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Renix Harness Plugs

Only In A Jeep XJ

Only In A Jeep XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Greenville, Texas
In the proccess of installing my new stroker I've found the the section of harness for the coolent sensor, knock sensor, and O2 sensor is burned up. I'm guessing it's from the exhaust. Now the problem, Chrysler has discontinued the harness and does not offer the plugs to patch my harness. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the plugs? Already searched the local auto parts don't really wana go the salvage way unless it is the last resort.
 
I believe the coolant sensor (the one in the side of the engine block, yes?) takes a two-pole Delco Weatherpack, the HEGO sensor takes a three-pole Weatherpack, and the knock sensor actually uses the same plug as you find on the fuel injectors.

When rebuilding that harness, use some metal foil to wrap around the leads from the knock sensor to prevent crosstalk and false knock signals - or your timing will end up fully retarded. While not done in OEM, I would go so far as to have the foil not only wrapped around the leads all the way up, but even have a lead from the foil extended to the chassis ground (which should have been done - but wasn't, I think.)
 
Only In A Jeep XJ said:
In the proccess of installing my new stroker I've found the the section of harness for the coolent sensor, knock sensor, and O2 sensor is burned up. I'm guessing it's from the exhaust. Now the problem, Chrysler has discontinued the harness and does not offer the plugs to patch my harness. Can anyone point me in the right direction for the plugs? Already searched the local auto parts don't really wana go the salvage way unless it is the last resort.
Click to expand...

In a pinch you could hit radio shack online or some other online electronics parts house for some kind of standard 2 and 3 pin male/female connector combo and just replace both ends. I just bought some used harnesses as they turned up here and ebay and choopped off the connectors I needed and spliced then into mu old harness. I have also seen some 2 and three pin newer style connectors in the help sections (motormight brand ?) of the parts stores that might work if you can find both ends (M/F). The trick is getting good water tight style connectors.
Here is one possiblity:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/catview.php?SearchField=8
 
You should be able to find Weatherpack connectors and the old-style Bosch fuel injector connectors at your local, in the HELP! section, as ecomike said (it is Motormite, but they were bought out by Dorman a few years ago. I try to keep up with the parts market...)

They're reasonably standard connectors, but you won't find mates for them at RS. You can probably find Molex connectors at RS, but I wouldn't use them that low on the engine. Don't forget the foil for the Knock sensor leads - try a radio supply house (like Ham Radio Outlet) for copper shielding foil - but you can use aluminum foil in a pinch - just make sure the leads are fully covered.
 
5-90 said:
I believe the coolant sensor (the one in the side of the engine block, yes?) takes a two-pole Delco Weatherpack, the HEGO sensor takes a three-pole Weatherpack, and the knock sensor actually uses the same plug as you find on the fuel injectors.

When rebuilding that harness, use some metal foil to wrap around the leads from the knock sensor to prevent crosstalk and false knock signals - or your timing will end up fully retarded. While not done in OEM, I would go so far as to have the foil not only wrapped around the leads all the way up, but even have a lead from the foil extended to the chassis ground (which should have been done - but wasn't, I think.)
Click to expand...
I have never had a knock sensor hooked up on mine, but as I recall the connector is the same as the fuel injector, but it also has that aluminum foil wrap and even a ground wire with it?

Where, how does it pick up noise, cross talk? Would twisted wire pairs like we use in computer data cables work just as well, with just one end of the thrid wire grounded (like we do in process control / Data aq. systems)?

Could not having a knock sensor hooked up to my open ended knock sensor connector be causing my timing to be retarded?

Both these online links seem to work:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/

www.motormite.com
 
Last edited:
Ecomike said:
I have never had a knock sensor hooked up on mine, but as I recall the connector is the same as the fuel injector, but it also has that aluminum foil wrap and even a ground wire with it?

Where, how does it pick up noise, cross talk? Would twisted wire pairs like we use in computer data cables work just as well, with just one end of the thrid wire grounded (like we do in process control / Data aq. systems)?

Could not having a knock sensor hooked up to my open ended knock sensor connector be causing my timing to be retarded?
Click to expand...

The knock sensor being disconnected would not effect your base timing - it only generates a signal when something is wrong. Timing is retarded in response to that signal - if there's no signal, timing is not retarded.

The OEM harness has a copper shielding foil wrapped around it, so it's wise to replace it.

As far as crosstalk, I've noted that the Knock sensor leads are wrapped right up to the bulkhead plug (the one over the brake booster,) but I'd have to take one apart to see if it's actually grounded OEM. It should be, but it probably isn't (damn beancounters.)

Yes, it could pick up noise through crosstalk and inductive coupling - not so much from a steady-state charge running through a neighbouring conductor, but from any "surges" that might be running nearby. A surge would induce a momentary change in the magnetic field, which would generate a spurious signal in the Knock sensor leads, which would resut in a retardation of timing.

If you really don't want to run the knock sensor, and you don't plan on installing one, you could just clip the wires from the bulkhead connector and set them aside. If you think you might put a knock sensor back in, it's possible to strip the leads out of the subharness and tie them aside in a coil (which will also help to kill spurious signals - as a sort of "choke.")

Using UTP would probably work as well - it works for 100MBit and Gigabit Ethernet. I've just not tried it myself...
 
5-90 said:
The knock sensor being disconnected would not effect your base timing - it only generates a signal when something is wrong. Timing is retarded in response to that signal - if there's no signal, timing is not retarded.

The OEM harness has a copper shielding foil wrapped around it, so it's wise to replace it.

As far as crosstalk, I've noted that the Knock sensor leads are wrapped right up to the bulkhead plug (the one over the brake booster,) but I'd have to take one apart to see if it's actually grounded OEM. It should be, but it probably isn't (damn beancounters.)

Yes, it could pick up noise through crosstalk and inductive coupling - not so much from a steady-state charge running through a neighbouring conductor, but from any "surges" that might be running nearby. A surge would induce a momentary change in the magnetic field, which would generate a spurious signal in the Knock sensor leads, which would resut in a retardation of timing.

If you really don't want to run the knock sensor, and you don't plan on installing one, you could just clip the wires from the bulkhead connector and set them aside. If you think you might put a knock sensor back in, it's possible to strip the leads out of the subharness and tie them aside in a coil (which will also help to kill spurious signals - as a sort of "choke.")

Using UTP would probably work as well - it works for 100MBit and Gigabit Ethernet. I've just not tried it myself...
Click to expand...
Let's see if I understood that. Even though the two wires are open on the end of knock sensor wiring (not attached to a sensor), they could still pick up a stray signal that the ECU would see?

Not sure I followed the strip the ends and coil them up part. Why strip the ends? Do I attach them to each other? Ground them, or wrap them into separate open coils? Or did miss it entirely?
 
Last edited:
Ecomike said:
Let's see if I understood that. Even though the two wires are open on the end of knock sensor wiring (not attached to a sensor), they could still pick up a stray signal that the ECU would see?

Not sure I followed the strip the ends and coil them up part. Why strip the ends? Do I attach them to each other? Ground them, or wrap them into an opene coil? Or did miss it entirely?
Click to expand...

Not "strip the wires" as individuals - strip them out of the harness (remove just those two wires) and either cut or wrap. You can wrap them into an open coil to choke the signals that the terminal end may pick up, and even go so far as to wrap the connector in foil. No need to modify the wires - just get them out of the way.

Yes, an open connector can still pick up a signal through crosstalk, but it's far less likely. However, if you have them coiled up out of the way (I'd say about a 3" ID coil,) the signal would still have to travel along the wire, and the wires being coiled would "choke" the signal.

Sorry - when you talk about "stripping wire," you're talking about baring the ends for termination. Whe you talk about "stripping harness," you're just separating wiring that is, for the moment, unused. Thus, the confusion. I probably should have explained it a bit better...
 
Thanks,

Mine was/is already separated (LOL) from the main harness so until I decide to install and try a knock sensor I will wrap it with fresh alluminium foil, coil it up and before I do either I will roll them into a twisted pair if they are already not a twisted pair. Been wondering about this issue for quite some time, it just never came up until now.

Thanks!



5-90 said:
Not "strip the wires" as individuals - strip them out of the harness (remove just those two wires) and either cut or wrap. You can wrap them into an open coil to choke the signals that the terminal end may pick up, and even go so far as to wrap the connector in foil. No need to modify the wires - just get them out of the way.

Yes, an open connector can still pick up a signal through crosstalk, but it's far less likely. However, if you have them coiled up out of the way (I'd say about a 3" ID coil,) the signal would still have to travel along the wire, and the wires being coiled would "choke" the signal.

Sorry - when you talk about "stripping wire," you're talking about baring the ends for termination. Whe you talk about "stripping harness," you're just separating wiring that is, for the moment, unused. Thus, the confusion. I probably should have explained it a bit better...
Click to expand...
 
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