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How do you remove the Center Consol

X

XJiggy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cleveland
I obiviously know that there are screws that need to be removed. I am talking about how do get the pieces over the shifter and 4 wheel drive lever and the e break lever. I have a 1998 Cherokee by the way.

So i have the screws out and teh plastic piece for 4 wheel drive...I pulled that off and disconected the light bulb so that is off, but i have no idea what to do with the shifter. Help please
 
XJiggy said:
I obiviously know that there are screws that need to be removed. I am talking about how do get the pieces over the shifter and 4 wheel drive lever and the e break lever. I have a 1998 Cherokee by the way.
Click to expand...

One final check: make sure you removed the screws that hold the storage bin under the armrest to the brackets on the floor and rear air vents. Ask me how I know not to skip those...

So i have the screws out and teh plastic piece for 4 wheel drive...I pulled that off and disconected the light bulb so that is off, but i have no idea what to do with the shifter. Help please
Click to expand...

If it's an automatic, put it in neutral then pull the shifter T-handle off; just pull straight up on it and you'll eventually figure out how much strength is required ;) The plate with the gear indicator can then be popped off (easiest to get your fingers under the lip on the side nearest the transfer case shift lever to do this) and slid off over the gear lever itself.
 
o wow never knew that that poped off. alright now I can not get it over the emergency break. so what do I do about that?
 
Pull the E brake all the way up, and wresle it over it. It's a PITA but it will come. You have to hold the lever clear back 'till is hits the stop so if you have your barking break set real tight you might have to loosen it up a bit so you can get the lever back all the way..
 
don't sit directly over the shifter as you yank up on it

i read from so many people, prior to the first time i ever removed my center console, that if you sit above the shifter you'll smack yourself in the face..........i was like ahhhh, i won't hit myself

i was wrong
 
Another tip for removing the shifter knob, (I've done it twice, so must be a slow learner.)

Pull it all the way down into '1-2', rather than pulling straight up on it in 'Park'. Why? Well, I didn't, and smacked my elbow on the windshield, twice. Starred one perfectly good windshield (part vehicle, so no HUGE loss), and the other time was in a junkyard, where for some reason they smash every windshield. Yep. Gashed my elbow pretty bad, but it was my own damn fault.

Watch yourself, and good hunting!

:)
 
alright now that i have the carpet up and out i have discovered a few things. First the Driver side is in perfect condition...no rust at all. second ther passenger side is about as bad as it could be. ther entire thing is rusted out. In addition to the rust there is also a 2" hole right infornt and behind the crossmember.

What should I use to get rid of the rust. I think the best route at this point would be some liquid rust converter or dissolver.
 
XJiggy said:
alright now that i have the carpet up and out i have discovered a few things. First the Driver side is in perfect condition...no rust at all. second ther passenger side is about as bad as it could be. ther entire thing is rusted out. In addition to the rust there is also a 2" hole right infornt and behind the crossmember.

What should I use to get rid of the rust. I think the best route at this point would be some liquid rust converter or dissolver.
Click to expand...

I cut out what I could and killed the rest. Then welded in new plate and bedlined the whole thing. Do a search there are plenty of writeups on this.
 
Cut out as much rust as you can, (if it's as bad as you say) and replace it with good, solid, virgin metal. If it's just surface rust, grind off the loose scale, and then nail it with something like POR-15 or a similar product.

:)
 
alright sorry I have been away from the forums for so long but i need more advice. If i was to cut out all of the rust more then half of the floorpan would be missing. so where does that leave me? Also along with that the cross member to which the seat bracket attaches has a rust hole through the entire thing connecting with the rust hole in the floor.

so should I still cut out all of the rust? what about a replacement floor pan?
But the xj is a unibody so wouldnt cutting out the floor compromise the body strength? or would i just lay the new floor pan in over the old one once all the rust was fixed? but then I would have to re weld that bracket on top of the new floor pan.
 
Found this thread while searchin for how to remove the center console. The link is not working, any other tips advice. I'm rippin what little hair I have left out...
 
RustStang78 said:
Found this thread while searchin for how to remove the center console. The link is not working, any other tips advice. I'm rippin what little hair I have left out...
Click to expand...

Some additional info would be useful. What year, how far have you got with it, what are you stuck on, what've you done so far, etc.?

And incidentally - thanks for supporting NAXJA :)
 
Sorry about that, I have a 89 auto. As far as stuck, just about the hole thing. How is the bottom of the console mounted to the floor, cause I removed all the screws in the black top piece but it is still attached to something. I need to "borrow" my sister's camera and take som pics for clarification...
 
Alright maybe i should have started a new thread because I already have the center consol out and that is no longer an issue. the issue now is what to do with the passenger floor pan which is 75% rusted and has a hole near the cross bracket where the seat mounts.

I dont know whether to get sheet metal, pop rivet it, and the seal it (I do not have access to a welder)
or
buy a replacement floor pan and go that route. but I dont know if replacing the floor pan means cutting the old one out or jjust putting the new one down over the old one.

I have a 98 L6
 
I don't have access to a welder either, and when I did the floor in my 1991 XJ I used old air duct galvanized sheet metal and riveted it in. I sealed it with silicone made for metal, and then ran it from there.

I'd cut out the rust until you are into clean metal, (if it's perforated) and then paint the bare metal edge to stop rust from creeping back. Then go from there.

If it's just surface rust, grind off all of the loose scale, prep/paint with a good anti-rust application like POR-15.

:)
 
but what about the crossmember (which is also rusted) where the seat mounts to. if i just cut that out then there is no place for the seat to bolt to
 
Ack...

You'll need to replace the cross member, and that will need to be welded. I believe you can buy new crossmembers, but I don't know where. Perhaps Omix-Ada might sell them?

Otherwise, you'll need to fab one up, or pay someone to do it.

:(
 
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