getting an 8 lug d44...questions

Buying a built 8-lug late 70s F250 hp d44 from a member on here. Its off an XJ, but will need steering made and a new tracbar since the mount is over the axle. Got a few questions.. here is the axle to get a better picture in your head (nolonger has steering stuff/brace, etc):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280086669889

1. I need a straight tracbar now I think?. I have a RE HD frame mount I'd like to reuse so can I just use a bushing on one end and and SF joint on the other like the RE tracbar? anyone know the dia tube used on the RE HD bars?

2. I run JCRs 1-ton steering on the turdy, I want to use this same setup on this axle. Will there be any issues running an inverted-T setup with over the knuckle steering? I am wondering what to do about my swaybar, etc also.

3. Since its eight lug, is a d60 from the same era truck gonna be my best "cheap" match? Whatever I do I want rear discs, anyone have a writeup?

4. I have TNT stiffiners, but up front I run CROK plates and now RE tracbar brace and MOREs steering brace and Rigids front bumper/bulkhead, will this all be enough for the added weight of the axles? Or do I really need to plate the front end of the unibody? This is a DD and I want it staying light as possible and nothing too crazy. My Jeep is a 99 if it matters.

ZachMan said:

1. I need a straight tracbar now I think?. I have a RE HD frame mount I'd like to reuse so can I just use a bushing on one end and and SF joint on the other like the RE tracbar? anyone know the dia tube used on the RE HD bars?

2. I run JCRs 1-ton steering on the turdy, I want to use this same setup on this axle. Will there be any issues running an inverted-T setup with over the knuckle steering? I am wondering what to do about my swaybar, etc also.

3. Since its eight lug, is a d60 from the same era truck gonna be my best "cheap" match? Whatever I do I want rear discs, anyone have a writeup?

4. I have TNT stiffiners, but up front I run CROK plates and now RE tracbar brace and MOREs steering brace and Rigids front bumper/bulkhead, will this all be enough for the added weight of the axles? Or do I really need to plate the front end of the unibody? This is a DD and I want it staying light as possible and nothing too crazy. My Jeep is a 99 if it matters.

Click to expand...

1. Yes, you'll need to make a track bar. Pretty easy, just get some tubing and your choice of ends to fit the RE frame mount and the axle mount. The easiest thing would be to use 3/4" rod ends and the right spacers to fit those mounts, then a section of tubing and a couple of weld in threaded inserts.

2. No problem using inverted T steering on high steer, may of us do. You'll have to get new high steer arms to fit the taper on the TRE's, which is easy since so many places sell them. You should be able to use the weld on JKS brackets to raise the mounts for the sway bar links, or make your own.

3. A D60, a 14 bolt, or a Sterling 10.25 will give you 8 lug, check around for widths. Yes, a D60 out of a Ford truck would be the same width and is cheap, but won't have disc brakes. You'll have to look for write ups on adding rear discs to a full float D60. FYI, a D60 will be 1.31" diameter 30 spline, a 14 bolt will be 1.5" diameter 30 spline, and a Sterling 10.25 (mid 80's up Ford truck) will be 1.5" 35 spline. TSM now has a disc brake conversion for the Sterling 10.25.

4. The weight of the rig sits on the axles, not the weight of the axles on the rig.

You should strengthen the frame to prevent future cracks from agressive wheeling, not because you have a little heavier axle under the rig.

What tire size will you be running?

Thanks goatman you're a real help.

Tires, we'll I am thinking 35s with the 5.13s arn't gonna be too bad, but eventually 36-37s. Its really being limited by my suspension since I ru nthe RE 4.5" thats an actual 6" of lift and 35s fit it well with bumpstop, going to anything bigger and I will want TNT LAs and it keeps gooing you know....

The XJ the d44 came off of was running 39.5s.

Thanks goatman you're a real help.

Tires, I am thinking 35s with the 5.13s arn't gonna be too bad, but eventually 36-37s. Its really being limited by my suspension since I ru nthe RE 4.5" thats an actual 6" of lift and 35s fit it well with bumpstop, going to anything bigger and I will want TNT LAs and it keeps gooing you know....

The XJ the d44 came off of was running 39.5s.

I am running the same front axle with a dana 60 rear out of the same era truck. I recommend the 60, since I got mine for $100, but I have not done disc brakes on it yet so I cannot help you there. As far as the trackbar goes, I was able to cut my RE HD bar, and weld a new lower end on it and it worked fine. I dont remember exactly, but by moving the mount above the axle, I took about 4" off of the trackbar. As far as steering, I am still running the factory ford tie rod, but I have flat top knuckles and a passenger side high steer arm, so i am running a custom draglink made out of 1.5" DOM with 3/4" heims on both ends.

85cherokeechief said:

I am running the same front axle with a dana 60 rear out of the same era truck. I recommend the 60, since I got mine for $100, but I have not done disc brakes on it yet so I cannot help you there. As far as the trackbar goes, I was able to cut my RE HD bar, and weld a new lower end on it and it worked fine. I dont remember exactly, but by moving the mount above the axle, I took about 4" off of the trackbar. As far as steering, I am still running the factory ford tie rod, but I have flat top knuckles and a passenger side high steer arm, so i am running a custom draglink made out of 1.5" DOM with 3/4" heims on both ends.

Click to expand...

i cant even count how many people ive converted from a d60 rear to a 14 bolt by simply having a 60 and a 14b shaft in my shop, being able to hold both in your hands will do that. go 14 bolt and spend 30 minutes with the angle grinder and never worry about it again. go to pirate for your rear disk brake writeup and 45$ brackets, they can be bought for 100-150$ all day long.

Thanks guys, I saw tons of venders on Pirate selling disc brake setups for all 8 lug rear axles, so no problems there.

Yeah 14 bolt is stronger, but is it needed for 35-37s? no, but I dunno what I will go to yet. My buddy has a rusty rusty 78 Ford d60 housing for free, but like I said its bad rusty.

85cherokeechief said:

I am running the same front axle with a dana 60 rear out of the same era truck. I recommend the 60, since I got mine for $100, but I have not done disc brakes on it yet so I cannot help you there. As far as the trackbar goes, I was able to cut my RE HD bar, and weld a new lower end on it and it worked fine. I dont remember exactly, but by moving the mount above the axle, I took about 4" off of the trackbar. As far as steering, I am still running the factory ford tie rod, but I have flat top knuckles and a passenger side high steer arm, so i am running a custom draglink made out of 1.5" DOM with 3/4" heims on both ends.

Click to expand...

Thanks,

Not sure if I'll cut down or just make a straight one out of toob. What size tires you running? Yours see any street time? Mine will still be a DD

How hard would it be to swap this axle to 5 lug? I think I'd be giving up too much good stuff on the axle to swap to 5-lug though.

I just found a 74-75 Chevy d70 rear (I'm told) 8-lug and 65" width or so, will this work okay?

ZachMan said:

Thanks,

Not sure if I'll cut down or just make a straight one out of toob. What size tires you running? Yours see any street time? Mine will still be a DD

Click to expand...

I am running 37x13.5 boggers on mine. Mine is not a DD any more, but it might as well be. I have another truck, but I still drive the jeep over half the time because it is more fun to drive. As far as the 60 vs. 70 vs. 14 bolt, go with whatever you can get the cheapest. Yest the 14 bolt and 70 are stronger, but they eat up alot of ground clearance. A friend of mine has a 14 bolt in his YJ with 39.5's and I still have about an inch more clearance under my diff than he does.

ZachMan said:

How hard would it be to swap this axle to 5 lug? I think I'd be giving up too much good stuff on the axle to swap to 5-lug though.

Click to expand...

not hard but why is the real question?

-d44 ford 1/2 ton knuckles with 5 lugs will mount to the ball joints..

-basically a 44 is a 44 parts swap from any to either, but again why.
(exception to this is the Rubicon d44 (which has d30 knuckles)

JLane99XJ said:

not hard but why is the real question?

-d44 ford 1/2 ton knuckles with 5 lugs will mount to the ball joints..

-basically a 44 is a 44 parts swap from any to either, but again why.
(exception to this is the Rubicon d44 (which has d30 knuckles)

Click to expand...

I have access to a cheap rear 9" thats already disc braked vs. sourcing and building a 1-ton axle

I think I may just stay 8 lug though, bigger brakes and hubs. I was also told you have to swap out the stub shafts too?

Maybe he's concerned about wheel/tire availability and price. I know the 15x8 8 lug wheels were hard to come by awhile back, not sure if anyone's stepped up lately and is still offering them for sale. I had to grind my front caliper brackets down slightly to clear my 15" wheels on my 8 lug D44. It may be a liability issue with the wheel manufacturers.

fubar XJ said:

Maybe he's concerned about wheel/tire availability and price. I know the 15x8 8 lug wheels were hard to come by awhile back, not sure if anyone's stepped up lately and is still offering them for sale. I had to grind my front caliper brackets down slightly to clear my 15" wheels on my 8 lug D44. It may be a liability issue with the wheel manufacturers.

Click to expand...

I found wheels in 8 lug so no problems there, just matching a rear is the problem.

I am running H2 wheels on mine. They are 17x9 8 lug aluminum wheels with 5" of backspacing, and I got the set shipped to me for $200. The only problem with them is that you will have to open up the center of the wheel to fit over the dana 60 hub. http://rides.webshots.com/album/558342878lokPJh

85cherokeechief said:

I am running H2 wheels on mine. They are 17x9 8 lug aluminum wheels with 5" of backspacing, and I got the set shipped to me for $200. The only problem with them is that you will have to open up the center of the wheel to fit over the dana 60 hub. http://rides.webshots.com/album/558342878lokPJh

Click to expand...

Those painted black would look great on my rig, dang thanks.

Well found a 61" wms to wms Ford d60 housing with 35 spline shafts for $150 and some H2 rims for $150.

That d60 would be perfect if I was cutting down the d44, but 2" wheel spacers will work.

A 14 bolt or a 10.25 would be a boat anchor on 35s. Unless you shave them.

Starboard M said:

A 14 bolt or a 10.25 would be a boat anchor on 35s. Unless you shave them.

Click to expand...

Yea hthey'd have to get shaved, but looks like I am going d60. Probably gonna run 37x12.50 TRXus MTs on H2s.