A/C Compressor Clutch Bearing

My Compressor is making noise, so being the good reader.... I research.

I've got a '91 with what I believe to be a Sanden 709T compressor. At least that is what is marked on it.

My research led me to believe that I would need a 5001KFF bearing. This was confirmed by multiple threads here and the parts counters at O'Reilly's and Advanced Auto.

I get the bearing and tear apart my compressor... Well..... the old bearing is a heck of a lot smaller than the new bearing. Now I'm confused.....

The old bearing is marked with 35bd219du. I used my google voodoo and found out that it's dimensions are 55mm x 35mm x 20mm.... Considerably smaller than the 5001KFF.

I've got a replacement bearing of this size on order. ($90!!!!!!). The part # from O'Reilly's is 25212...

So my question is thus.... Is my compressor a freak or was this particular model just extremely rare?


/Never going back to Advanced Auto after being called a liar when I told the guy behind the counter that the 5001KFF would not work.....

Do you use the AC or are you just replacing because the noise when the pulley turns?
A bracket and pulley was made that bolted where the compressor goes and you don't have to re-route the belt. It should be a salvage yard or ebay find-and should be less than $90....if you don't want your AC.

Right now this is my DD... I definately want the A/C.....

everything I see shows the #25212 bearing fitting a Nippondenso 10PA17C compressor-- I do see Readi-Air part # 1961 cataloged for the Sanden 709 though. If yours is labled as a Sanden, you may want to check the availability of that one also-- gotta be less than $90! Heck, you could rent a car and steal the compressor for less than that------- I guess that would be wrong, though.
--Shorty:scottm:

They called you a liar at Advance?????

That's trange. The local Advance's staff is very helpful and kind.

Blaine B. said:

They called you a liar at Advance?????

That's trange. The local Advance's staff is very helpful and kind.

Click to expand...

X2^
I know Advance strives to provide legendary service, but unfortunately that's not how they want to do it! My local Advance has always gone out of their way to make me happy (but that might be because I'm the boss)-- I would like to apologise for the treatment you received at that location and if you would like to provide me with specifics, I will happily contact the store manager and help correct anything I can.
--Shorty

I'm not out to get anybody in trouble. It seemed like the kid was pretty new, and hadn't learned yet that the computer isn't always right.

thanx for the understanding-- I guess it just goes to prove the 'one bad apple' theory. If you ever feel that the service level at your location isn't up to expectation, I would recommend a friendly "for what it's worth" conversation with the store manager-- if he's worth his weight in tin foil, he will appreciate the opportunity to correct the problem-- too often a problem goes unnoticed and gets repeated from ignorance of it's existance (a loose/loose situation)
lemme know if you need anything
--Shorty

Right! If the "one bad apple" thing really kept....Apple and Microsoft would never be big corporations!

As a follow up. The bearing 25212 IS the correct bearing for the Sanden 709T compressor. All back together and running like a champ.

If anyone is also having this problem, I found new 35BD219DUK, a.k.a. Four Seasons 25212, bearings on e-bay for about $20 including shipping.

My '95 2.5L 4 cyl, SD709 compressor w/ serpentine belt also uses the smaller 55mm x 35mm x 20mm bearing. The 5001-KFF does NOT fit, too big, and now my Jeep is sitting with the clutch in pieces while I wait for a new bearing to come in the mail.

I have to return the 5001-KFF bearing to RockAuto, thats another PITA.

How hard is the bearing swap, Ive been putting off replacing mine for a while now. Do you need any special tools/pullers to get the bearing out? Is it doable with out removing the compressor fully from the jeep, can you leave the lines hooked up(no vac/charge)?

I keep going back and forth with replacing the compressor or just the clutch bearing.

i just got a new compressor off rockauto for about $200 mine needed it though, it was better than the 350 at autozone.

iwannadie said:

How hard is the bearing swap, Ive been putting off replacing mine for a while now. Do you need any special tools/pullers to get the bearing out? Is it doable with out removing the compressor fully from the jeep, can you leave the lines hooked up(no vac/charge)?

I keep going back and forth with replacing the compressor or just the clutch bearing.

Click to expand...

If the compressor is otherwise good, then just replace the pulley bearing. The service manual is available on Sanden's website. You have to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft, then the pulley comes off the front of the compressor snout after removing a snap ring. The bearing drives out the back side of the pulley but you have to grind away some little tabs of upset metal where the bearing is staked into the pulley. Best part of all is that you never have to discharge the system since the pulley is completely external to the compressor.

-Ed Rico

The Bearing for the Clutch is NOT a press in interference fit. It is a tight fit, that you have to tap out gingerly with a hammer. There must be different clutches on the Compressor, mine had a snap ring holding in the bearing, while Ed Rico's had tabs stamped down on the outer race to hold it in (thats how its done on my mini-van clutch). Might explain why the 5001-KFF bearing that is listed fits some, while others, like myself found the 5001-KFF doesn't fit and you need the smaller 35BD219DUK.

Like mentioned, the simplified procedure:

Before beginning, measure the Air Gap between plates, its set by shims, since your already taking it apart, you can adjust it for wear to the proper air gap by removing shims.

You need snap ring pliers, for inside & outside snap rings, you can usually find them for ~$10. Its worth the money, needle nose pliers in that tight spot will take several hours to get the snap rings out.

1.)Remove the Belt
2.)Remove the Bolt on the Front Plate of the Clutch (the clutch turns with the wrench, this is where an air impact wrench or socket is really handy)
3.)Pull/Pry the Front Plate off the clutch (this clutch has bolt hole for a small puller, other clutches I've just pried off with 2 flat head screw drivers on opposite sides, this clutch is very tight and I had to use excessive force to pry it off, I haven't put it back together yet [still waiting for the bearing to come in the mail] but its possible I've warped or damaged the front plate, so consider trying to find/use a puller if able)
3b.)Remove/Collect the shims between the compressor shaft and the front of the front plate of the clutch. (some will be inside the collar of the front plate some will be stuck on the front shaft of the compressor, some may have even fallen out and be on the ground)
4.)Remove the snap ring from the compressor snout that holds the clutch pulley on.
5.)Remove the pulley from the compressor snout. (other clutch I could just pull it off, again this one was tight, I had to gentle tap it off with a hammer at the back of the pulley, turn the pulley between strikes and be careful not to strike the electromagnet coil inside and at the back of the pulley).
6.)Remove the snap ring on the back of the pulley. (According to Ed his had stamped down tabs holding the bearing in, that had to be ground off)
7.)Remove the bearing, by tapping it out with a hammer using a drift. (since the bearing is bad, you don't have to worry about damaging)
8.)Install new bearing, by tapping it in with a hammer using a socket or drift. (only strike the outside race, if you strike the inside race the bearings will take all the shock and load and you can damage them. Either use a large socket that fits the outer race or get it started with a block of wood, then switch to drift moving it around to different parts of the outer race.)
9.)Install is the reverse of the removal.
10.)If your going to adjust the air gap, figure out how much has to be removed to get to the spec air gap, (I couldn't find a figure in the Haynes manual, but other clutches are about 0.020"-0.040") find a shim or several shims that match up to the feeler gauge for the distance that has be removed and then remove those shims from the stack. In my case, I just had 2 shims, and need to go down 0.020" to be at min air gap, as well the clutch was engaging fine before, so I'm just going to remove one shim, probably drop me 0.010", it will be in the center of the spec.

Awesome, thanks for the write up. Ill try doing the bearing and hold off on the compressor as it seems to work just fine. Worst case Ill replace the compressor later and have a new spare clutch bearing for it...

Greetings,
The part number in this post 35bd219du has been replaced by the Nachi 35BG05S10G-2DS. You can get this bearing from bearingsdirect.com for $28 plus $4 mail. In addition, if your bearing has just started making noise and you need to get by for a few days until you can get some parts, I did the following as a short term solution. Remove pully from compressor using directions in previous post. Without removing bearing from the pulley, and from the backside of pully use a pick to remove bearing seal. If you are careful to not damage the seal it can be reinstalled with little effort. clean the bearing with some spray parts cleaner and allow to dry. Pack the bearing with some grease. I used a industrial grease that I use on my motorhome u-joints and suspension. Just keep pressing grease into the bearing until you are comfortable that it is full. Put the seal back in place and reinstall the pulley and clutch. If you used a good moly based grease this should easily keep you going for a week or two. If you are having trouble getting the pully removed from the compressor, you can use a two jaw puller with a 24mm 3/8 drive socket placed over the compressor shaft to protect it. Do not press against the compressr shaft. I couldn't get under the back of the pully with my puller so I just pulled against the back sholder of the rear belt groove. I came off very easy. Also, take care when putting the clutch back on, since it will probably have a thick index spline, and only installs in one position. I coated all the surfaces of the bearing, shaft, and clutch with Blaster Penetrant and wiped away all of the rust coating to make assembly easier.
If you have a good working ac system the bearing can be replaced using the instruction is the previous post and save you a few hundred bucks.
Good Luck.

I actually just did this fix as my bearing was shot. A local NSK dealer was able to get me a replacement bearing with the same number as stamped on the OEM bearing. But it was $40.

The fix is pretty simple, and a hell of a lot cheaper than a new clutch, or compressor.

Just a tip, I used a large bearing to tap the pulley on after replacing the bearing, and then used the inner race from the old bearing to bottom it out so I could get the snap ring back in.

Watch those shims when you take off the clutch plate, they are small and walk off easily.

Eric

This looks good...its the exact bearing you need?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0571973905&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESOX:IT