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33's or 35's

H

hot1le

NAXJA Forum User
Location
columbus GA.
I have a 99 with 4.5 rusty's lift, and about 2 inche's of fender cut out. I really want to do 35's but I am not sure I will have the clearance. I dont really have the money to lift it 2 more inches right now, because with 4.5 I have no vibrations and at 6.5 I am sure I will need a SYE. I think I would also have to do a longarm upgrade to do it right. Would I be ok for now with different bumpstops until I can afford the SYE and longarm kit.
 
then don't do what i did, bought 35s then figured out how to fit them :)

i will say that with 5" and bushcracker flares that they rubbed huge. I endded up going to an 8" skyjaker coil/leaf combo with RE CAs and drop brackets. its all been working quite well. but its not cheap either. 33s will fit with you current set up then next time you win the lotto buy bigger.

35s do make trails a lot easier on you

HTH
Fletch
 
Then get longer Shackles, or buy a steel block from Autozone. Boom.. 2" there.
Also, up front... get 1.75" spacers. DONE. You'll be at 6"-6.5" and 35s will be ok. Max investment is $100 if that.

You'll need a good adj. trackbar if you don't already have one, andy maybe a drop pitman. If your running stock tie roe w/ 35s thats not good.

The 2" isn't the problem, the 4.5" is ok with stock components.... 6.5" isn't.
Big jump.

If you want to go big, then you have to beef up the rest of things, or your Jeep won't last very long off road.
 
I have the ajustable track bar and aftermarket tie rod. I guess my biggest concern besides the SYE was the short arms being at too much of an angle. If they will be ok then I will do the blocks and 1.75 spacers. The reason I asked is because I like things to be right and not just thrown together crap that doesnt work properly. And I havent been into the jeep stuff that long. I have been a dragracer for years and just recently found out how much fun this stuff is. So I am not up on what works on the jeeps yet. I figured you guys could help me out thanks.
 
I would say that 4.5 is the highest you should go with the arms in the stock position. After that the angle is too steep and you will most likely get a speed wobble and bad handling.
 
We used to run 6-7" of lift long before long arm kits came out and became popular. It's not ideal, but you can do it, and your Jeep won't fall apart. If you're on a budget, be careful going to 35's, because the stress on the axles and steering, and the issues involved with enough lift, are going to cost some $$.
 
You'll have plenty of room, you just will need to add some bumpstop. My RE 4.5" and trimmed was plenty for 35" MT/Rs.
 
hot1le said:
Do you still have that setup? Any pics?
Click to expand...

I liked everything, but 4.56s and 35s, I dropped back to 33s. I'll be back to 35s-36s when I go 5.13s.

xjon35s.jpg
 
It looks good. I actually cut my fenders a little higher. Just above the curved out part on the front one. If you understand that. So I should be ok. I have the 8.25 which limits my gears to 4.56. Was the power issue really that bad. I mean was it hunting gears real bad on the highway?
 
hot1le said:
It looks good. I actually cut my fenders a little higher. Just above the curved out part on the front one. If you understand that. So I should be ok. I have the 8.25 which limits my gears to 4.56. Was the power issue really that bad. I mean was it hunting gears real bad on the highway?
Click to expand...

Yeah I left the front lip to match the rear.

No its actually like stock 3.55s and say 29s or so, I just like low end grunt :D
 
yeah I like the grunt also but I can live with it as long as its ok on the highway. The reason I started this whole thread is because a couple weeks ago a few of us went to tellico and those dang 31's made my rear drag on everything. If I wasnt locked I would of had a bad weekend.
 
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