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np207/np231 HYBRID chop shop...will it work?

firefight343

NAXJA Forum User
alright, so im trying to deal with the aftermath of 1) being a rookie wrencher making "budget route" mistakes 2) a sheared front DS 3) a limited budget. FYI '84 XJ 2.8L, Tf-904, np207 tcase, ~4 inches of lift, stock driveline.

heres the prob:
i have a sheared (and now, removed) front DS (from an '84--i.e. constant velo. shaft "stick in a can"). i want to keep my np207 tcase due to budget, but in my height range i know that a OEM constant velo. shaft is a joke. im trying to convert the front DS over to a Double cardon style shaft from an '87 with a np231 (it needs to be shortened, but i like the beefiness of the shaft).

the question: will the front companion/DS yoke from an np231 fit into my np207 (with regard to # of bolts, etc., idk im new to this haha). im gonna try to yank one off the '87 in the junkyard, but before i do I want to know if is gonna be wroth it.

has anyone tried doing this? any tips? at this point ANYTHING would be appreciated?
 
Yes, the yoke will work. I've done it with my '86 (2.8L, TF904). I can't remember what year my double cardan shaft came from but I think it needed shortened 4-5 inches.

Mike
 
The only problem you will run into is when you change the front yoke, the shaft will stick out a bit too far for clearance on the DC yoke...you will need to grind the shaft back some for clearance....at least thats the way it went for me when i did the conversion....not hard to do with a die grinder and abrasive wheel....or a 4" grinder, but you will need to remove the crossmember for access with the larger angle grinder...take your time so you dont grind off any important parts of the new yoke...
 
so, 1) i need to trim the front DC DS around 4"s and 2) ill need to grind down the yoke a bit too? or can I just grind down the yoke and save myself the trouble of having to get the cut DS balanced? thanks a bunch, Ed
 
The problem is not with the yoke.....when you put the yoke on the front output shaft, the threaded part of the shaft sticks out too far....after you install the nut....the threaded part of the shaft will stick out past the nut...you will need to grind the threaded part of the shaft back some...you will see what I mean after you install the yoke....a good carbide burr in a die grinder or other means of cutting back the shaft WITHOUT DAMAGING THE YOKE will do...took me about 5 minutes with a die grinder and a 3" cutoff wheel.
 
right on, i get what your saying now, the nut that holds the yoke onto the output shaft. :) i see...btw do you know what size nut that is? I dont have one big enough in my numerous socket sets, and want to just buy one individually from the hardwear store. thanks a bunch to both of you guys again! Ed
 
I would like a little more information on this. My GKN shaft tore the rubber boot that keeps the grease in so its toast. I am wondering what it takes to get the front output from a 231 off and the process of putting it on the 207. Also how did you guys drop the shaft on the 207. I can't get a socket on the output flange bolts and can't really get a open wrench on good either. Do you have to take the cross member off? I am probably going to go to the junk yard this weekend to snag the yoke and drive shaft so all help is deeply appreciated.
 
Try an offset boxed end wrench....thats what I used on mine.
 
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