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8K Mile trip planned on 170K motor--what would you do?

mecompco

mecompco

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fairfield Maine
Planning a cross country trip in July--Maine to CA to do the Rubicon and then drive back--approx. 8,000 miles round trip. My biggest concern is the engine--I've put the last 30K on it w/no problems and it runs strong but still, 170K is a lot of miles (and who know about the first 145K?). Looking for opinions as to preventative and/or diagnostic steps to take to help avoid catestrophic engine failure 4,000 miles from home.

Oil pressure at idle is around 38 lbs.
Hoses 1.5 y/o
Serp belt 1 y/o
3 Core rad 1 y/o
Plugs, coil, cap/rotor 1 y/o
Batt 1 y/o

I have a full set of spare sensors, in case one of them craps out.

I do have a spare 4.0 w/140K miles, but that would be a bit cumbersome to bring along ;-)

I have priced out vehicle shipping companies and it is approx. $1,500 to ship from CA to Maine, so would really like to avoid that!
 
I say go for it. If the engine has been well maintained, there is no reason to expect engine or an other castrophic failure. With that said, you may not make out of your driveway with out something going wrong. All you can do is inspect your engine along with the complete drivetrain, suspension, and electrics and replace any worn or damaged item. Don't think because it is a year old, a belt can break, look. In addition, to act of God so to speak, HEAT will be the only thing that will get you and as long as you are aware of this then you should be just fine. If something happens, you might want to contact the board here, I found most are more the willing to help and there are spread across the country. Good LUCK!

Bill

BTW, I have one with 365,000 miles and the head pulled 500 miles ago for the first time. Reason, it sat for almost 2 years and valve train gummed up and it bent a push rod on cranking. So go figure. may die tomorrow but as of now, oil pressure is in 40 range at idle, compression between cylinders varied less the 5lbs. The compression is bit lower then it should be but heck for 365,000!
 
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it'll be fine, I just did a 1500 mile round trip to flat nasty, on my old and tired 4.0 with 265K.
As long as it doesn't make any bad noises then it's likely just fine.
If somethig goes wrong on the trip, run it til she blows. You've already got a spare motor.
you'd be amazed at how long a 4.0 will run with about 0 PSI of oil pressure.
 
I'd tow it out there and back. What is the chance you can complete the trail without breaking anything?
 
Thanks for the reassurances--perhaps I'm just getting nervous as the time flies by. I had hoped to have a new motor (stroker!) in, but will be lucky to finish the lift/armor/axle/gears/lockers/SYE/etc. upgrades in time for the trip. The family would not be amused if I had to put them on a bus home while I got the Jeep shipped back so I'm trying to minimize that possibility.

I think I will change the belt and hoses before the trip and take the ones on it now as spares.
 
ninner said:
I'd tow it out there and back. What is the chance you can complete the trail without breaking anything?
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Well, I don't have a tow vehicle or trailer. I'll be running chromos in the D30 HP (w/stock shafts as spares) and an 8.8 w/Super 88 kit in the rear, along with Currie steering, TNT belly pan, gas tank skid, rock rails, new OME lift, JKS UCA/LCAs and trackbar and reinforced PS box. Tires will be BFG T/A 33x9.5s on Alcoa rims. I think it should be fairly well bulletproof (no such thing, I know) but that sort of stuff can be fixed or replaced--a thrown rod or something would bring the trip to a permanent halt.
 
X2 could blow up going to church on Sunday, of course you all go to church...never live ur life expecting the worse, still trying to learn that, but at the same time, be prepared. What the hell do I know...
 
Do it! I have 191,000 miles and still runin hard. Im plannin a trip to the Rubicon this summer too, its a little closer for me though. I would probably just give it a little "tune up" change fluids maybe plugs etc... based on what you think is due, like a week before hand. and take some spare fluids, maye rad hoses, duct tape (its a life saver) and basic hand tools. Have fun take pics!
-Allen
 
I do cross-country trips in mine from time to time - the "youngest" I've got is a 1989 with 180K on the clock (that is, when we drove SJC-ATL and ATL-SJC with a 3000# weight penalty and a U-Hell box trailer.)

You don't say what year yours is, but if it's a RENIX, I'd really not worry! AMC specified a higher nickel content in their iron casting alloy, which makes the block really tough. ChryCo lowered the nickel content somewhat as time went on, but ChryCo still has some "institutional experience" with tough engines - recall, they did the Hemi (which was cast from the same alloy that AMC used for their engines, and for the AMC242 until 1990.)

I'd be more worried about the axles than the engine. It would take a catastrophic failure to drop one of these engines anyhow.
 
5-90 said:
I do cross-country trips in mine from time to time - the "youngest" I've got is a 1989 with 180K on the clock (that is, when we drove SJC-ATL and ATL-SJC with a 3000# weight penalty and a U-Hell box trailer.)

You don't say what year yours is, but if it's a RENIX, I'd really not worry! AMC specified a higher nickel content in their iron casting alloy, which makes the block really tough. ChryCo lowered the nickel content somewhat as time went on, but ChryCo still has some "institutional experience" with tough engines - recall, they did the Hemi (which was cast from the same alloy that AMC used for their engines, and for the AMC242 until 1990.)

I'd be more worried about the axles than the engine. It would take a catastrophic failure to drop one of these engines anyhow.
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Nope, Jon, still running a HO ('94). Was hoping to have the stroker build progress fast enough to use on the trip, but after totaling up the $7K or so I've spent in upgrades over the last few months and the $3K or so I still need to spend to finish (never really finished, I know) the new engine will have to wait. With the flat cams and tossed rods I've seen on here (and JF) lately, I'm just getting a little paranoid.
 
Just something to keep in mind....recent work statistics (though this may be contradicted by some of the mechanics on here who have more hands on experience with vehicles) from my work showed that the US government states that, including gas, oil, wear & tear, etc it costs an average of $.60 a mile to drive an automobile now. Could be a little more/little less, depending on the vehicle, I suppose. Just makes you do a little math when considering the longer trips, if you're financially strapped like I am. Anyway, I'm sure it'll get you there fine...live for the moment, right? :)
 
mecompco said:
I think I will change the belt and hoses before the trip and take the ones on it now as spares.
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I would'nt.

Rev rule: Never do anything other that normal maintinance (Oil change, lube, etc.) before a big trip. the chances that you will miss "something" and that will bite you are to great. I say change the oil and go, the belt and hoses are almost new.

Rev
 
Rev Den said:
I would'nt.

Rev rule: Never do anything other that normal maintinance (Oil change, lube, etc.) before a big trip. the chances that you will miss "something" and that will bite you are to great. I say change the oil and go, the belt and hoses are almost new.

Rev
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There's something to be said for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Perhaps packing along some new spares would be a better idea.
 
The only thing I would wonder about is getting an oil change at some point, if you are a religious 5K mile changer/tire rotator. Might not matter with highway miles anyways.
 
98XJSport said:
The only thing I would wonder about is getting an oil change at some point, if you are a religious 5K mile changer/tire rotator. Might not matter with highway miles anyways.
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I have oil changed and tires rotated every 3K miles. I certainly plan a change before leaving and then again before heading back (that would be at around the 4K mile mark, depending on our route). Plan a final change of diff fluid (new gears, axles and lockers) and a final tranny fluid change as well.
 
mecompco said:
I had hoped to have a new motor (stroker!) in, but will be lucky to finish the lift/armor/axle/gears/lockers/SYE/etc. upgrades in time for the trip.
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Don't rush this. After all this work is done, make sure EVERYTHING is legit. Make sure the body and axle are perfect (track bar), make sure your alignment specs are dead on as well. With the SYE, make sure that your pinion angle is exact! 70MPH for 8Kmiles on a unbalanced drivetrain will be very bad. What size tires are taking you there? I would recommend taking a full tool set, including a BFH. To be extra safe, carry an extra unit bearing as well as a 12 point 13mm socket.

Good Luck!!
 
RyanM said:
Don't rush this. After all this work is done, make sure EVERYTHING is legit. Make sure the body and axle are perfect (track bar), make sure your alignment specs are dead on as well. With the SYE, make sure that your pinion angle is exact! 70MPH for 8Kmiles on a unbalanced drivetrain will be very bad. What size tires are taking you there? I would recommend taking a full tool set, including a BFH. To be extra safe, carry an extra unit bearing as well as a 12 point 13mm socket.

Good Luck!!
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Excellent advice. I'm really hoping to have at least a month to shake things down before the trip. My output shaft is at Tom Wood's right now getting his H&T installed (242). When the transfer case is re-installed, as well as the lift and new axles (8.8), I will measure for the new DS they are making so we can get it as exact as possible. I plan to run 33x9.5x15 BFG T/As (I'm running the same tire in 235x75 now) w/4.56 gears). Of course an alignment post-lift install will be a necessity.

Edit: Unit bearing?
 
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