• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

HELP!!! Rear Main STUCK

J

Jess

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tennessee
Yes I searched.

I cannot get it out. I loosened all the caps, tried a brass punch and a wooden dowel, tried hitting both sides to break it free...all while the crank was being turned----nothing is working. At this point I have been trying for about 3 hours and one side is only out about 1/16 (and has been for quite a while with no further progress).
It took me 6 hours to get the oil pan down, so I expected there rear main to be hard, but this is ridiculous! The whole engine bay was covered with about 1/4 inch of mud and sand when I got it and am in the process of trying to bring it back to life.

Are there any tricks to try or do I just keep hitting it until my arm goes numb....again?
 
what i do is to rock it ( that is hit it lightly ) back and forth Towards the front of the crank and towards the rear of the crank while i have the bolts in the cap holes but not actually in to the threads i kinda use the bolts to pull on the cap as i go back and forth.it is a tight fit so if it is XXXX eyed it WILL hang up.man the xxxx thing wont let me type co ck eyed
 
markaboo929 said:
what i do is to rock it ( that is hit it lightly ) back and forth Towards the front of the crank and towards the rear of the crank while i have the bolts in the cap holes but not actually in to the threads i kinda use the bolts to pull on the cap as i go back and forth.it is a tight fit so if it is XXXX eyed it WILL hang up.man the xxxx thing wont let me type co ck eyed
Click to expand...

I don't understand. What am I supposed to hit front and back? Why do I need to pull on the caps? How does the bolt stay in the hole if it is not in the threads?

I have pulled to last cap to access the upper rear main and loosened all the other cap bolts to relieve pressure on the upper rear main, but the seal is not moving. :gonnablow
 
Not to sound like as smart arse here...have you tried a bigger hammer to transfer more impact to break it loose? Try a solid steel drift making sure your on the round metal part of the seal...just watch the crank. Thats what i always use.

I'v had a few that were stubborn, but not frozen in.
 
I did try a steel drift and also a machined down screwdriver. The driver side of the seal is collapsing and is angled up next to the crank. I is getting very hard to hit it without hitting the crank.
A friend that is a mechanic told me to thread a wood screw into the passenger side of the seal and while having someone turn the crank, try to pull the seal out with the screw. That didn't work either.

I am very worried about damaging the crank, but that seal has to come out!
 
I just did my rear main. Use a punch and a big F'in hammer to push the rear main out. I used needle nose pliers and a buddy on the crank to pullit the rest of the way out. spray it with silicone lube or assembly lube to grease the damn thing. You did remove the main bearing cap right? Take your time and buy 2 rear main seals as you will probably shave the first one trying to get it back in. It's worth it and use lots of assembly lube when putting the new one back in because it can be a pain as well. Good luck fellow jeeper.
:cheers:
 
I think I removed the bearing cap. How would I see the upper rear main if the cap was still on?

If I have done something stupid, that is going to pi$$ me off!
 
Try driving it from the other direction..and make sure your on the metal part of the seal straight so as not to collapse the seal.

Have a digital? Post a pic..
 
Use a metal punch and a big hammer. Tap it out and use assembly lube, while someone turns the crank. It's common for them to get stuck, But easy to remove. Good luck. Try using some brake clean or WD-40 to loosen it up. Don't forget to check all your bearings while you've got the oil pan off. Pull a couple of caps. Use the dealer gasket as well.
 
where do I put the brake cleaner or WD-40? ???on the crank while turning?

I have a one-piece gasket from a 96. I have already pulled several caps and everything else looks pretty good.

One side of the seal is already collapsed.
 
Push the collapsed side out by driving from the other side.

You have me thinking that your using too small a drift if your "collapsing" the seal. Your driving it in between the metal ring inside the seal and the block/crank. Take a close look, you should be able to see the metal ring...you need to drive it out by using a drift larger than that.


I'm sure your getting frustrated...patience and persistance. :wave:
 
I think my drift may be too small. I can see the metal ring, but everytime I line up to hit it, the drift bounces and moves. I am going to try some more tonight after the kids are in bed. I just need to get everything I have to have before all the stores close.

I will try a larger steel drift on the other side of the seal and see if that does any good.

I'm about ready to set fire to this rig. This is the last thing I have to do before reassembly of the whole engine.

If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm open to all.
Thanks..
 
Did you say you got it to move a little? If there's enough to pull on, pull the end like you're trying to complete a circle, and move it like you're trying to put that end back into the other side...Do not pull straight down. Try to pull down and sideways at the same time. Does that make any sense?

If you can pull, while someone else taps, that'll help. Also, if your punch has a flat tip, not pointed, that'll help also. The closer in size you can get (your punch) to the size of the hole in the block, the better off you'll be.

Steve
 
Last edited:
It did move a little, but not enough to pull on yet. I'm trying to find some more help so I can try the tap and pull method.
 
I did the seal on my 99 a few days ago, it was stuck and the only way to budge was with a small flat jewlers (about 0.150" wide) screwdriver between the seal and the block, pry the screwdriver away from the crank to relieve pressure from the metal inside the seal. Of course, having some slack on the crank (loose all the caps a bit) helps. After this, tap it to make it slide to the other side and pull with a long nose plier.

HTH

Rafa
 
Rafa said:
I did the seal on my 99 a few days ago, it was stuck and the only way to budge was with a small flat jewlers (about 0.150" wide) screwdriver between the seal and the block, pry the screwdriver away from the crank to relieve pressure from the metal inside the seal. Of course, having some slack on the crank (loose all the caps a bit) helps. After this, tap it to make it slide to the other side and pull with a long nose plier.

HTH

Rafa
Click to expand...

I will give that a try. Thanks
 
I FINALLY GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!
Driving a small screwdriver between the block and the outer part of the seal did the trick. I worked the screwdriver in on side and then the other and then the first side again and then the second side again. After that it only took about 5 hits and slid right out!
Thanks to Rafa and everyone else for their input!
 
man I thought you were talking about the MAIN CAP being stuck!!!!!!!!!!! Other wise i would have told ya the same about moving it a small bit with a tiny srew driver then grabbing it with a small needle nose plyers then pulling on it.:doh:
 
markaboo929 said:
man I thought you were talking about the MAIN CAP being stuck!!!!!!!!!!! Other wise i would have told ya the same about moving it a small bit with a tiny srew driver then grabbing it with a small needle nose plyers then pulling on it.:doh:
Click to expand...

I was wondering what you were smoking by your first response. I appreciate the effort either way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Scratched bearing while replacing rear main seal
Replies
3
Views
1K
waxer
waxer
B
Oil leak.
2
Replies
38
Views
6K
Bmfinney
B
S
96 XJ rear axle ratio
Replies
3
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
J
Snapped t-case main shaft can't find one.....help!
Replies
16
Views
3K
Jethrodaredneck
J
G
Chrysler 8.25 wheel studs for aluminum rims
Replies
10
Views
2K
kastein
kastein
Back
Top