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Any tips on how to get bolts off

B

BIgDaddyChia

RRC Organizer
Location
Round Rock, TX
Ok So I dont think the leaf spring bolts have in 17 years. I have tired brute strength and an impact wrench to no avail. I have soaked them in liquid wrench. I cant even get to the threads fo the front bolts. Any ideas on how to get these off with out hvaing to cut into the unibody to get them cut out.
 
I recommend cutting access holes in the rear hatch area. That's what a friend of mine did and he installed little doors that screw shut so if he had to go in again, no surgery would be necessary.

:patriot:
 
Be extra careful with the front bolts, if you reef on them too hard, you bust the captive nut off the inside of the pocket on the unibody, then you'll have no choice but to cut...

I've cut both sides on mine, then rewelded the nut to the pocket with some sturdy welds, and then patched back over them with some 1/8" plate.
 
Pb blast it for a week every night. Hit it with an impact. If it comes out just a ways. Then go back in and come back out. Keep trying that. If need be hit it with PB blaster again before proceeding. If it is an east coast rust bucket good luck.
 
Heat.
 
boise49ers said:
Pb blast it for a week every night. Hit it with an impact. If it comes out just a ways. Then go back in and come back out. Keep trying that. If need be hit it with PB blaster again before proceeding. If it is an east coast rust bucket good luck.
Click to expand...

Ill try that. It spent 9 years in jersey but you would never be able to tell. I will also try the heat thing. I know at leat the back bolts i can cut out . Its the front ones i am hoping i dont have to.
 
the bolt is probably frozen in the sleeve that goes through the rubber bushing .
when i did my lift , i went though 2 cans of pb blaster sprayed on everything that had to be removed ( started a month before install ) .
still wound up having to cut the front passenger side spring and bushing off because of the frozen sleeve .
then heat the sleeve and hold it with some vise grips while turning the bolt .

this is what was left after the carnage .
 
BIgDaddyChia said:
Thanks for all the advice guys
Click to expand...


One that has worked for me a number of times....

Take a candle or that Gulf Canning wax and melt it onto the bolt. Heat the bolt to the point where tha wax melts when it contacts the bolt. If you watch closely the wax will suck up into the threads.

This wax has a very low melting point so it will melt and not damage the bushing or seals that maybe in the area.

I have had fantastic luck with this. From pinion nuts to bleeder valves, and hub bolts.
 
JAS said:
One that has worked for me a number of times....

Take a candle or that Gulf Canning wax and melt it onto the bolt. Heat the bolt to the point where tha wax melts when it contacts the bolt. If you watch closely the wax will suck up into the threads.

This wax has a very low melting point so it will melt and not damage the bushing or seals that maybe in the area.

I have had fantastic luck with this. From pinion nuts to bleeder valves, and hub bolts.
Click to expand...

I will try that. What do you guys heat it up with.
 
X3 on the heat.

Also, a breaker bar will give you more torque than an impact wrench.
 
the wax works incredibly well. Personally I learned about it from a guy who has got to be close to 100. He was a millwright for 40 years and car nut from age 12. He told me once to use pure beeswax to get some nuts loose. I was amazed. It is hard to get the beeswax now but it is possible to find it for sale. I keep it some around now adays.
 
BIgDaddyChia said:
I will try that. What do you guys heat it up with.
Click to expand...


All that I have is a blue tank propane torch...very minimal considering the size of the parts that I sometimes have to heat.

Jeff
 
A propane torch is hot enough to be effective heating the nuts to loosen the corrosion. I've used one before, it worked.
 
Did you get the bolt out yet? We are pestering too.
 
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