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Rust Prevention.. not sure where to post
- Thread starter miketyson
- Start date
justme
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Deep Freeze (Evanston, WY)
We in the areas around Salt Lake could use that help too.
aparke4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Ga
look into buffing/ scraping it down to bare metal pull carpet and such and por-15 or herculine it... on the bottom again bare metal clear rust encapulate and paint or use underspray thats pretty cheap and a good place to start to see how much actual rust you have...
EMSJEEP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island
I herculined my '01 today...eugh, what a mess, it got too cold for the stuff to dry right, after like 6 hours I gave up and laid down dynamat on the still tacky paint, its been a bad day with the Jeep. Once I got the carpet up I found plenty of rust and still wet padding from the infamous Lake Cherokee passenger side leak that I fixed a few weeks ago...Herculiner was easy to apply and a good fix when and if it dries 
I also went around and sealed all the drain holes bolt holes and firewall gromets...thats all I could think of...what a bad day...
oh and the Herculiner is $100 a gallon:hang:
I also went around and sealed all the drain holes bolt holes and firewall gromets...thats all I could think of...what a bad day...oh and the Herculiner is $100 a gallon:hang:
aparke4
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Atlanta, Ga
you have to be patient with the material - just do NOT get it on your hootus- this tacky substance has been the early death of me- but after a few applications and having worked with the material i got it down and it does not irratate me, though it is pricey - prepping is key and the drying temp should be over 60 f for a good seal - the better it dries the better it doesnt smell as well if you are doing interior work... anyways i like it and did ny floors a while back and am glad- also but some on my rock rails to seal it up and give a little grip when stepping
Toyman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Western Canada
I have heard of an electrical device that gives the frame/body an electrical charge that resists corrosion somehow I think by resisting moisture, but I guess that when when rust starts, it never really stops spreading...wait a minute...sounds like what people used to say about Jeeps, "once you start, it never stops..."
Seriously, has anyone tried that thing out? I don't have much faith in this thing personally, but I am willing to hear if anyone has used it with success.
My only other suggestions to prevent rust is to get rid of all the rust before going ahead with some sort of proven road resistant coating like a Line-X, I've heard of home use stuff like Gatorguard, but I have not seen it around long enough to form an opinion.
Seriously, has anyone tried that thing out? I don't have much faith in this thing personally, but I am willing to hear if anyone has used it with success.
My only other suggestions to prevent rust is to get rid of all the rust before going ahead with some sort of proven road resistant coating like a Line-X, I've heard of home use stuff like Gatorguard, but I have not seen it around long enough to form an opinion.
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Remove all the rust and scale you can. If you have access to a media blaster, even a siphon one using a bucket to hold the "Black Beauty" will do, DO NOT USE SAND !!! Use a mask, even with BB.
Blast away any loose stuff you can find, treat the exposed metal with something like Zero Rust or POR-15, I prefer ZR, enviromentally friendlier, especially to person using it and it does not have to be top coated.I have had better results with it than POR
Feather it in to the surrounding areas, give it a few thin coats, about 2-3 mils each. I would spray everything with bedliner when done. Mask off what you don't want covered and remove any tape BEFORE the liner dries.
Being as you are in "Bean Town" I would take a look under the "cancer carpet" (Dana Farber can't help this kind), you will in all likely hood find rust under there, repeat the process on the interior too. If blasting make sure you cover places like the dash, you'll be blowing BB out of your ductwork for years...lol, trust me ..I know.
Blast away any loose stuff you can find, treat the exposed metal with something like Zero Rust or POR-15, I prefer ZR, enviromentally friendlier, especially to person using it and it does not have to be top coated.I have had better results with it than POR
Feather it in to the surrounding areas, give it a few thin coats, about 2-3 mils each. I would spray everything with bedliner when done. Mask off what you don't want covered and remove any tape BEFORE the liner dries.
Being as you are in "Bean Town" I would take a look under the "cancer carpet" (Dana Farber can't help this kind), you will in all likely hood find rust under there, repeat the process on the interior too. If blasting make sure you cover places like the dash, you'll be blowing BB out of your ductwork for years...lol, trust me ..I know.
Like these?Toyman said:
http://www.roemarketing.com.au/
http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/ http://www.ruststoponline.com/
http://www.counteractrust.com/
Reviews say that the vehicle needs to be buried in the ground or submerged in a lake for it to work correctly....
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/070221.htm
http://www.dansdata.com/danletters153.htm (half way down the page)