front dana 60 parts list for build?

[RWKHausSupply]

Ok well searching did nothing here and one PBB it was a too many hits type reply.

I am now ready to sell off my super fully polished D30 and now dont know where to go. HP D60 I feel is where I want to go, but questions are numerous.

Will a HP60 fit in the front with only 6.5" of lift, or will it interfere with the Exh. or oil pan or?

I hear all this about Ford and only certain yrs. All I know is non cast in mounts? Right?

What do I do about knuckles? High steer right. So can any outer be machined for arms? or just certain ones?

Who makes the least expensive arms?

What do I do for brakes? Specifics please. I am ignorant on this.

the center section of this can be welded correct? Its cast? so pre/post heating right?

What hubs? I was told stock spicer 35sp axles are even a million or at least close to, stronger then my chromo D30 axles? So 35 spline? Are stock 35sp? In other words can I go down and get some stock axles from my local axle shop I use?

What is the difference of the SRW and DRW axles? What are the WMS of these?

And more better then any thing.. Web pages that contain this info is MUCH appriciated..

Thanks

[Matt S.]

I cant add much more than this. I helped a guy swap dodge d60s with a 4.5" lift. it was really freaking tight clearances, but it was ok i guess.

Why not look at a 609?

[cracker]

Robert,


Will a HP60 fit in the front with only 6.5" of lift, or will it interfere with the Exh. or oil pan or?


6.5" should be fine. The axle will have to go forward some. I would run a three link (UCA on the passenger side) to help out with the tight fit.


the center section of this can be welded correct? Its cast? so pre/post heating right?


You will NOT have to weld to the cast if you do it this way ;). I have about 7" and the 609 pushed WAY forward fits good (UCA on the passenger side as well).

What do I do about knuckles? High steer right. So can any outer be machined for arms? or just certain ones?

If you go kingpin to start, knuckles are done you just need the high steer arms

What do I do for brakes? Specifics please. I am ignorant on this.


As far as brakes I run the Chevy 1/2 ton stuff with simple caliper brackets. http://beta.propichosting.com/ThumbHandler.ashx?pa=450017459&sub=6&width=180&ext=JPG&key=633087353859147500


What hubs? I was told stock spicer 35sp axles are even a million or at least close to, stronger then my chromo D30 axles? So 35 spline? Are stock 35sp? In other words can I go down and get some stock axles from my local axle shop I use?


I thought a recent mag mentioned that a stock spicer 35 spline shaft was twice as strong as an alloy D44 stub :dunno:

If you go kingpin you will be stuck with hub. With ball joints you have the option of unit bearings.

Some good info on which axle to buy (get the 78-79 Ford stuff)
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana60.htm

Here is all my stuff I had to acquire in order to get it all running:
http://beta.propichosting.com/FileHandler.ashx?pa=450017459&sub=22&timecode=633087359522116250&checkref=1

-Avery

[heapxj]

I am putting an F350 Dana 60 from a '79 in my XJ and the only problem I forsee is the center section hitting the trac bar mount when compressed. This is no big deal. I have a Rusty's TB mount. I'm just going to cut it and mount the trac bar higher in it.

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

look up Bill A Vista's Dana 60 bible on google or Pirate. There is a lot of information there. I'll see what I can post from my brain. :)

Stock Ford front Dana 60's are drivers drop and high pinion. Stock Dodge (older) and Chevy Dana 60 front axles are passenger drop and low pinion. I believe newer Dodge trucks use a drivers drop low pinion Dana 60 with a passenger side axle disconnect, ball joints and unit bearings, but I'm no expert on these.

High pinion cases are maxed out a 5.38:1 gears. Low pinion cases can go way low like 7.17:1 or something.

Older kingpin axles from Dual Rear Wheeled vehicles use front wheel hubs that place the wheel mounting surface way offset to the outside. One can replace these wheel hubs with units from a single rear wheeled vehicle. I don't know how the wheel mounting surfaces differ between DRW and SRW late model unit bearing axles.

Late model Dodge and Ford Dana 60 front axles are ball joint and use unit bearings. I believe Ford's changed from king pin to ball joint around 1990.

On king pin axles, one can use Ford or Chevy/Dodge steering knuckles. The ford units use a shorter outer axle stub but are supposedly weaker than the Chevy units. The ford outer steering knuckles use a bolt on caliper mount that mounts huge dual piston calipers. They are heavy and many folks switch to some other sort of brake. I'm not real familiar with the various braking options, but I believe the simplest method is to use flat plates (like those shown on Avery's pictures) that mount 1/2 Ton Chevy calipers which are cheap effective, and abundant. Going this route, one can reduce the size of the braking components and more easily fit 15" wheels over the big Dana 60 steering knuckles as well as reduce weight.

Stock king pin style axles used 30 spline outer axle shafts. I think the only stock 35 spline outer axle shafts were from Dana 70 axles and are Chevy/Dodge length. The aftermarket now makes alloy Ford and Chevy length 35 spline shafts. The late model Dodge unit bearing outer axle shafts are 33 spline I believe and nobody makes alloy commercially available replacements. A few California boys on here had Jack make them some custom alloy units for their projects though.

All stock Dana 60 wheel hubs (unit bearing or king pin style) use 8 bolt wheels. Both styles can be modified to mount 6 on 5.5 or 5 on 5.5 wheels.

Parts Mike's web site has some good pictures and information on it.

Dynatrac is now making spindles/hubs/lockouts/outer axle shafts for king pin axles that are significantly shorter than stock parts. I don't know what they cost, but I'm pretty sure it is a LOT! :)

Late Model Ford Ball Joint axles use lockout hubs with a unit bearing. Late Model Dodge ball joint axles do not use lockout hubs.

I would say if money is no object, the best axle would be made from custom aftermarket parts. Avery's project is one good way to go. Custom 9" housing, aftermarked inner knuckles, True Hi 9 center section, 35 spline axle shafts with Dana 60 sized u-joints, aftermarket steering knuckles, Ford spindles, Ford wheel hubs (modified to 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern), aftermarket drive slugs, Chevy 1/2T calipers, custom caliper mount, and whatever rotor works with the hubs, caliper mount, and caliper. If he used Unit bearing/Ball joint outers that would have been a great way to go too.

I think all the information I presented is accurate and a good start for you. Jeff

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Ok well searching did nothing here and one PBB it was a too many hits type reply.

I am now ready to sell off my super fully polished D30 and now dont know where to go. HP D60 I feel is where I want to go, but questions are numerous.

Will a HP60 fit in the front with only 6.5" of lift, or will it interfere with the Exh. or oil pan or?

I hear all this about Ford and only certain yrs. All I know is non cast in mounts? Right?

Reply:Ford front 60's are high pinion. Up till something like 1990, they were king pin. After that, they were ball joint. I believe when they went ball joint they went to unit bearings, but I'm not positive on that. The Ford unit bearing front HP Dana 60's retained the lockout hub feature. Dodge unit bearing front 60's did away with the lockout hub. :Reply

What do I do about knuckles? High steer right. So can any outer be machined for arms? or just certain ones?

Reply: The stock king pin steering knuckles can have a high steer arm bolted on top of them without modification. Ball joint knuckles require work and I believe there are multiple ways to modify them. Aftermarket knuckles also use various methods. Some of the kin pin knuckles use a keyed high steer arm and some use extra bolts. :Reply

Who makes the least expensive arms?

What do I do for brakes? Specifics please. I am ignorant on this.

Reply: Stock king pin Ford axles used large dual piston calipers with bolt on caliper mounts. Stock Chevy king pin axles used a larger version of the 1/2Ton style caliper I believe. I think either of these king pin steering knuckles can have custom caliper brackets bolted to them that allow for 1/2 T calipers to mount up. I believe one has to run a different rotor (most likely 5 on 5.5) with a modified wheel hub with this setup. The advantage is lighter weight and ability to fit 15" wheels. :Reply

the center section of this can be welded correct? Its cast? so pre/post heating right?

What hubs? I was told stock spicer 35sp axles are even a million or at least close to, stronger then my chromo D30 axles? So 35 spline? Are stock 35sp? In other words can I go down and get some stock axles from my local axle shop I use?

What is the difference of the SRW and DRW axles? What are the WMS of these?

And more better then any thing.. Web pages that contain this info is MUCH appriciated..

Thanks

[vetteboy]

Yep, that all sounds pretty good to me.

I'll just add that the stock Spicer 35-spline D70 outers are pretty much a direct swap into a Chevy/Dodge spindle setup. It's the same u-joint, same spindle bearing, just doesn't neck down after the bearing like the 30-spline ones. Then you find some 35-spline drive slugs (or Warn makes 35-spline premium lockouts) and you're good to go.

The passenger drop axles aren't a terrible way to go, as it'll clear up a lot of space by the panhard area on the frame. With a hi-steer arm on the passenger side you'll end up mounting the drag link high enough that you can raise the panhard mount on the axle up to clear the diff easily. Then it's not the worst thing in the world to clearance the passenger floor a little bit to clear a non-flipped D300, and you'll have twin stick capability too.

The older Dodge axles generally are harder to build around...the section of tube on the passenger side is really small and kind of hard to get a LCA mount on. Also the factory setting between caster & pinion angle puts the pinion the lowest out of the 3. They use external hubs or drive flanges which stick out more than Ford or Dodge ones.

However, the large single-piston brakes from Chevy or Dodge aren't a bad choice...they're a little lighter than the Ford dual-piston ones, and if you have 16" wheels it's a non-issue.

Depending on where you locate the axle it'll probably be difficult to run full hi-steer....the best I was able to do was a crossover with the tie rod over the knuckle. Otherwise the tie rod and pitman arm would be all over each other (and that's at about 8" lift).

[RWKHausSupply]

I cant add much more than this. I helped a guy swap dodge d60s with a 4.5" lift. it was really freaking tight clearances, but it was ok i guess.

Why not look at a 609?

I would do the spidertrax but I dont have the couple grand to get the hi9 center section.

I should be able to get away with the whole HP60 for that. If I just wait and get what I can when I find it at "have to sell" prices.

[xjkevin]

i used this site and bella vistas to find my axles. hope it helps.http://medusa.ih8mud.com/cruiser/D60HD/D60.html

[cracker]

I am putting an F350 Dana 60 from a '79 in my XJ and the only problem I forsee is the center section hitting the trac bar mount when compressed. This is no big deal. I have a Rusty's TB mount. I'm just going to cut it and mount the trac bar higher in it.

You'll have to push the axle forward some and push the trackbar bracket forward on the frame rail in order for it to work then you may run into pitman arm complications. You can always place a decent bend in the track bar to help out with clearance.

[RWKHausSupply]

You'll have to push the axle forward some and push the trackbar bracket forward on the frame rail in order for it to work then you may run into pitman arm complications. You can always place a decent bend in the track bar to help out with clearance.

So.. WHat forces the move so far forward? And doesnt that further effect the spring bowing.

Is it true that a 9" front housing has the same size issues as the D60HP? I mean hell a 9" housing with outers welded on it is only 550$, but then I would only be able to afford a LP style center.

[cracker]

So.. WHat forces the move so far forward? And doesnt that further effect the spring bowing.

The size of the diff is quite large and by moving it forward, it allows you an easier time on getting it under there (you mentioned 6.5").

Is it true that a 9" front housing has the same size issues as the D60HP? I mean hell a 9" housing with outers welded on it is only 550$, but then I would only be able to afford a LP style center.

I think the 60 is still larger but the 9" is still impressivly large (over a gallon of diff fluid in the Spidertrax :shocked: )

I would NEVER do a LP in the front. Remember the limited range of (rotational) motion that a CV drive shaft has coming from the TC. Better yet, remove the drive line from the pinion yolk and let the drive line hang. Now where it hangs is a rough estimate of the lowest the diff can flex down to. Now imagine the pinion being 2.25" lower (for a dana 60 and 4.5" with a ford 9"!!!) (http://www.truehi9.com/driveshaft2.html)than a high pinion and you eat up a good chunk of the drivers side suspension droop.

[vetteboy]

Here is a shot of mine at its closest. Frame side panhard mount is in the stock location still.

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/110206/extend.JPG

And from the side...

http://www.phatserver.net/~chris/XJbuild/100306/spring3.JPG

Remember the limited range of (rotational) motion that a CV drive shaft has coming from the TC...

This is assuming that you're going to continue using a CV at the front output. The CV doesn't necessarily guarantee you a better operating angle, only smoother action at more extreme angles. With a single 1410 at the t-case output you can get 37 degrees, and that's what it's rated for...with some grinding you can get about 40 or so. Most CV's aren't capable of this kind of travel unless you get into the really high-dollar stuff (the High Angle Driveline 1350 CV is only good for 32 degrees).

Then there's the axle side to consider - a 1310 or 1410 joint on the axle gives you a ton more angle to play with than a 1350.

edit: The above really only applies to those running lockout hubs, or those who don't spend a lot of time at high speed.

[RWKHausSupply]

ok well heres the next question though....

Isnt the D44HP smaller in size and fit better in the front? If so why would I not just get one, then put on some D60 inner and outers and build it like a 60 with the 35sp arb or ?

Just askin...

[cracker]

ok well heres the next question though....

Isnt the D44HP smaller in size and fit better in the front? If so why would I not just get one, then put on some D60 inner and outers and build it like a 60 with the 35sp arb or ?

Just askin...

You can. That is what Jeff 98XJ WI is doing.

[vetteboy]

<edited for SPOBI>

Other than that, sure, you can go as nuts as you want for outer hardware. It just becomes a matter of the limit of your budget and patience, and if you mind having your R & P become the weak link.

[RWKHausSupply]

You can. That is what Jeff 98XJ WI is doing.

So is the housing that much smaller dia?

And I take it that if I get a full width D44HP that I could have enough material to just cut the inner off and then still have enough tube left to have a D60 inner put on? Or would it be necc. to have all new tubes put in?

This sounds like it might be a better fit and cheaper really? As well as much better ground clearance (if one wasnt to shave the crap out of a D60), then the D60?

[RWKHausSupply]

As far as I know, you can only go up to 4.56 for the HP44, so that might screw with any gearing plans.

Other than that, sure, you can go as nuts as you want for outer hardware. It just becomes a matter of the limit of your budget and patience, and if you mind having your R & P become the weak link.

It looks like 5.13 is avail?

[cracker]

So is the housing that much smaller dia?

And I take it that if I get a full width D44HP that I could have enough material to just cut the inner off and then still have enough tube left to have a D60 inner put on? Or would it be necc. to have all new tubes put in?

This sounds like it might be a better fit and cheaper really? As well as much better ground clearance (if one wasnt to shave the crap out of a D60), then the D60?

I had heard some guys were having problems finding front axle seals. Jeff will shime in and he aslo has a build up thread on here somewhere. I don't know if the 44 ground clearance is that much better than a 9" but it is definitly better than a 60 but just put 42s on there and you'll be good :D

It looks like 5.13 is avail?

Actually 5.38 is available for the high pinion

[vetteboy]

Hmm, it would appear you are correct. And 5.38 for that matter. Guess I need to update my list...

I would imagine that the pinion gets pretty small at that point though. :eek:

[RWKHausSupply]

I had heard some guys were having problems finding front axle seals. Jeff will shime in and he aslo has a build up thread on here somewhere. I don't know if the 44 ground clearance is that much better than a 9" but it is definitly better than a 60 but just put 42s on there and you'll be good :D



Actually 5.38 is available for the high pinion

Thats about right then with 35 or 37's then..

that way the rear 8.8 also would not look like runt, compared to the 60. I think I will look for the D44hp. I have seen those for lower $ lately I thought.

[cracker]

Hmm, it would appear you are correct. And 5.38 for that matter. Guess I need to update my list...

I would imagine that the pinion gets pretty small at that point though. :eek:

The contact patch does get small at that point so bigger tires may be an issue.

Farmer Matt ran 37s on 5.38s with out an issue (I think).

[RWKHausSupply]

so in a unibearing. What would one use? I figure they would stick out much less then hubs/curb feelers?

I see tera have 33sp "1-ton" ones.

If I do go with sel hubs do they Have to stick out as far as yours avery? Or is that due to some brake/hub fitment?

[DirtyMJ]

ok well heres the next question though....

Isnt the D44HP smaller in size and fit better in the front? If so why would I not just get one, then put on some D60 inner and outers and build it like a 60 with the 35sp arb or ?

Just askin...


I asked about it and apparently the R&P wasn't going to be up to what I wanted.


I'd consider it a viable option if your final weight is going to be decently low, tire size is kept in check, and you're not going to be putting down V8 power.

[RWKHausSupply]

I asked about it and apparently the R&P wasn't going to be up to what I wanted.


I'd consider it a viable option if your final weight is going to be decently low, tire size is kept in check, and you're not going to be putting down V8 power.

well only expect to ever see 37's and its I am estimating 3600lbs and its the stock renix with poss a atlas or stak some day...

[TNT]

If you aren't going full width get a mid 80's HP D60 ford housing and then only the passenger tube needs to be shorted to get a 63-65" axle width. Chevy knuckles and spindles are stronger and fit the 35 spline outers. If you are interest I do have most of the parts you need.

[XJ_ranger]

So is the housing that much smaller dia?

And I take it that if I get a full width D44HP that I could have enough material to just cut the inner off and then still have enough tube left to have a D60 inner put on? Or would it be necc. to have all new tubes put in?

Dedenbear makes D60 inner knuckles that will weld right onto a HP44 tube -
http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php

as far as narrowing a full width 44, it depends on what axle shafts you want to run...

there are 2 'full widht' HP44's that you can get - F-150 is about 65" WMS WMS, where the F250 HP44 is about 69"WMS-WMS - and the difference is in the tube lengths...

I think you could figure out what you want for a WMS measurement on your axle, measure the length on one side from the WMS to the inside of the inner C on your D60 junk, then measure the lengths of tubes on the various 44's... and make your housing that wide... so - no need to re-tube...

then call alloy USA and ask them how to measure for your custom length axle shafts and be done with it...

if you're not breaking D30 alloys, you wont break d60 alloys... and its not like a front axle shaft prevents you from driving home... I wouldnt worry about having the axle shaft lengths be a production length... its not like NAPA auto parts stocks d60 axle shafts anyhow...

[RWKHausSupply]

If you aren't going full width get a mid 80's HP D60 ford housing and then only the passenger tube needs to be shorted to get a 63-65" axle width. Chevy knuckles and spindles are stronger and fit the 35 spline outers. If you are interest I do have most of the parts you need.

well I think I will just go dana 44HP center and then cut the knuckles off and see how the length looks for the D60 inners to go one and what the WMS would be.

[RWKHausSupply]

Dedenbear makes D60 inner knuckles that will weld right onto a HP44 tube -
http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php

as far as narrowing a full width 44, it depends on what axle shafts you want to run...

there are 2 'full widht' HP44's that you can get - F-150 is about 65" WMS WMS, where the F250 HP44 is about 69"WMS-WMS - and the difference is in the tube lengths...

I think you could figure out what you want for a WMS measurement on your axle, measure the length on one side from the WMS to the inside of the inner C on your D60 junk, then measure the lengths of tubes on the various 44's... and make your housing that wide... so - no need to re-tube...

then call alloy USA and ask them how to measure for your custom length axle shafts and be done with it...

if you're not breaking D30 alloys, you wont break d60 alloys... and its not like a front axle shaft prevents you from driving home... I wouldnt worry about having the axle shaft lengths be a production length... its not like NAPA auto parts stocks d60 axle shafts anyhow...

Fully agree about the shafts. I am prolly just going to get alloy 35sp inners and stock spicer outers with yukon super joints. At least thats what is in my head right now.

My major concern more then anything is all the small or odd stuff that a D30 doesnt have that a D60 outer will and how to fit it all together. I Really dont want some hub sticking out flush with my wheel. And want to have the wheels a 5x5.5, to match a set of adapters I have for the rear 8.8 to that pattern.

[RWKHausSupply]

Anyone have any info on say a 2000 ford superduty f250/350 front d50? Are the stock axle mounts easily removed? I read that its a HP44 center and 60 outer stuff?

Any info would be great. I can get one of these for 410$ complete...

[RWKHausSupply]

Anyone have any info on say a 2000 ford superduty f250/350 front d50? Are the stock axle mounts easily removed? I read that its a HP44 center and 60 outer stuff?

Any info would be great. I can get one of these for 410$ complete...

Nevermind, after doing much reading on pirate's D60 page it looks as though the D50 is a 9" ring gear thingy that is not very supported right now.

Back to D44 adn 60. Reading that the D60 outer stuff in a chevy / dodge fits much better then the Ford?

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

with yukon super joints. At least thats what is in my head right now.



eeeewwww!

dude those joints are crap.

[FarmerMatt]

Farmer Matt ran 37s on 5.38s with out an issue (I think).

I have many issue's, but the frontend ring & pinion hasn't been one of them. They held through a couple broken axles...

[jmop]

eeeewwww!

dude those joints are crap.

What makes you say that? I've been thinking about upgrading the joints and shafts in my 60 and was leaning twords the Super joint. I like the pressurized grease resivour and it has about as much material on the body as possible. It isn't 300m but it doesn't cost as much as a CTM either.

[xDUMPTRUCKx]

What makes you say that? I've been thinking about upgrading the joints and shafts in my 60 and was leaning twords the Super joint. I like the pressurized grease resivour and it has about as much material on the body as possible. It isn't 300m but it doesn't cost as much as a CTM either.

its a gold spray painted copy of a ctm.....


pressurized grease resivor huh? like a hole with a zerk that you use an airpowered grease gun on?

nothing new there in fact ctms have those.

I KNOW why ctms cost as much as they do and they arnt making very much $$$ on them at all. Its the quality that costs.

If your gonna spend the $$$ on something do it once and do it right.

[RWKHausSupply]

its a gold spray painted copy of a ctm.....


pressurized grease resivor huh? like a hole with a zerk that you use an airpowered grease gun on?

nothing new there in fact ctms have those.

I KNOW why ctms cost as much as they do and they arnt making very much $$$ on them at all. Its the quality that costs.

If your gonna spend the $$$ on something do it once and do it right.

I agree that IF you need all that then yes go for it. The CTM stuff is bank and it I am sure is worth every penny. But just liek how we all cant afford a tube chassis to start with, we all cant afford CTM's. The super joint is 72% stronger then a stock comparable joint, or so Crawl mag says. SO to me, I have Never broken or needed to do a emergancy D30 ujoint repair, and with a D60 joint and it being 72% stronger then the stock 60 joint, I really doubt I will have any issues.

Given IF I was single or have a Much better finacial situation I would for sure go CTM's. In fact I would go full CDR50R front and Spidertrax rear with all jacks inners and hell might as well throw a new LS6 in there with a stak 3 sp box and make mine a tube chassis...

[Russ Pottenger]

I agree that IF you need all that then yes go for it. The CTM stuff is bank and it I am sure is worth every penny. But just liek how we all cant afford a tube chassis to start with, we all cant afford CTM's. The super joint is 72% stronger then a stock comparable joint, or so Crawl mag says. SO to me, I have Never broken or needed to do a emergancy D30 ujoint repair, and with a D60 joint and it being 72% stronger then the stock 60 joint, I really doubt I will have any issues.

Given IF I was single or have a Much better finacial situation I would for sure go CTM's. In fact I would go full CDR50R front and Spidertrax rear with all jacks inners and hell might as well throw a new LS6 in there with a stak 3 sp box and make mine a tube chassis...
I agree with both Ben and Robert. Both make good points. The "Wish List" that you gave us Robert is what I call Jeep Porno...stuff ya cant really afford, but ya like to at least look at it. :D

[ashmanjeepxj]

Fully agree about the shafts. I am prolly just going to get alloy 35sp inners and stock spicer outers with yukon super joints. At least thats what is in my head right now.

My major concern more then anything is all the small or odd stuff that a D30 doesnt have that a D60 outer will and how to fit it all together. I Really dont want some hub sticking out flush with my wheel. And want to have the wheels a 5x5.5, to match a set of adapters I have for the rear 8.8 to that pattern.

8.8 and d60 is no match... get a d44..

I wheeled my stock 79 ford d60 for years till I broke a long side shaft. I just got my alloy USA shafts with 35 spline outers yesterday.

Getting alloy inners and keeping stock 30 spline outers on a d60 is a bad move, if you brake an outer it can easily mushroom the spindle making the hub not removable, you would have to cut alot of it off and buy lots of expensive new parts. Anyone I know chooses alloy outers and some keep spicer inners or do all alloys. Alloy USA is worth the extra money over Yukon.

No need for Yukon, ox, or CTMs for most guys. I bought 806 spice joints those should hold fine with my alloy usa shafts. The 35spline warn hub will be the weak link or my drive shafts. If I upgraded to an ARB, flanges and better drive shafts I could have Ujoint issues. But be realistic I have a v8 auto dualcases and 42s.

you need to keep you d30.. a 8.8 with a 5-5.5 d60 front is recockulious.

[RWKHausSupply]

8.8 and d60 is no match... get a d44..

I wheeled my stock 79 ford d60 for years till I broke a long side shaft. I just got my alloy USA shafts with 35 spline outers yesterday.

Getting alloy inners and keeping stock 30 spline outers on a d60 is a bad move, if you brake an outer it can easily mushroom the spindle making the hub not removable, you would have to cut alot of it off and buy lots of expensive new parts. Anyone I know chooses alloy outers and some keep spicer inners or do all alloys. Alloy USA is worth the extra money over Yukon.

No need for Yukon, ox, or CTMs for most guys. I bought 806 spice joints those should hold fine with my alloy usa shafts. The 35spline warn hub will be the weak link or my drive shafts. If I upgraded to an ARB, flanges and better drive shafts I could have Ujoint issues. But be realistic I have a v8 auto dualcases and 42s.

you need to keep you d30.. a 8.8 with a 5-5.5 d60 front is recockulious.

ok well ya lost me..

Maybe I wasnt clear. Goin for HP44, and 35sp ARB, all D60 35sp outer stuff in a 8lug even is fine. Then for the rear keep it for a while till funds replenish then do the same thing prolly.

[Mr.OverKill]

subscribe.

inquireing minds want to know!!

[Goatman]

eeeewwww!

dude those joints are crap.

Based on??

Don't like the attitude there son.

Another product can be better, but that doesn't make this product crap. :nono:



Let's see you get your's built and get some trail time in it, then see if you want to talk big.

[Goatman]

No need for Yukon, ox, or CTMs for most guys. I bought 806 spice joints those should hold fine with my alloy usa shafts. The 35spline warn hub will be the weak link or my drive shafts. If I upgraded to an ARB, flanges and better drive shafts I could have Ujoint issues. But be realistic I have a v8 auto dualcases and 42s.



I agree. Most guys will never break a stock Spicer D60 u-joint. If 37's is as big as you'll ever go, which is true if you stay full bodied, I'd see no reason to not use Spicer u-joints and Spicer axle shafts. Guys with tires much larger than 37's are running 35 spline Spicer D60 stuff and not breaking. How many recreational wheelers are breaking Spicer or 1541 alloy 35 spline rear axles?

For what you're doing, I wouldn't worry about expensive D60 shafts and joints.

[Capt. Nemo]

...SO to me, I have Never broken or needed to do a emergancy D30 ujoint repair...

So why the push to upgrade?

[RWKHausSupply]

well the 35's look Very small and I could not seriously find a place (with semi soft landing or even close that was less then a 20' wall) that I could put it over on its side at the 7" lift I am at, out at TDS. I wanted to see how stable or unstable it was now with no body and prolly like 85-90% of the wieght very low.

So now I am ready to step up to a 37-40" tire and lift it maybe 2 more inches and the 30 I dont think will survive, as well as I am out of stuff to do to it right now, and with O.C.D. I had to find something to work on. :gee:

I am thinking that 2 maybe 3" more and a 2" taller tire with 4" wide track should still be very stable. not to mention I want to go in the 5's for gears and the 8.8 with chromo shafts now and fully trussed and such should be fine up to a 37 maybe 39.5?