I bought an '89 XJ...

Hello Everyone....This is my first post since I joined 2 months ago.
I've spent most of that time reading new and old threads, and trying
to learn everything I can about my XJ.
OK, Here's the deal....I recently saved my XJ from going to the shredder.
This Jeep belonged to a buddy at work, and was my ride home everyday for
2 years. Not once during that time did it fail us, but many times when
he started it, it sounded like it had no oil. I asked him when the last time
he checked the oil, and he didn't know. He owned the Jeep from 2001 to 2006,and during that time did little or no maintenance. We live 4/5 miles from work and he never drove it on the highway. Around 10/2006 he started having start/stall issues. He bought a new vehicle and left the XJ sitting with no tags. The city marked it as "abandoned" and would have towed it in 3 days.I gave him $50 for it and he drove it to my house, where it has been sittingunder a car cover since.

This is what I know so far:

1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer
4.0 I-6
Asin-Warner AW4 Automatic
NP-231 Command-Trac
Dana-30 Vac-Disc front axle
Dana-35 rear axle

The clearcoat is peeling, and the paint is faded, but there is no visible rust.
Lotsa red RTV around the valvecover. Came with extra set of newer jeep rims....
Game plan is, once it warms up outside,
do a leak-down and compression test. If it is within spec, then drain and
replace all fluids, new plugs-cap-wires & rotor, new CPS & rebuild or eliminate
NNS, see if that cures the start/stall issues.

Sound about right?

Awesome deal for the money. Some people swear that rattle on start up is main bearings...some say its old lifters taking time to pump up...rev it to about 3200 rpm listening for bottom end rattle...If it runs smooth dont worry about the leak down/compression tests, it might only give you numbers you dont want to see. Clean out the CCV hose and grommet in the valve cover and see if you can get all the vacuum hoses routed right...also check to see if the nipple for the CCV hose at the intake is clear. Check the oil filter adapter housing for leaks too...got to get that little undercarraige lubrication problem in check
A lot of times it looks like the engine has excessive blow bye its not getting the proper vacuum to the crankcase and is blowing oil out.

If it was mine...and good job saving it

yellowxj said:

............dont worry about the leak down/compression tests, it might only give you numbers you dont want to see.

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:laugh: Yeah....you're probably right!

....

When I replace the VC gasket, I'm going to replace ALL the vacuum lines.
A buddy at work, in the Maintenance Dept, says he can hook me up with some of the blue silicone stock we use at work (vac thru heater size)

Thanks for the input....:wave1:

Two areas that are regular problem areas are loose, dirty, corroded ground wire connections between the battery, engine, and firewall and the TPS. There is one ground wire run from the engine to the firewall on both sides of the engine block. The one near the oil dip stick is critical to the ignition computer (Called an ECU) as there are several sensor wires and the control computer wires which are all pilled up together under that oily mess of an aeea. They get dirty and loose and casue idle speed problems stalling, jerky acceleration....Just pull the oil filter, and get to those wire connections and clean them first. Then change the oil and filter.

A tune up, including plugs, wires, cap and rotor to start with sound like the next thing to do.

Another usual suspect for the stalling or speed problems is the TPS, Throttle Postion Sensor, on the front right side of the throttle body. Get a multi meter and a manual (or search here for "Throttle Postion Sensor test" data) and test and calibrate your TPS. If it has a bad spot (it is a variable resistor and should have a smooth change in resistance as you move the throttle) replace the TPS.

Once you have done that there are a few other items that might need testing, like the O2 sensor.

Ecomike said:

Two areas that are regular problem areas are loose, dirty, corroded ground wire connections between the battery, engine, and firewall and the TPS..........

Click to expand...

I've read alot about the RENIX ground issues.... another area where my buddy at work says he can help....welding cable...we order it at work by the spool.....I plan on going this route...

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

I also have a nice DMM (Fluke 112RMS).

......I'm just keepin' my fingers crossed that the whole lower end won't explode...:flame:


Thanks for the info..

Part of that rattle may be the rockers, my 90 blew up at 140k(previos owner ran it without coolant). When I pulled it down for a rebuild I found that the fulcrums had worn almost all the way through the rockers. I never heard it run like that since it was blown when I bought it but it must have made a heck of a racket. While you have the valve cover off, remove and inspect a pair of rockers/fulcrums just for reassurance. I was able to get a full set of rockers/fulcrums/push rods for around $120, so its not a major expense if they are needed.

Do you have the RENIX FSM? This will help you with the other "Gremlins".

Where are you at in VA?

Black_Dog said:

I've read alot about the RENIX ground issues.... another area where my buddy at work says he can help....welding cable...we order it at work by the spool.....I plan on going this route...

http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

I also have a nice DMM (Fluke 112RMS).

......I'm just keepin' my fingers crossed that the whole lower end won't explode...:flame:


Thanks for the info..

Click to expand...

I would worry more about good clean corrosion free contacts between the wire and connector and between the connector and the ground location than I would wire size (i.e. welding cable). OOOO wire will do you little good if the ground surface is rusted where the connector makes contact.

By the way I will trade you, an even swap, your recent jeep purchase for mine if you want . I just paid $450 for a red 87, 2WD Pioneer with no transmission and a blown engine. I must be crazy! Time for me to join Jeeps Anonomous! Well at least I don't have to worry about getting this one running!:laugh3:

In other words you got a hell of a deal!

Ecomike said:

I would worry more about good clean corrosion free contacts between the wire and connector and between the connector and the ground location than I would wire size (i.e. welding cable). OOOO wire will do you little good if the ground surface is rusted where the connector makes contact.

By the way I will trade you, an even swap, your recent jeep purchase for mine if you want . I just paid $450 for a red 87, 2WD Pioneer with no transmission and a blown engine. I must be crazy! Time for me to join Jeeps Anonomous! Well at least I don't have to worry about getting this one running!:laugh3:

In other words you got a hell of a deal!

Click to expand...

In mine and Blackdogs home town XJ's are everywhere and cheap. Even though Chattanooga TN is the self proclaimed XJ capital I've spent time there and theyve got nothing on Roanoke. But he did get a smokin' deal none the less.

xjtrailrider said:

Part of that rattle may be the rockers, my 90 blew up at 140k(previos owner ran it without coolant). When I pulled it down for a rebuild I found that the fulcrums had worn almost all the way through the rockers. I never heard it run like that since it was blown when I bought it but it must have made a heck of a racket. While you have the valve cover off, remove and inspect a pair of rockers/fulcrums just for reassurance. I was able to get a full set of rockers/fulcrums/push rods for around $120, so its not a major expense if they are needed.

Do you have the RENIX FSM? This will help you with the other "Gremlins".

Where are you at in VA?

Click to expand...

Yeah, I'll keep my eye on that when I'm in there.
Thanks!

Starcity............:us:

Battery terminals & cables look pretty rotten...

Option 1.
Buy pre-fab stuff at autozone etc.
I end up with whatever they have.......

Option 2.
Build my own out of higher quality materials....for the same or less $

I guess a "running" XJ for $50 would always be a good deal......
But.....I have OCD:eye: and tend to overbuild everything I work on.....
Soooo........I'm trying to make sure the foundation is good before I spend countless hours repairing/upgrading this thing

Thanks Ecomike!:wave:

Ecomike said:

I would worry more about good clean corrosion free contacts between the wire and connector and between the connector and the ground location than I would wire size (i.e. welding cable). OOOO wire will do you little good if the ground surface is rusted where the connector makes contact.

By the way I will trade you, an even swap, your recent jeep purchase for mine if you want . I just paid $450 for a red 87, 2WD Pioneer with no transmission and a blown engine. I must be crazy! Time for me to join Jeeps Anonomous! Well at least I don't have to worry about getting this one running!:laugh3:

In other words you got a hell of a deal!

Click to expand...