discussion, 4,600 pounds loaded.....I consistently get 17-18 mpg overall.

I averaged 17.2 going to Moab from Seattle last year averaging about 65 mph over some very high passes. Seemed like reasonable mileage for the situation and the setup.

As for the steering, stock is fine if it's in good condition and you recognize its limitations. For me it's the cheapest and easiest fuse to replace if something breaks. I would rather break a TRE than a knuckle, bend a stock tierod versus breaking something else.
 
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