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Sanden Compressor/AC question...

5-90

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hammerspace
I've been digging around on this for a while, and I've not seen an answer yet - and I'm starting to wonder (oddly enough,) if I'm trying to reinvent the wheel here...

I've got RENIX rigs with Sanden SD50x compressors (SD505? SD507?) and aircon systems that are AFU. I'd like to repair and convert at least a couple - while R134a can work, I'm really looking at Freeze12, which is somewhat more promising.

Here's the catch - I'm trying to find REPLACEMENT service fittings, not adapters. I tried adapters with R134a on one system, and I wasn't happy with them interfering with each other. Has anyone had any luck trying to find something like this?

I'd like to use the Freeze12 since it works at similar head pressures to R12, and can use the same oil (it's compatible with both the Ester and PAG oils,) but this fitting thing is driving me nuts - N-V-T-S - nuts. I can't be the only one looking for something like this, and someone's got to make the thing, I'd think.

I'm also not sure which compressor came OEM in the RENIX - was it the SD505?

5-90
 
That may be a problem... the most common service fitting fro MVAC are the ones for R-12, and R-134a, and you can get them from the manufacturer... But almost all the places I deal with no longer have a stock for R-12 Service fittings, but you may find some over sea where R-12 is still used.... but you'll have to get an adapter fitting for freeze 12... I would recommend a different R-12 replacement as Freeze 12 has problem with oil transportation, and it can cause a shorter life.. I would recommend R-406a(AutoFrost)... it also is a r-12 Replacement... I have used it in all my older MVAC systems that came with R-12 at start, and it had worked wonders for me...

Heres a website about the oil Transportion stuff... It will give you a good idea what I am talking about... http://www.autofrost.com/oil/index.html
 
Intriguiing - I didn't know that.

How difficult is it to get certified with R406a - have you taken the test yet? Considering I'll be needing to do AT LEAST three conversions, I'd like to save on labour by doing it myself (even factoring in buying the tools, I'll still come out ahead on conversion and service...) One reason for looking at Freeze12 was simple - available to the enduser without having to take another test...

5-90
 
You want replacement fittings and NOT adapters? Then you've already seen these? http://autorefrigerants.com/co00031.htm When I converted the system in my Toyota (and my GF's Acura) to Freeze 12, I added 3ozs of esther oil to the system and just charged it with a universal side can tap through the original R12 fittings. I know that by law you're supposed to change the fittings and affix a label but it's for my own personal use (I won't tell anyone if you don't). I have been very pleased with the performance (much colder than the R134A I had in there before that caused my compressor to leak) I read the article on oil migration but, as always, it seems like another "why ours is better than theirs" test. I've been running it for about 2yrs now (I never turn it off, it's so hot here now) and haven't had any issues. Just my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth---------Hans
 
To get certified is not very expensive... it's $20 dollars, and you can take the test online at the EPA website.... And as soon as you take the test it will let you print out a temporary card so you can start buying it right away... you can use the temp card till you get the real one in the mail.

Test Site http://www.epatest.com/http://www.epatestsite.com


I get my stuff from http://www.refrigerantsales.com/ for R-406a... they have the retrofit adapters from the move from R-12 to R406a....

Here is a FAQS for R-406a


Phone:​
800-424-3836

MONROE AIR TECH, INC
522 W. 2nd St.
Bloomington, IN 47403​
Fax: 800-691-4996
Autofrost​
TM / Autofrost X4TM R-12 Replacement Q & A’s

Q. What is Autofrost refrigerant?​
A.​
Autofrost is a blend of refrigerants R-22, R- 142b, and a small amount (4%) of R-600a, that is a substitute refrigerant for R-12 in
stationary and automotive A/C systems. The 4% R-600a aids in returning the mineral oil to the compressor and is such a small amount,
that Autofrost stays non-flammable. Even after worst case leaking and recharging Autofrost still has no “flash point” and will not sustain
a flame. No oil change is needed. Autofrost was invented by George H. Goble (GHG) and is marketed by Monroe Air Tech
(1-800-424-3836).
Q.
What is Autofrost X4 and how is it different from Autofrost?

A.​
Autofrost X4 is very similar to Autofrost. It consists of R-22, R- 142b, R-124 and a small amount of R-600a (to provide a good mineral
oil return). Autofrost X4 is basically Autofrost with a small amount of R- 124 added and is also non-flammable. Suction pressures are the
same as Autofrost and the head pressure will be slightly higher, about 5 PSI higher at 130 degrees F condensing temperature. This blend
also carries a UL listing ( Underwriters Laboratories ).
Q.
Are these products legal to use?

A. Yes.​
Autofrost and Autofrost X4 have been found “acceptable” by the E. P. A. and was printed in the Federal Register on October 16,
1996.
Q.
Does this refrigerant have to be charged as a liquid?

A. Yes.​
This refrigerant and all other zeotropic blends (R-400
Autofrost/Autofrost X4 are supplied in 25 lb. cylinders which
inverting the cylinder.
Q.
Should I always vacuum the system before charging?

series) must be charged as a liquid to prevent change in composition.
contain a “pickup tube” to withdraw the product as a liquid without​
A. Air and moisture will not condense and will cause excessive high side pressures! This
especially the hoses.​
Always pull a vacuum at 29.9 inches of mercury for at least 30 minutes before
Q.
How much Autofrost/Autofrost X4 do I need to charge in?

can cause damage to the system,​
charging, 45 min. to 1hr is better.​
A.​
If you are using scales to weigh it, then use 80% of the R-12 weight amount. If you are using a liquid charging cylinder such as
DIAL-A-CHARGE
TM, use the same liquid amount as you would R-12. Some systems will perform better with less than the recommended
charge.
Q.
Why do I use only 80%?

A.​
Autofrost is lighter in weight than R-12 (like antifreeze and water). The 25 lb cylinder of Autofrost is the same size as 30 lb of R- 12.
The Autofrost 9.6 oz can is the same as the 12 oz can of R-12. When comparing prices, always divide by 30 lbs.
Q.
What is the best procedure for charging?

A.​
Before starting engine, charge up to 60% ( 2.5 lbs R-12 X .60 = 1.5 lbs Autofrost ) of determined amount through the low or high side
port as a liquid only. DO NOT TURN CYLINDER UPSIDE DOWN! ( Cyl. has a pickup tube and must remain “valve up” ). Allow the
system to stabilize for 3 minutes, then start engine. Turn A/C on Max., wait 3 more minutes and then add up to 20’% ( 2.5 lbs R-12 X .20
= .5 lbs ) more Autofrost through low side port only. Performance may be acceptable at less than 80%. Total maximum charge is 80%(
2.5 lbs R-12X .80 = 2.0 lbs Autofrost )
DO NOT OVER CHARGE!!! TOO MUCH IS WORSE THAN TOO LITTLE!!!

1​
Q. How should the system perform?​
A.​
If you did a performance check on the same system with R- 12 and Autofrost, you would see a 3 to 5 degree improvement with
Autofrost No two systems will perform exactly the same, but the readings will be very close on the suction side. High side pressures will
be within 15% of R-12 pressures depending on condenser design, airflow and ambient temperature. If you experience excessive head
pressure, check for a dirty radiator. Small debris can get through condenser fins, get caught in the smaller fins of the radiator, and is
undetectable without removing top covers and visually inspecting. Dirty radiators, inside and out will cause heat to soak into the
condenser and cause excessive pressure in the system even after the vehicle is parked! It is wise to always measure refrigerant charge.
Something as simple as a digital bathroom scale will be closer than guessing. Remember too much can do damage!

Q. Can I use automatic charging equipment with Autofrost?​
A.​
It depends. Older type automatic charging equipment, which uses a FLOW METER to meter in R-12 at a fixed rate should be checked
with a scale. For example, pull a vacuum on an empty recovery tank and place it on a scale. Program 3 lbs on your charging station and
note the weight added to the empty tank when the machine stops charging. The number scale on your machine can be altered to the
correct amount. Newer type equipment, which contains a set of scales to weigh in a measured charge (remember to only use 80% as much
Autofrost as you would R-12) to a holding tank before charging should work all right. Remember to use the same liquid (level or
volume) here as you would for R-12.
Also, most R-12 automatic charging equipment withdraws the product (R-12) from a 30 lb. cylinder as a liquid, and the R-12 cylinder
must be mounted upside down when attached to charging equipment. Autofrost 25 lb. refrigerant cylinders contain a “pickup-tube”.
Much like a can of spray paint, such that you get liquid out when the can is upright. Autofrost cylinders MUST BE INSTALLED
UPRIGHT when used in charging equipment that is designed to have R-12 cylinders installed upside down. You may have to lengthen or
splice in a small piece of hose if needed. Also, use only automatic charging equipment that withdraws the product from the refrigerant
supply as a liquid.

Q. What about the old “feel the evaporator outlet line” and charge “until it gets cold” method of charging?​
A.​
Blends such as Autofrost sometimes need two or three minutes (at idle speed) to become thoroughly mixed throughout the system.
Often, when the evaporator outlet line begins to get cold, the system will be overcharged. Solution: as you near the end of charging. stop
charging for 2 or 3 minutes and let the system continue to run at idle before performing further charging or diagnosis. If a large part of
the initial charge is dumped into a suction (low side) accumulator, such as on a typical GM CCOT system, the higher boiling components
of the blend will hang around in the accumulator longer than R-12 would. Please take an extra 2 to 3 minutes to let the blend mix
completely before proceeding.

Q. Does this refrigerant need to be recovered (captured) ?​
A. Yes.​
Under US EPA rules and regulations, all CFC, HCFC, HFC refrigerants and just about anything else needs to be recovered and
not be vented into the atmosphere. Refrigerants which require recovery are R-12, R-22, R-134a, Autofrost, and all the other current
“legal” R-12 replacements at the current time. The only refrigerants which may be vented are air (nitrogen), water, CO
2, ammonia, and
pure hydrocarbons according to US EPA rules. You are not likely to encounter any of these, as they will not work and will damage the
system.

Q. What are EPA retrofit fittings?​
A.​
The US EPA is requiring special “uniquely threaded” fittings to be attached to all R-12 service ports. These fittings provide threads
which are unique to each type of alternative refrigerant. These fittings are required by law (only for the automotive sector, does not apply
to stationary equipment) for refrigerants which have completed the entire EPA approval process and are listed as “acceptable” for mobile
A/C. Refrigerants MUST be properly labeled some where under the hood. These labels are packaged with Autofrost. All other refrigerant
labels must be removed or rendered unreadable. Retrofit fittings for Autofrost are available from suppliers of Autofrost and cost around
$5 each. Adapters to hook up R-12 equipment are also available.

Q. What about “topping off" systems low on charge?​
A.​
Current EPA rules only permit “topping off’ with the same type of refrigerant which is already installed in an automotive system. For
systems charged with zeotropic refrigerants such as Autofrost, or almost all other “blends”, the recommended procedure is to first remove
(recover) the charge and recharge with fresh virgin material. As zeotropic blends vapor leak, they change composition (pressures get
lower), and a recharge will result in lower pressures, and some reduced capacity. However, many technicians have topped off Autofrost
systems and report no problems. The property which makes Autofrost change composition (called fractionation) as it vapor leaks, is also
responsible for a big performance gain over single component refrigerants such as R-12 or R-134a. Zeotropic refrigerants exhibit a
temperature “glide” (about 16 degrees F for Autofrost), which causes the refrigerant to boil (evaporate) or condense over a range of
temperatures instead of a single temperature, thus increasing the heat rejecting capacity of the condenser and increasing cooling
performance over R-12 and R-134a.

2​
Q. How will refrigerant identifiers read Autofrost?​
A. All refrigerant identifiers currently available are designed to read R12 and 134a. If virgin Autofrost is entered, it will show Rl2, 134a,
and hydrocarbons. Keep in mind that oil used in the system will also show as a hydrocarbon. Some major equipment companies have
purchased Autofrost and are working on a new identifiers that will give true readings on all GHG products.​
Q. Are compressor seal kits and system o-rings compatible with Autofrost?​
A.​
Autofrost works best with neoprene. GM uses neoprene seal kits and o-rings and are available from A C Delco distributors, Neoprene
seal kits for other compressors such as Ford, Chry. etc are available from EMC Inc. at 800-621-8774. Monroe Air Tech Inc. will also
have these kits available soon. When R-134a was developed, a new o-ring was also developed known as HNBR. The HNBR seals are
generally green in color and have been introduced to the automotive industry as being superior to all other rubbers. However it is now
known that the HNBR seals are only compatible with R-134a. It is recommended that you ask for neoprene since it is compatible with all
refrigerants including R-134a

r​
Q. Do the hoses, driers, or the oil need changing?​
A.​
In general, no. Most American built cars have used nylon lined “barrier” hoses for years. These are fine for Autofrost Some real old
cars, foreign cars, and cars with “port of entry” add - on A/C systems may have “nitrile” rubber hoses, which can leak R-134a and all
currently legal alternative refrigerants at a higher rate, It is therefore recommended that nitrile rubber hoses be replaced. All current
replacement hoses are now of the barrier type. Unless the oil is contaminated by a system failure, it does not need to be changed,
Autofrost works fine with the standard mineral oils (usually 525 viscosity) used in R-12 systems and does not require any additives. If
you change the oil, replace it with the same mineral oil as was in the R-12 system. Alkylbenzyne based (AB) oils also work fine.

Q. Compressor suppliers (automakers) are sometimes shipping compressors precharged with PAG oil, what do I do?​
A.​
Do not put Autofrost into one of those or it will probably fail. Local technicians have had good luck by ordering compressors “dry”
(no oil), and then charging mineral oil (on the bench, while turning by hand). Another alternative which local technicians have tried is to
take the PAG oiled compressor and purge it with mineral oil on the bench while turning it over 30 or 40 times by hand to work almost all
of the PAG oil out. Both dry and formerly PAG - charged compressors have been in the local area for over two years in service with
R-12 and mineral oil.

Q. What do I do with used refrigerant?​
A.​
The best approach is to “recover” (capture it) into a standard gray and yellow refrigerant recovery cylinder and send it to a reclaimer to
be reclaimed to new refrigerant purity and composition. Some technicians may wish to “recycle” (clean it locally). If this is done, one
must make a “pressure-temperature” check to insure the composition hasn’t changed too much from leaking. Let a cylinder stabilize
overnight to some known temperature, say, 70 degrees F. Connect up a gauge and measure the pressure. Look up the correct pressure on
the Autofrost pressure-temperature chart. If the pressure is within 2 or 3 PSI of the listed pressure, you should be all right. If the pressure
is low, then the composition has changed from vapor leaking. The easiest thing to do with changed - composition refrigerant is to return
it for reclaiming.
By far the SAFEST and least likely to cause problems method for dealing with USED refrigerant (from cars which come to your shop), is
to RECOVER it into a cylinder and ship it to a reclaimer. You have no idea what is in the system without using expensive and not always
accurate refrigerant identification equipment. The owner or other shops may have charged in a pound or two of R- 134a, R-22, propane,
illegal blends (often propane/isobutane/butane blends), smuggled - in refrigerant of questionable purity, or other legal blends and not
properly labeled the system.
After doing an evacuation of the system, charge with only virgin (new) refrigerant or good refrigerant of known quality. If you have to
then remove the charge to do more work on the system, you may then want to “recycle” and reuse this charge you just put in, provided
there was no excessive loss of it due to vapor leaking,
Another legal, lower cost alternative to the high price of refrigerant recovery cylinders, is to use NEW BBQ grill propane tanks. These
are DOT rated at 240 PSI and are legal for shipping R-12 and similar pressure alternatives. A 20 lb. BBQ grill propane tank typicall y may
be purchased for about $15 at places such as Sam’s Club or other wholesale buyers clubs. Be sure you only use NEW tanks. If propane
was ever in the tank, it will “stink” for eternity from the mercaptain odorant. The reclaimer will get extremely mad at you and you will
have to pay upwards of $10/lb. to have the refrigerant burned if you do not use a new tank. Adapters are available from Autofrost
suppliers for adapting R-12 hoses to these tanks. The 20 lb. propane tank will hold 37 lbs. of Autofrost (the 80% fill level). Larger, 100
lb. propane tanks may be purchased new for around $80, and the hold 185 Ibs. of refrigerant. If you do use propane tanks, be sure to
contact your reclaimer first to make sure it is all right. Contact your reclaimer or refrigerant supplier for proper shipping instructions on
used refrigerant. A $10 or so “hazmat” fee (all compressed gases are shipped as hazardous) will usually be charged in addition to the
normal shipping charges. The tank will have to be properly marked for shipment and need “diamond” stickers, and other labels. For a $15
tank, you can tell the reclaimer to just “keep it” or sell it or throw it away, since it is cheaper to buy a new tank than to ship the old one
back.

3
Autofrost Material Safety Data Sheet​
IDENTIFICATION​
Name:
GHG Refrigerant-12 Substitute(R-406A)
Chemical Family:
Halogenated Hydrocarbons+ Paraffinic Hydrocarbons
Formula:
Mixture of C4H10 / CH3CClF2 / CHC1F2
Synonyms:
Methyl propane /R- 142b or Isotron-142b or
Chlorodifluoroethane
or HCFC- 142b / R-22 or Freon-22 or Genetron-22 or
HCFC-22 /
R-600a / R-406A/ GHG R-406A
CAS Name: CAS Registry No.
Isobutane 75-28-5
1 -Chloro- 1, 1 -difluoroethane 75-68-3
Chlorodifluoromethane
Manufacturer/Distributor:
Peoples Welding Supply
426 Brown St. Levee
W. Lafayette, IN 47906
Emergency Phone (24hr):
317-463-2672
75-45-6
800-535-5053 or​
PHYSICAL DATA:​
Boiling (bubble) point: -26.23 F
Percent volatile by volume: 100
Boiling (dew) point: -10.05 F Mol. Wt: 89.97
Density (liquid 70 F) 70.27 LB/FT3 Pressure: 95
PSIA @ 70 F
Vapor density (Air = 1): @70 F 1.29 LB/FT3
Solubilty in H20: Slight
pH Information: Neutral
Freezing point: Not established
Appearance and odor: Colorless liquefied gas
faint ethereal odor.​
HAZARDOUS COMPONENTS​
with
Materials: Approximate weight %​
:

Isobutane (R-600a) 4
chlorodifluoroethane (R- 142b) 41
chlorodifluoromethane (R-22) 55​
HAZARDOUS REACTIVITY​
Stability :Material is stable. However, avoid open
flames and high temperatures
Incompatibility (materials to avoid): Strong oxidants.
including oxygen.
Freshly scraped aluminum, alkali metals, and alkali
earth metals (sodium, magnesium, etc.), may cause
exothermic reaction. Aluminum in refrigeration
systems contains an oxide coating, so it does not react.
Hazardous decomposition products: May decompose
at high temperatures (above 400 F-500 F), and from
contact with hot metal, heating elements, pilot lights,
internal combustion engines, and open flames.
Decomposition products may include hydrofluoric and
hydrochloric acids, chlorine, fluorine, possibly
phosgene, carbon dioxide, and carbon monoxide.
Polymerization: Will not occur.​
FIRE AND EXPLOSION DATA​
Flash Point: None Chlorodifluoromethane: Low in toxicity at
concentrations as high as 4% (40,000 ppm). Narcotic
Auto Iignition Temperature: N/A effects have been seen at 200,000 PPM. Heart
efficiency (animal studies) has been reported to be
Auto Decomposition Temperature: 400 F -500 F or reduced at concentrations of over 25,000 PPM.
above
First Aid:
Fire and Explosion: Cylinders may vent or rupture in Inhalation: Remove to fresh air, call a physician. If not
fire conditions, leading to decomposition. breathing, give artificial respiration. If breathing​
is

difficult, give oxygen. Do not give epinephrine or
Extinguishing Media: Water spray similar drugs.
Special Fire Fighting Instructions: Use self-contained Eyes: Flush immediately with water for at least 15
breathing apparatus. Use water spray to cool cylinders minutes. Call a physician.
to prevent bursting or venting under fire conditions.
Product may be flammable if mixed with large Skin: Flush with water, warm slowly (cool water)​
if

quantities of air at greater than atmospheric pressure. frostbite. Call a physician​
HEALTH HAZARD INFORMATION PRECAUTIONS / PROCEDURES​
Principle Health Hazards:
Inhalation: Vapor is heavier than air and can cause
suffocation by displacing oxygen available for
breathing. Contact with liquid may cause frostbite.
Breathing high concentrations of vapor may cause
light headedness,giddiness, shortness of breath,
and may lead to narcosis, cardiac
irregularities, unconscienceness or death. May cause
eye irritation.
Toxicity / Exposure Limits: OSHA and ACGIH
Not established, but recommend TWA 1000 PPM.
Spill or leak: Using a self-contained air supply and
frostbite protection, personnel should attempt to close
valves or repair the source of the leak, if it is safely
possible to do so. If a large quantity is released,
evacuate personnel, and allow to dissipate.​
SHIPPING INFORMATION​
Proper shipping name: Compressed Gas, N.O.S,
UN1956
DOT placard: Nonflammable gas
Do not heat above 125 F
Humans exposed to Isobutane, 500 PPM, 8 hours a Other Information: Date revised: 11/15/94
day, 5 days a week, for 4 weeks, showed no
cardiac,pulmonary or other functional abnormalities. Person responsible:
George H. Goble
Chlorodifluoroethane: Inhalation-Rat -4 HR LC50 - Peoples Welding Supply
128,000 PPM 426 Brown St. Levee
W. Lafayette, IN 47906
317-743-3839 or 317-463-2672​

Manufactured by​
Monroe Air Tech​
522​
W. 2nd St.
Bloomington, IN 47403
Phone: 800-424-3836 Fax: 800-691-4996

Charging Instructions
for Autofrost​
1.Read all of this instruction sheet before beginning.​
2.Diagnose system operation and repair leaks.
3.Change nitrile hoses to barrier hose. ( developed for 134a. )
4.Install Autofrost unique fittings. ( See instructions for installing Autofrost unique fittings. )
5.Vacuum system for at least 30 min. at 29.9 inches of mercury.
6.Determine amount of Autofrost to be used. ( 80% by weight, 100% by volume)
7.Before starting engine, charge up to 60% of determined amount through low side port as a liquid only.
8.DO NOT TURN CYLINDER UPSIDE DOWN! ( Cyl. has a pickup tube, must
Allow system to stabilize for 3 minutes then start engine. Turn A/C on Max.
remain right side up. )
Wait 3 more minutes then add up to 20% more Autofrost until performance is acceptable.
Total maximum charge is 80%! Some systems perform better with less than 80%.
DO NOT OVER CHARGE! TOO MUCH IS WORSE THAN TOO LITTLE!!!​
TIPS:
a. No​
two vehicles will have the same gauge readings.

b.​
Always measure charge (A digital bathroom scale will be closer than guessing. )
c. Air and moisture will not condense and will cause excessive high side pressure.
( Always vacuum system for at least 30 minutes at 29.9 inches of mercury. )

d.​
Small debris can get through condenser fins, get caught in the smaller fins of the radiator, and is
undetectable without removing top covers and visually inspecting. Dirty radiators, inside and out
can cause heat to soak into the condenser and cause excessive pressure even after vehicle is parked.
e. Initial charge can also be accomplished through the high side of the system and will aid in oil return
but do this only if the vehicle is turned off!!
Phone: 800-424-3836

Manufactured by:​
Monroe Air Tech​
522 W.​
2nd St.
Bloomington, IN 47403
Fax: 800-691-4996

Instructions for Installing & Using
Autofrost Unique Fittings,
Test Hose Adapters, & Labels​
1.​
Attach one large Autofrost unique hex fitting to the low side of the system to be serviced and tighten.

2.​
Attach one small Autofrost unique hex fitting to the high side of the system to be serviced and tighten.
3. Attach large Autofrost test hose adapter to the unique fitting on the low side of the WC system.
4. Attach small Autofrost test hose adapter to the unique fitting on the high side of the A/C system.
5. Attach appropriate test hoses and equipment to Autofrost test hose adapters.
6. Service A/C system as needed.
7. After A/C system has been serviced, remove test hoses and equipment.
8. Remove Autofrost test hose adapters from unique fittings. (Test hose adapters remain with equipment.)
9. Install protective caps on both high and low side Autofrost unique fittings. (Fittings remain on vehicle.)

10.​
Fill out Autofrost unique label and place over existing R-12 label or find a suitable place elsewhere
under vehicle hood and render original R-12 label unreadable.

 
And Yes I have already passed the test... If you don't want to take the test I can order it for you, and send it out to you... and of course no charge to help someone out...
 
Oatmeal said:
You want replacement fittings and NOT adapters? Then you've already seen these? http://autorefrigerants.com/co00031.htm When I converted the system in my Toyota (and my GF's Acura) to Freeze 12, I added 3ozs of esther oil to the system and just charged it with a universal side can tap through the original R12 fittings. I know that by law you're supposed to change the fittings and affix a label but it's for my own personal use (I won't tell anyone if you don't). I have been very pleased with the performance (much colder than the R134A I had in there before that caused my compressor to leak) I read the article on oil migration but, as always, it seems like another "why ours is better than theirs" test. I've been running it for about 2yrs now (I never turn it off, it's so hot here now) and haven't had any issues. Just my 2 cents, take it for what it's worth---------Hans

Awright - I hadn't seen right-angle adapters before, those would work (I could just point them aft.) I just didn't like the way the adapter "spuds" ended up running into the other service fitting, there just had to be a better way.

Granted, I don't see why they couldn't just point the damn things toward the rear in the first place...

5-90
 
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