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Which u-joints for rear driveshaft??

F

Fred85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Orange, VA
'01 xj

Autozone only offers the PDQ brand of joint for my year, they have both the regular variety and the "brute force"........are these joints ok? i'd like to buy from AZ because they have that rewards program.....

But, if that brand isn't worth buying, what about neapco from advance??
 
Ben H said:
1310 Spicer
Click to expand...

Yup. Part number 153x.

I've had issues with the no-name brands. So only Spicer for me.
 
I'm pretty sure neapco makes the PDQ u-joints. I've almost always stuck with spicer, but I've used the PDQ ones when the driveshaft guy was closed. He also told me that neapco was another good u-joint.
 
bruteforce is the maximum suckage, they're not serviceable.
I['ve not had any problems with the PDQ joints, just make sure they've got zerks and keep them well serviced.
 
it's kind of a toss up. if you are going to be good about greasing your u-joints, then i would get the greasable once. only problem with them is that sometimes you can't get at the grease fitting, or there is enough pressure on them that the grease won't get into all of the caps. in that case you have to drop the driveshaft, put a clamp on the caps to keep them from poping off, and then grease them.

if that's to much work, then i would recommend getting the sealed units without grease fittings. i use the brute force u-joints, and another brand from checkers. i haven't had any problems with them, and i believe they carry a life-time warranty.
 
My rear driveshaft ate two bruteforce u-joints in just under a year.

advance wouldn't warranty them.
 
I've used spicer, brute force, the tawian brand, and even Tom Woods Gold Seals. They all break about the same. Put in the 11 dollar unit and change it in 10,000 miles.
 
as an advance autoparts employee, i'll just tell you that the warranty wont cover anything.... also, the brute force joints are good joints, i've got a buddy running nothing but in his 79 F-150. its 410ft-lbs at the flywheel, w/ 4.10's, 36's, np435 and lead foot. he's never broke one yet.... you can change the grease in them to a moly based and help alot, they come w/ what appears to be a white lithium in them from the factory. i've never seen a brute force broken in my 4 years here, but we dont get alot of the wheeling crowd around here, more mud boys in stockers rubbing 235's and 31/10's......
 
terryd said:
as an advance autoparts employee, i'll just tell you that the warranty wont cover anything.... also, the brute force joints are good joints, i've got a buddy running nothing but in his 79 F-150. its 410ft-lbs at the flywheel, w/ 4.10's, 36's, np435 and lead foot. he's never broke one yet.... you can change the grease in them to a moly based and help alot, they come w/ what appears to be a white lithium in them from the factory. i've never seen a brute force broken in my 4 years here, but we dont get alot of the wheeling crowd around here, more mud boys in stockers rubbing 235's and 31/10's......
Click to expand...
how does one change the grease in them if they're not serviceable? There's not any way I'm pulling all of those needle bearings out and cleaning the whole thing with brake cleaner to change out the grease.

admittedly, my rig is probably hard on u-joints, due to the locker and a 5spd the rear one takes a beating, but I just can't deal with a non-serviceable joint.
 
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