old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
I've got a clean differential and new carrier and gears (4.56's). Anybody have any experience on a starting shim setup to save some steps?
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Starting shims for a HP44
- Thread starter old_man
- Start date
BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
old_man said:
Was there anything in there when you got the housing?
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
No. The housing was empty. It was stamped for the low numerical ratio carrier anyway.
BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
PM RAWBROWN he probably has a good guess for you....I can't remember what I started with on mine.
bigwhitey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brunswick, ME.
I thought it was stamped on the gearsold_man said:
BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
Lincoln said:
Now that is a great idea, next time I do a set I will be doing this for sure.
BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
The pinion depth is specified, not the amount of shim to get to that depth. So if you don't have a starting point (previously installed gears) or pinion depth tool this number doesn't help a whol lot.bigwhitey said:
Root Moose
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- ON, Canada
If you get a starting point that worked for you please post it here. I'm in the same boat with a HP housing (~78 F250).
Rawbrown
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Encinitas, CA
Almost. Thats for a LP D44 rear.
and the oil slinger too.
The baffle is stepped and goes under the bearing cup. and its usually .020". and is not included in the in the shim requirements.
Yukon gives a starting shim of .065" for the HP D44.
The oil slinger is .030" typically and then another .035" under the cup.
I tend to start out at .060" though and have had good luck.
and the oil slinger too.
The baffle is stepped and goes under the bearing cup. and its usually .020". and is not included in the in the shim requirements.
Yukon gives a starting shim of .065" for the HP D44.
The oil slinger is .030" typically and then another .035" under the cup.
I tend to start out at .060" though and have had good luck.
Lincoln said:
- Location
- Foresthill, CA
On the carrier, try .033 on each side. This, along with RB's an Linc's specs will get you close.
You need to add some to get pre-load right, though.
You need to add some to get pre-load right, though.
Ryan, I just slap them together and don't pay attention to what I'm putting in there. 
One other thing I do that may be helpfull. If I guess light on the carrier shims on the first try I will wedge it over against the pinion and check the gap withe the feeler guage then drop .010" from the ring gear side and add .015" to the other. That usually gets the back lash close and a light preload.
One other thing I do that may be helpfull. If I guess light on the carrier shims on the first try I will wedge it over against the pinion and check the gap withe the feeler guage then drop .010" from the ring gear side and add .015" to the other. That usually gets the back lash close and a light preload.
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