Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum!
If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page.
Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
new stroker on its way and want to double check on a couple things. (1) run non detergent straight 30? (2) for cam break in, after oil pressure comes up hold rpms at 2000 for 15 minutes? (3) after cam broke in change oil? and what type and weight? titan 4.6 stroker.
1. anyhting cheap will be fine, straight 30 should do the job.
2. when oil pressure comes up maintain rpm between 2k-3500.
I like to vary it up and down a little, the point of cam break in is to run it higher rpm to keep oil pressure higher.
3. I also would hold off on the first oil change until around 300 miles. Then drop it again at 1500...after that regular intervals.
Hope there isnt a Crane cam in the motor cause it wont last more than 30,000 miles.
I would use Rotella T oil for break in and change it after the 20min at 2000rpm. A very large majority of motor oil on the shelf now does not have the zinc and other chemicals needed to protect a high performance flat tappet cam. After break in, change oil again at 100 miles and then at 500 miles then again at 1000 miles. After 1000 miles change it like normal. There is a post over on the Jeepsunlmited Speed Freaks forum called The Ultimate Motor Oil Thread and it covers oil types and what is good and bad for a flat tappet cam.
Once you have the cam broken in, run the motor through the RPM range but not WOT and not for extended periods in higher RPMs. The rings need to be seated so run the motor up to 4k or 5k then let the motor slow back down to idle. Doing this several times will let the rings seat. During the first 1000 miles do not keep the motor at a constant RPM like long highway driving. The variying RPMs will help set the rings and not make a "groove" in which they will break into.
2500 rpm for 20 min 15-40 oil. change it immediatly after cam break in to 5-30. change at 100 miles, change to 5-30 mobil 1 synthetic at 500, 1500, 5000 and then every 5000 after that, youll have a 500,000 mile motor if you do that.
as far as the crane failures its due to heavy valve springs. stock ones you should be ok.
I would keep the synthetic out. I have been using Rotealla 15/40 since my first or second oil change. I have a crane cam and 20K on my stroker now. Not sure how long it will last but it shows no signs of any trouble.
IMO I would do the cam break in, change the oil, then drive it like you stole it. They need to be broken in like they will be driven. I drive mine like its a lamborghini so I drove it hard right out of the box.
I guess this is a bit of a hijack, but it's a question I've always had when reading engine break in...
When folks say "Change oil at 100, 500, and 1000 miles" do they mean drive for 100 miles, then change it 400 miles later, and an additional 500 miles after that? Or is it change the oil when you've driven 100 miles, again 500 miles later, and then again 1000 miles later?
I know it's picky, and maybe I'm an idiot; but it's a difference of changing the oil 3 times in 1000 miles, and 3 times in 1600 miles.
new stroker on its way and want to double check on a couple things. (1) run non detergent straight 30? (2) for cam break in, after oil pressure comes up hold rpms at 2000 for 15 minutes? (3) after cam broke in change oil? and what type and weight? titan 4.6 stroker.
Lets us know how the whole engine goes over time too. Reliability and economy etc compared to before and after the swap after it has fully broken in. Did you choose one for best economy or high hp when you ordered it?
Most strokers are torquers and very few are built for high HP and high rpm. My stroker started to make a mild tappet noise after 30000 miles and by 34000 miles, I had to remove the Crane cam/lifters 'cause two lifters and one cam lobe (no.6 cylinder) were damaged. I went back to the stock cam/lifters/springs and I've been happy ever since. I also went back to using an SL rated mineral or semi-synthetic oil. I was using Mobil 1 from 3000 miles to the cam swap. That could have contributed to the cam/lifter failure but I'm not convinced of that.
Anyway, I love my (now) stock cam stroker. It's not a high HP screamer but it's definitely a torque monster, making almost 90% of maximum torque at just 1500rpm and still pulling well to the 5200rpm rev limiter.
___________________________ The sleeper:1992 XJ Laredo - 4.6L Stroker - 5-speed AX15 manual Dyno - 198hp@4650rpm, 254lbft@3550rpm at wheels = 245hp/306lbft at flywheel Websites -Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks
i went more the rout dyno did, with more leaning twards torque and 5200rpm range. cant remember the cam type off hand but not a crane, i remember that much. bought the re 4.5 lift, shocks, 4.6 stroker, 59.9 bored throttle body, 24lb injectors, complete exhaust from header to tail pipe and new air intake system..........still waiting on the engine and lift. spent what i could get through this sight as well as my membership. if it wasn't for all of you that have helped, i would still be racking my brain on a few things. soon as i get the motor in etc, i will let you know how its doing...thanks steve
I use straight 30 Castrol HD with a can of GM Engine Oil Suppliment during break-in.....the engine must be set up ready to run....a lot of cranking with the starter trying to get the engine to run is enough to damage a lobe (no oil splash...the lobes and lifter faces are splash lubed....and you don't get splash at cranking speed....the lube you put on the lobes will be wiped off by lifter pressure...dry lobes=damaged lobes)...run the engine at a minimum of 2500 until the oil temp matches coolant temp...
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=780032
ok i read this thread that MrShoeBoy posted and was wondering what about stock 4.0s. Should i be using oil with a SL rating. i am using Valvoline Max Life 10w30 that has a SM rating right now. Is this something to worry about or is this only for strokers.
The oil issue isn't about stroker motors, its about camshafts...stroker or not...if you go the Comp Cam or crane's websites, they warn you to not use synthetic oil.....the best oil for the money right now is Rotella or Delo 400...both are cheap and available everywhere....Just follow the good advice on how to break in the cam....assuming everything else is ok, like lifter preload and checking to be sure you don't have coil bind on the valvesprings.
If someone would come up with a roller cam setup....this would cease to be an issue....
i was search for something else when i came across this thread. I was just wondering if i should be using SL oil in my stock 4.0 with 140,000 miles, i am not breaking a new motor in.
