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Neutral Switch Bypass

Onkover

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Red Bluff CA.
I wasn't sure if were this really belonged so I put it here.

I'm running a 92' XJ w/4.0 AW4auto. I needed to know how to bypass the Neutral Safety switch. Can anyone advise me on what colors to jump or how to do this? Can it even be done?
 
I'm not sure why you would want to bypass the NSS. On a manual, we bypass the clutch interlock so we can start in gear to save the clutch. Bypass the NSS to do the same thing, and your starting the engine with the clutch packs engaged and no hydro pressure. Quickly burn up the trans. Not the desired outcome.

Whats your purpose? if the NSS is not working, here's a link to how to rebuild it:

http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm
 
I hard a vary hard time removing the switch. In the process the thread tabs broke off and the rear of the plastic case cracked. This unit is not rebuildable. I had a new one and was having even bigger issues getting in on the shift rail. IN the process I damaged this NEW unit. REbuilding is not a option.
 
OK! Now we're getting somewhere! You broke the FIRST COMMANDMENT.

In the famed words of the great Sergent-Major Aruda; "Don't F**k it up,.."

This is gonna' to sound cheesy: Get a Haynes manual for your jeep.

To answer the original question: As you look into the end of the connector, it is an 8-prong connector, right? Hold it with the locking tab up and look at the end. The bottom center pair have continuity when the vehicle is in park or neutral.
Now the BAD news. In reverse the lower right and upper left pins have continuity. When in "3" the bottom right and top center right pins have continuity. In "1-2" the bottom right and top far right pins have continuity.

I don't think the trans will operate properly if you just leave the switch out and jumper the 2 terminals. The computer's gonna' think the rig is in "park/neutral" all the time.

Now here's a maybe-fix for the switch. While your out getting a Haynes manual, buy a packet of J-B Kwik weld(it's in an orange packet, not the red one) As long as you didn't damage the internals, anything on the switch case can be patched/repaired, or flat out re-built out of this stuff. It will set in about 3 minutes. Just get all the grease/oil off the parts, sand smoth plastic to roughen the surface, and you can fix about anything. The hardest repairs I've done with this are a water pump mounting ear, and replaced about 3/4 inch square peice chipped off a front case for an AMC-304(on top thru to expose the cam gear). 5 years later both parts are still in service.

(Really, get a manual. I mean it. No sarcasm here. It's basic, but has a lot of little tips and info you can use. Example: I got the pin layout for you out of MY Haynes manual. It's open on the desk in front of me to page 7B-5. It also has a detailed explaination on how to line everything up to get that bastard back in there.)
 
A thread within the past month or so has the diagram for the plug that you can use to bypass the switch. The otherwise mostly useless Chilton's also has the diagram.
 
I do have a Chilton. I just didn't think to look for a way to bypass it in there being it is a "Safety" item. I may get a Haynes manual just to cross reference things.

I bit the bullet and had Kargen price match a new one. If I can figure how to get the thing to go on without needing to drop the tranny is another story. I think the shaft is misshaped or something because according to the Chilton it should just pull right off after I remove the hardware. The new one should push right on. I soaked it all in PB and WD40 the last time I swapped them and still took alot to get the old one off and the used one on.
 
Onkover said:
I do have a Chilton. I just didn't think to look for a way to bypass it in there being it is a "Safety" item. I may get a Haynes manual just to cross reference things.

I bit the bullet and had Kargen price match a new one. If I can figure how to get the thing to go on without needing to drop the tranny is another story. I think the shaft is misshaped or something because according to the Chilton it should just pull right off after I remove the hardware. The new one should push right on. I soaked it all in PB and WD40 the last time I swapped them and still took alot to get the old one off and the used one on.

What happens here is that the aluminum shaft of the switch, through which the steel shaft coming out of the transmission passes, corrodes and sticks. The nut on the switch clamps the weak aluminum shaft over the steel one like a chuck. If you're not careful, you'll break it prying it off, as I guess you found out. If you try to spread the aluminum jaws they will simply snap off. The best way I've found of doing it is to take the bolt and the nut off, and then try to take advantage of the little bit of end play in the transmission shaft, by prying the switch outward as far as you can without breaking it, putting something behind it to hold it there (flat stick, piece of metal, etc), and then gently striking the end of the transmission shaft with a brass hammer or the like. The hope is that this will break the corrosion bond enough to finish the job, but it might take a while, and you must be very careful. If you work slowly, you can usually get it, though you might actually have to push the switch back down on the shaft, and go back and forth repeatedly until it starts to move more freely.

Once you have the old one off, it's easy enough to clean up the shaft and put the new one on (with plenty of anti-seize this time).

In the meantime you can bypass the NSS for emergency use or for testing whether it is really at fault for a no-start condition, by one of two methods. The first is to pull out the start relay from the under hood power distribution center, find terminal 30 of that relay, take a piece of relatively thin stranded wire, like what's in wiring harnesses, and stick it into the corresponding socket of the pdc. Run the other end of that wire to any convenient ground. Now jam the start relay back in over that piece of wire, and you have bypassed the NSS.

The other alternative is to bypass it at the connector. If you look at the connector head-on, with the clip at the top, the two pertinent terminals are the two at the bottom center, which are identified either as C and B or 7 and 6. One should go via a brown/yellow wire to the start relay, and the other via a black/tan wire to ground. Either bridge that connection or ground terminal C and you'll bypass. If you were doing this as a modification for some reason you could even splice into the brown/yellow wire and put in a switch to ground.
 
I have a local group running all this weekend have just trying to make the run.

IN bypassing the swich I have found a solid yellow and a brown and white. NO i am not color blind!! lol
I did however cut the balck and the blk/white wires. Put in a toggle and fired it up. It ran. Then I shut it down and fipped the switch to the off postion and it would not fire up. I then turned the switch back on and fired it up. My Jeep has a slight difference in the idle speed when in gear and when not in grear. Don't know why this has to do with the NSS but with the Jeep running I het the swich. This is now telling the computer that it is in gear and the idle does just as it should.

Long story short I have bypassed the switch by installing a manual switch. Does anyone think with will do any harm till I get the new part in> ordered it today.
 
Just thought that I'd add a pic of what I did to bypass the switch.

post-32-1176828253.jpg


Not all that convenient buy also functioned as a anti theift device when the toggle is turned off. This mod may get someone off the trail or running back and forth to work till you can replace the unit but did have a small downfall. This might have been due to the NSS not actually being attached to my tranny at the time. I found that if you drop the tranny into 1-2 it goes there. It does not funtion as normal being the computer had no idea I dropped it into 1-2. It would shift at low RPMS till it trys to go into 3rd, then it downshifts HARD into 1st. I only tested this while in 4lo. Also it would start in gear. For saftey sake only turn on the switch when starting the engine and turn it right off before driving away.
I did get a new NSS and took a flat file to the shift shaft to make it slide on and off easier. The new one is installed but now I know a quick way to bypass the NSS for future refrence
 
Last edited:
Matthew Currie said:
In the meantime you can bypass the NSS for emergency use or for testing whether it is really at fault for a no-start condition, by one of two methods. The first is to pull out the start relay from the under hood power distribution center, find terminal 30 of that relay, take a piece of relatively thin stranded wire, like what's in wiring harnesses, and stick it into the corresponding socket of the pdc. Run the other end of that wire to any convenient ground. Now jam the start relay back in over that piece of wire, and you have bypassed the NSS.


Matthew, i just tried this method. I used a small gauge wire to the relay terminal 30, inserted the relay and when i went to ground it to engine block (where - cable from batt runs to bracket holding ign coil) it arced good. Any ideas? I'm diagnosing a no start on my 94.
 
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