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New gears/locker, are the seals damaged?

ZachMan

ZachMan

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Memorial Lifetime Member
Location
Birmingham, AL
I got my d30 geared/locked today (Precison gears/ Aussie locker) and I drove it home from the shop about 15 miles and saw this:

pinion.jpg


knuckle.jpg


knuckle2.jpg


Now none of the seals felt wet, I thought it was just stains from when the did the install. I know they have to pull the shafts and installed the master install. Only thing is the driverside axle seal seems to still be weeping a little bit. I called the shop and he said they will leak a little for a few days from the fluid getting pushed out the tubes and to just keep an eye on it. He said they will fix me up if a seal is broken though. He seemed confident that what I explained was normal though so I dunno :rolleyes:

EDIT: I also had a rockcrusher cover installed that has a high fill plug, wonder if it was over filled?
 
Pretty hard to say since neither you or the installer cleaned and painted the axle prior to the install.Always keep your rig spotless,it makes troubleshooting easy!This is what it should look like!
d30%20s%20mounts.jpg
 
Mine did the same thing, I've read (on the internet, so it MUST be true) that the D30 doesn't need oil all the way to the plug. A lot of people/shops mistakenly overfill it. The extra may leak past the seals.

If the level gets more than 1/2 inch down, I might worry, but not til then...

Two cents...

Robert

(By the way, RCP, you're a showoff!)
 
Thanks,

Nope not painting my axle, if you can't tell the lower knuckles are wet you're blind. BTW I think its easier to see fresh oil on a brown dirt stained axle than a glossy black one.
 
it may be true that if overfilled it will leak past the seals,
not sure thats good tho
-bc what if you park on a 10% x-slope for a while does that mean half of your gear oil is gonna run out the seal onto the ground??

check the fluid level for a couple days if you can still touch it w/ your finger it'll be ok -i guess..

guessin you already called the shop & said "wtf?"

you could clean off the oil residue with brake parts cleaner and drive it and see if its still leaky...
 
JLane99XJ said:
it may be true that if overfilled it will leak past the seals,
not sure thats good tho
-bc what if you park on a 10% x-slope for a while does that mean half of your gear oil is gonna run out the seal onto the ground??

check the fluid level for a couple days if you can still touch it w/ your finger it'll be ok -i guess..

guessin you already called the shop & said "wtf?"

you could clean off the oil residue with brake parts cleaner and drive it and see if its still leaky...
Click to expand...

It was ORC, Keith said it'd leak some, but my driverside is more than some...it left a puddle about 8" in diam next to my tire this morning. He said it would leak enough to barely fill the bottom of a cup :doh: I wiped off everything with a rag, it not hard at all to tell its leaking:gag:

They will fix it, but he said to give it the weekend to see if it stops.
 
mine did that too, I think oil/grease leaks past as you pull out the axles, so any left in the tube when you put axles back in find its way out. I wouldnt worry to much if it stops in a day or so!
 
lazarus said:
mine did that too, I think oil/grease leaks past as you pull out the axles, so any left in the tube when you put axles back in find its way out. I wouldnt worry to much if it stops in a day or so!
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what the shop said, which makes sense, but when the driverside leaks 5x more than the pass. side I wonder. I'll give it the weekend. :anon:
 
I've pulled my shafts about 30 times and never seen that much oil leak..

In fact, I blew a seal and didn't see that much oil leak.. :)
 
just .02 on painting axles - i agree that cleaning and painting them is a good idea - but ANY color but black. black makes it too hard to see leaks, cracks, etc. Personally I like yellow :)
 
That looks like another high quality professional job to me. :passgas: I would fire the fool that turned out crap looking work like that...make you wonder how clean the INSIDES are....and.....the seals are whacked....most likely still
the originals.
 
My last ujoint swap I pulled the axles without draining the fluid first, like a idiot not knowing, and for about 3 days after it leaked out of the tube still. After about 2 cans of brake and parts cleaner(cleaning it every chance I got) and 3 days it finially stopped. I would get about a tablespoon or more each day till the last which was about half that, on the ground with a spot about 5-7" in dia on a epoxied floor.

I would pull back the outer dust/rock shield on the axle, spray about a half can of brake and parts cleaner with the tube as far in the tube as poss, and let it drain in to a pan, and wipe it clean on the knuckle, each day for the next say 2 days or so. If after the 4th day its still leaking then they f'ed the seals up.

as for the pinion seal, it should not leak a drop.
 
When i had my gears done the i had the same leak, they f'ed the shaft install ie:not careful putting the shaft back in or not lubing the seal or shaft splines for a nice lubed entry (hehe), or they didn't change the seals (that was the problem i had).

Quote-"he said they will leak a little for a few days from the fluid getting pushed out the tubes." WTF?:huh: -B
 
A PROFESSIONAL shop would have swabbed out the tubes....that would
eliminate the possibility of the lube coming from when the axles were pulled.
 
hehe... this thread is a bit entertaining...
painted axles.... my left ass cheek, what a waste of time. especially if you expect a shop to do that on a regear. Yes some fluid can stay in the tube. not everyone hoses out the inside of the tube. but thats the dumbass shop for pulling the shafts before popping the cover. so it can be expected. At the very least I usually try and push a rag through. if its caked with dirt and grime then I run a wire wheel through the tube and then push a rag thru. The seals should be replaced everytime a regear is done on a front D30. Thats why Randy's puts seals into the install kit. But on the shops part, cheap insurance is to replace the seals and clean out the tubes. inspect and clean all sealing surface and maybe even use a light dab of RTV on the seal to housing surfaces. As a gear installer, I don't like having to take a front end appart just to replace a stupid tube seal. So if I'm not changing the tube seal then I better have a damn good reason for not doing so. like the shafts and tubes were in emaculate condition.
 
Well morning #2 and there is a bigger spot this time, it seems where ever I go (to work or a firends or my house) it will elak enough to drop a spot onto the ground 6-10" in dia. So it definately FUBAR. I'll be getting new seals put in for fre (durh) this week and I'll make sure to tell him to clean out my seal ara and tubes.

The shop I went ot is supposedly the best in the area, but I guess the yrush on the "little guys" screw that for $337.
 
Have you checked the level in the diff? Just out of curiosity. Cause really, it wouldn't take much oil to make a spot 6" across...

Robert
 
I_1BADXJ_I said:
Have you checked the level in the diff? Just out of curiosity. Cause really, it wouldn't take much oil to make a spot 6" across...

Robert
Click to expand...

No but its got enough I'm sure since its a rockcrusher diff (fill hole is hiiigh). It just shouldn't be leaking so bad , hell at all. I was told by the shop owner it "may" leak enough to fill the bottom of a cup, heck I got that much inside the bottom of my knuckle everytime I drive the thing, lol.
 
ZachMan said:
No but its got enough I'm sure since its a rockcrusher diff (fill hole is hiiigh). It just shouldn't be leaking so bad , hell at all. I was told by the shop owner it "may" leak enough to fill the bottom of a cup, heck I got that much inside the bottom of my knuckle everytime I drive the thing, lol.
Click to expand...

dont supose you took the advise that I gave and used a can of brake and parts cleaner to spray out the tube? Mine leaked alot after I pulled the bone head move of pulling the shafts adn not draining it first. You haven said anything that makes be believe that you could save yourself more down time and even gain a little experience for only 3$ of your $ adn about 10 min of your time.

Good luck either way.
 
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