• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

3 link front with stock arm locations on the body?

XJ_ranger

XJ_ranger

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Port Orchard, WA
anyone running a 3 link with stock arm locations on the body?

Im thinking on removing the upper link on the drivers side, and running RE super flex joints everywhere...

My axle mounts are raised 2" over stock, but other than that, same positioning...

My LCA bushing at the axle end are shot, and my axle moves about 2" forward and back on the freeway giving some serious deathwobble issues...:scared:


Scrappy - i know you did this for a while, how did it work out?
 
I wouldn't trust the stock UCA frame mount.....they've been known to come off. As far as link geometry, it's the same as you have now. Removing one arm doesn't change any of the lengths or angles.

I also would make sure the LCA axle mounts are strengthened some, if you haven't done it already. If a mount breaks on a four link you stop and fix the mount. If a mount breaks on a three link you stop and fix what's broken on your front end. :)
 
Driver's side would be the one I'd keep, and ditch the passenger side, unless you're planning on trussing that side of the axle with a whole new UCA mount. That cast driver's side UCA mount on the diff is going to be way stronger than the stamped steel mount on the passenger side. Shoot, a lot of folks with regular 4-links and radius arms beef up that passenger side mount anyway.

Mark Hinkley runs a 3-link on his rig, short-arms (sorta), 'stock' mounts on the body (the locations are stock, I don't know if he's done any reinforcing though, probably has, knowing Hinkley...), but he runs a single driver's side UCA.
 
I dont run a d30 front.

I need to dump the drivers side mount so I can cut off my axle truss which collides with my oil pan at full compression :conceited

I will re-enforce the upper mounts on both sides frame, ill just skin the inner flange of the frame mount with some 1/8"

my lower mounts are 3x3 box tube with a hole cut in them and slid onto the axle tube, then fully welded on both sides. I dont think they are coming off without some MAJOR carnage...

Anyone put the currie johnny joint onto their axle end of the UCA?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1277

Im thinking i would like to use this and just brace my current upper link rather than replace the whole thing entirely... and it would allow me to keep my current arms, and carry one as a spare :wierd:

what about the fact that the lower links are fairly parallel and the upper link is at an angle? will that give me bad driving characteristics?
 
I have a 3link up front. Lowers are RE adjustables with the big REjoint and big rubber. 1 passenger side upper with a small REjoint and a 3/4" hiem joint. I have the RE drop brackets that are welded in and reinforced (which is why i felt comfortable doing the 3link). On the new build, I will be doing the same style suspension. With the MJs beefed up control arm mounts, I will be using the stock mounts and possibly looking at a Jarm because of the way the front truss is built.

In a nutshell, 3link is good with 1 pass upper. Redo your stock mounts or brace them up real well.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
Most guys I've seen running custom 3-links have some type of flex joint on the ends of the upper arm.
Click to expand...

XJ_ranger said:
Im thinking on removing the upper link on the drivers side, and running RE super flex joints everywhere...
Click to expand...
 
hey scrappy.....i have been contemplating removing my drivers side upper arm with my current setup, as well. did you have any problems with the rubber bushings in the lower arms? i was planning on keeping my JKS lowers with the rubber bushings and making a new upper with RE joints for the passenger side (trackbar brace interferes with my driver side UCA mount)
 
You know randy, I cant say if there were any ill effects. I only was able to do run on that front setup and it was a snow run with limited crawling. I honestly feel that the rubber bushings are fine, but I will probably be switching them out for big RE joints. My biggest reason for doing something like that would be because they are rebuildable and I like solid joints.

I dont think your going to have problems keeping the rubber in the lowers at one end, but I have no facts to base that on.
 
What about rubber on both ends? :dunno:

My LCA mounts are beefed up a little bit, still in stock location. Pass. UCA mount is beefed up a little bit too.
I've got Rusty's Uppers and lowers, both sets adjustable no jam nuts. I like the idea of the 3 link short arms.
What would I gain by just loosing the pass. UCA?

Hale
 
Last edited:
Haleyes said:
What about rubber on both ends? :dunno:

My LCA mounts are beefed up a little bit, still in stock location. Pass. UCA mount is beefed up a little bit too.
I've got Rusty's Uppers and lowers, both sets adjustable no jam nuts. I like the idea of the 3 link short arms.
What would I gain by just loosing the pass. UCA?

Hale
Click to expand...

No Jam nuts!? How long do you expect before the threads pull themselves apart?
 
I have been wanting to put an RK joint(the one that comes with the 3 link) in my Drivers side upper and lose my passenger side upper. I have REs drop brackets with braces. Main reason I wanted to do it was because its pretty rough on upper bushings in the housing. Its a driven rig if this makes any difference. I guess I could keep my passenger upper in the jeep in case of failure of the other side lol.
 
Scrappy said:
No Jam nuts!? How long do you expect before the threads pull themselves apart?
Click to expand...
I don't know. Going on 2 years now with no problems, no clunks.:dunno: I didn't think it was that big of a deal. I know others that do the same. They have acme threads. I asked about the use of jam nuts when I got them:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73318

Hale
 
I think rubber on the lower links of a three link is OK, but I don't think rubber on the upper link is a good idea. Of course, I don't like the axle wrap that you get with rubber UCA bushings. I guess it could be just a matter of personal preference, but the bushings on the single upper link do need to be strong, as do the link and the mounts.


No jam nuts? It might work fine for awhile, but I seriously doubt you could get a consensus that it's a good idea. The acme thread is a much thicker and stronger thread, and is designed to be used that way, and I'm sure there is quite a bit more thread engagement than there is on a heim joint. Keep your eye on it at least.
 
so let me get this straight, cause I am a noob, you can just remove a uca at will and call it a three link? Please someone show some pics of this, I have adj. uca's and fixed lca's if I removed a uca then I have a three link thats gonna actually work for street and trail?
Sorry for the rambling, but I am very confused
 
Haleyes said:
I don't know. Going on 2 years now with no problems, no clunks.:dunno: I didn't think it was that big of a deal. I know others that do the same. They have acme threads. I asked about the use of jam nuts when I got them:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73318

Hale
Click to expand...

NOT TO TURN THIS INTO AOTHER RUSTY'S THREAD!!!
But I too have Rusty's lowers and don't run jam nuts. Been fine for over 2.5 years with about 1.5 years of daily driving over 50 miles a day, and of course some pretty hard wheeling in between:). I keep them very well greased and check them for play whenever I work on/inspect the suspension.
Rusty calims they are designed to be run this way, that is why there is a grease zerk there. He does sell jam nuts, but they say they are only for on road, and are not required.
If you have jam nuts on rusty's arms, off road, you are supposed to loosen them (according to the instructions). If not they bind during major articulation since they have rubber bushings. This is where things break.
I will add, if I end up running these for a while, I would replace the frame side joint with an RE flex joint, and get jam nuts.
 
Mstrkage said:
so let me get this straight, cause I am a noob, you can just remove a uca at will and call it a three link? Please someone show some pics of this, I have adj. uca's and fixed lca's if I removed a uca then I have a three link thats gonna actually work for street and trail?
Sorry for the rambling, but I am very confused
Click to expand...

ok,

i should make a few things clear here -
Im in no way reccomending that other people do this to their on vehicles.
MY XJ has been heavily modified, and is on the verge of being a trailer queen. it sees only enough street to get to the trail.
the reason that im interested in doing this is to eliminate the bushings (and play caused by them) in my suspention and locate my axle better.

IntrepidXJ has a trailer, and isnt insuring or regestering his junk - it lives on the trailer.

I would not reccomend this for someone looking to improve flex, or improve ride quality on the street or anything of the sort...

I agree with Goatman that the remaining frame side UCA mount out to be heavily re-enforced, and the bushing on the axle side of the UCA ought to be replaced with a hard joint (heim, johnny joint, Rubicon Express Joint)...

My spring break is coming, there is a good chance ill get to this...
 
XJ_ranger said:
anyone running a 3 link with stock arm locations on the body?

Im thinking on removing the upper link on the drivers side, and running RE super flex joints everywhere...

My axle mounts are raised 2" over stock, but other than that, same positioning...

My LCA bushing at the axle end are shot, and my axle moves about 2" forward and back on the freeway giving some serious deathwobble issues...:scared:


Scrappy - i know you did this for a while, how did it work out?
Click to expand...


Which axle mounts are raised, lower or upper? You need to make sure you've got good seperation at the axle end.

Like Jason said, Hinkley runs a beefed up drivers side upper, stock frame side, 2.5" JJ mount welded to the pumpkin.
Couchy's running a 3 link with the Currie JJ conversion, I don't whcih side his upper is on though.
Dave's running the Currie JJ conversion on the passenger side.
Ron, Gaut & I are running mid arms, passenger upper with a 2.5" JJ.

Lots of ways to do it.

As to street use, why not, as long as it's built well it well there will be no funny handling issues whatsoever.

P
 
Paul S said:
Which axle mounts are raised, lower or upper? You need to make sure you've got good seperation at the axle end.
Click to expand...
both. I basically measured the stock XJ suspention mounts on the 30, and made my mounts on my 44 to move the axle forward about 1.5" and moved the mounts up about 2"
Paul S said:
Like Jason said, Hinkley runs a beefed up drivers side upper, stock frame side, 2.5" JJ mount welded to the pumpkin.
Couchy's running a 3 link with the Currie JJ conversion, I don't whcih side his upper is on though.
Dave's running the Currie JJ conversion on the passenger side.
Ron, Gaut & I are running mid arms, passenger upper with a 2.5" JJ.

Lots of ways to do it.

As to street use, why not, as long as it's built well it well there will be no funny handling issues whatsoever.

P
Click to expand...

sounds good enough... spring break is coming...

:read:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Test fitting RC 4.5" long arm on 2000 XJ
Replies
10
Views
4K
RCP Phx
R
ShoeterMcgav
Long arm DIY build questions
2 3
Replies
49
Views
10K
ShoeterMcgav
ShoeterMcgav
M
Replace stock front axle suspension arms without lifting
Replies
13
Views
2K
mhead
M
D
Build: "full body" tons and 40s
2 3 4
Replies
65
Views
17K
DrivnXJ
D
T
Death Wobble Questions (I searched first)
Replies
11
Views
3K
Anak
Anak
Back
Top