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a little help with my brakes?

xjwisconsin

NAXJA Forum User
I have an 88 Chief 4 door, 4.0L, NP231, BA 10/5, no lift, D30 Vac disco front, D35 rear, currently running 4 Bridgestone Dueler 30X9.5 R15LT.
Ive got 209,000 miles on the odometer and have no idea when the last time the brakes were serviced or with what (from what Ive had to fix I dont have alot of faith in the last owners mechanical abilities)

so im looking at replacing rotors, drums and pads, can anyone make suggestions to what they are running in an equal rig? I think this summer I may put on a mild lift 2-3" if that helps at all. Again thanks for any imput
 
I'd say to plan on front pads, rotors, rear shoes, a hardware kit, and rear drums. That way, you're covered for anything!

Then you'll have to get new callipers of course...

:D

Is there a problem with your brakes? Anything amiss?

I've heard that (using junkyard parts) it fairly easy to do a disk brake conversion for your rear D35, using the rear brake parts from a 1994 and up ZJ with a D35.

:)
 
interesting. I also have an 88 with just about the exact same setup.

The front should be easy enough, provided you've done similar before.

The rears could present a problem, IF they've been neglected. Meaning you have to really tear everything apart. Salt sucks, especially with drums.

Find a FSM, and do one side at a time. More than likely, the drum hardware will have to be replaced.
 
the jeep originaly came from the denver area and this is the first winter that it has seen in wisconsin, but i have noticed that anything under the body is quite well seized. the front brakes at this point are showing a noticeable throbbing action, and in the last day or two I have become aware of a slight grind sound from the right rear drum. I have been milking this along for some time now(no cash) and using my 5spd to probably more than the best of its ability. i live in a rural area and stopping isnt nessesarily important(just joking). Should I go with the fancy shmancy slotted drilled stuff... or stick to oem? I should add that planned OHV would be in the midwest and nothing to wild... this is my DD
 
I'd look at the rotors and drums first, because there's a possibility they're not original, and still all right, but it's probably not a bad idea just to replace the whole shabang. Definitely get new springs and adjuster hardware for the rears. They're relatively cheap. So are new wheel cylinders or rebuild kits. Check for seepage and rust, and make sure the bleeders are all right before you start. If the bleeders are rusted solid or sheared off, it's easier and possibly cheaper to get a whole new wheel cylinder than to rebuild it and replace the bleeder.

I never replace front calipers unless the pistons are seized or they're leaking.

While you're checking everything else, make sure all the brake lines are good, and consider replacing the front caliper hoses if they show signs of age. If they're cracked, I'd do it for sure, even if they don't leak.
 
Flush the Brake Fluid, just bleed it until it fresh fluid comes out the bleeder screws. The Manufacturers are high when they recommend the brake fluid to last the life of the car, it is significantly degraded within 3 years, let alone 10 years most cars are used, and 19 years? Forget it, if the brake fluid is the original its surely a mess.

NAPA have Rebuilt Calipers for $18 after you get your core charge back. It would cost about the same to rebuild them yourself, rebuilding calipers is much easier than most imagine, especially if they have phenolic pistons that Chrysler likes to use.

Obviously don't go cheapo on the rotors or pads, you don't have to buy the highest quality out there, but with brakes there are enough loss-leader inferior quality pads out there that I NEVER buy the cheapest pad offered no matter what supplier it is.

A hardware kit for the rear drums is a must also, the parts back there usually seize up if not cared for, especially within 19 years. Maybe turning the rear drums will help.

Check the rear wheel cylinders carefully, they often leak by this time, especially if the brake fluid is old and gummed up. New seals are only a few dollars, and the tool to hone them only a few dollars as well, you can do it with emory clothe, but its worth the couple of dollars for the tool. Rebuilding the rear wheel cylinders can do a lot for reliability, they have been the cause of almost every brake problem I have ever had in all my vehicles over the years. They are usually the cause of the mysterious brake leak you can't find.

Also, the Master Cylinder may seem fine, but they can often get corroded in farther down the bore of the cylinder, where the piston never travels, because you rarely push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. So when you bleed the brakes, the piston on the Master Cylinder stokes the full bore to the end, it passes over the corrosion, which cuts/chews up the seals on the pistons. Suddenly, your good Master Cylinder goes bad just after bleeding the brakes. Just something to look out for.

When you pull the front wheels and look at the calipers, look for the common pads wearing into the mounting ledges. That can cause the pads to stick and that can create all sorts of problems. Depends on the brakes you have, but if you have the worn down spots, most likely you'll have to replace the steering knuckle or repair it by welding in the worn spots and grinding/filing it back to its proper shape. There was a long thread on this recently, it would be good for you too read, do a search for "Mounting Ledges" and that should bring up the thread.
 
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:thumbup:

I hear you... Money shortages seriously suck. Also, dealing with an XJ that's been neglected by the PO is a PITA! I had that with my 1991 XJ, and know how you feel.

The throbbing you feel from the front is more than likely warped rotors, and the grinding you feel/hear from the rear could be the shoes in the drums being excessively worn. (Could also be debris in there, but you won't know until you check.)

If it was my rig I wouldn't bother putting on drilled/slotted rotors. I've heard some horror stories of them cracking not long after installation. A good quality set of pads & rotors should be fine. If you need the extra stopping power, then you might consider the disk brake setup; but stock should be fine for 31/32" tires, right folks?

Another tip; if your rear drums have been on there a while, then you may want to back off the rear star adjuster (not sure if that's the actual part name) inside the drum before trying to hammer off the old drums. The reasoning behind this is that the shoes may have worn the lining of the drum down, and there may be a ridge of old unworn drum keeping the drum from sliding off. Back the adjuster off, and it'll be a lot easier on you.

Good luck, and good hunting!

:)
 
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XJPhoenix said:
If it was my rig I wouldn't bother putting on drilled/slotted rotors. I've heard some horror stories of them cracking not long after installation. A good quality set of pads & rotors should be fine. If you need the extra stopping power, then you might consider the disk brake setup; but stock should be fine for 31/32" tires, right folks?
Porsche Racing teams, when they get their factory Porsche, take the OEM drilled and slotted rotors and throw them away and put on solid rotors. It depends on the particular circumstances, so in some cases drilled/slotted rotors and the effects they promote do help and get you better braking, sometimes they don't and plain solid rotors are better. BUT your not going to experience those circumstances on the street or wheelin. Throw in most slotted/drilled rotors readily available on the street today are just for LOOKS. They are literally Replacement Rotors, bought up and drilled or cut in a machine shop and resold with a nice mark-up. That is the absolute wrong way to do it, the biggest factor for a brake rotor effectiveness is its heat absorbing ability and thats directly related to its mass, which you just removed a lot of the mass by drilling holes in it and turning it into swiss cheese. As well, the drilling/cutting is NOT done thoroughly or properly and it leaves sharp edges that just chew up the pads and cuts pad life to 1/3 what it should be. And worst, it weakens the rotor significantly or creates stress riser and just results in the rotors warping or cracking and needing to be replaced.

Proper Drilled/Slotted Rotors are totally engineered from the ground up. They are cast with the holes/slots already in it with different thickness shape of the disc to maintain the proper mass. Final machining is done and edges stress relieved. Most likely the Drilled/Slotted Rotors you buy, even from reputable suppliers are NOT manufactured this way, they just take their replacement rotor and drill holes or cut slots into them.

Do yourself a favor, and just get a good quality replacement Rotor.
 
Here's my take on brake work - parts are relatively cheap compared to internal engine or transmission components. And brakes are vital so why take chances? Older vehicle - replace everything - rotors, drums, hydraulics, hardware, etc. Put it all back to OEM spec in one session and be good to go for several more years.
 
Rick and Phoenix, thanks for the info... I had the same fears regarding the drilled and slotted rotors, most of the ones I have seen seem to fall into the drilled in some shop somewhere category. thanks for the tips on what to look for when I do get the brakes off and such. any company that you guys lean towards.. IE bosch ect. thanks again for the good advice
 
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