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Where to buy new flywheel?

ptf18

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
Im looking for a NEW flywheel for a '88 Cherokee with the 4.0l engine and the BA transmission...any recomendations?
 
I tried to find a flywheel several years ago for my 94 4.0l with an AX15. The only place I found one was the stealership. No problem finding flexplates for an auto trans. Hope you've got better luck.
 
Check with your local - I'm fairly sure that Pioneer/Barnes makes one that works with RENIX. I know I bought one in the aftermarket, but that was a few years ago...

It's not like a flywheel is anything difficult to make - although the XJ version gets a little dicey, because the teeth for the CPS have to be either machined or cast...
 
Stupid question.....why are you looking for a flywheel?
 
Lost the INTERNAL slave cylinder that should have been replaced 20k ago when I had a shop replace the clutch (always do my own work but thought Ild let a "pro" do it) I got the car bar and found the pedal had to go nearer to the floor to engage/disengage the clutch....

Yeah they turned the flywheel...Now I read that turing is a no..no as there is NO WAY to adjust the "wear" that got put into the "new" clutch job when the flywheel was turned....

So while Im in the clucth I thought Ild install a new flywheel.......Should I assume it comes with a pilot bearing...

Any ideas who handles "NEW" flywheels?
 
As I'd said, Pioneer/Barnes. Most local parts houses should be able to source them for you.

A pilot bearing/bushing will come with a clutch kit, or will come separately if you need one. As I recall, it's more of a bushing than a bearing.

Flywheels that are machined with a "step up" or a "step down" to the friction surface should not be machined - but flywheels which are machined flat should pose no particular trouble. That's a simple grinding job - nothing more.

Oh - the difference between a "professional" and an "amateur" is just a paycheque - nothing more. A "professional" does something because he is paid to do it - an "amateur" does something because he enjoys it.

This results in many amateurs excelling professionals at the task at hand. Sometimes, you run into an amateur mechanic who turned professional - the best of both worlds. They get paid to do something they enjoy doing. These individuals are rare - and you should foster a good relationship with them when you find them.

When it comes to skill, use the words "novice" and "expert" - if we're all going to use the language, let's all use it the same way. The mass media has done a wonderful job of corrupting English, and I find myself swimming upstream trying to reverse their work every day... If I hear the word "tragedy" misused on the news again, I'm going to shoot somebody...
 
The reason I asked about why a new flywheel is that you can resurface the flywheel. Yes the clutch will disengage further down the stroke. You can fix that with a different master cylinder. I bought a Howes Racing cylinder with a 7/8" diameter. The stock is 3/4". You have to take your old cylinder, whack off the end that goes to the pedal, then braze it into a coupling nut. You end up with an adjustable master cylinder that has a stainless steel bore and can be rebuilt for less than $10. The new master cylinder runs about $50.

It worked great. The increased volume due to the larger bore increases the clutch force a bit, but it really isn't noticable. It does allow the slave to push further with the same pedal travel. They have 3/4" bores as well and they would probably work just as well with the adjuster. The coupling nut and jamb nut came from my local hardware store. I ran this for several years before converting to an automatic.

XJ master cylinders are notorious for crapping out. The Howe unit is a great replacement anyway.

howeMC.jpg
 
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Could you install a stainless steel shim between the flywheel and crank the thickness of whatever was removed from the surfacing of the flywheel?
 
Easier would be to install a shim behind the slave cylinder.
 
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