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Borla Header failure

Bones

Bones

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mid Missouri
Since there have been some threads on headers lately, I thought I'd show what mine looked like when I pulled it off last week.

This is a Borla that I installed when I built my stroker a few years ago. I had it wrapped so I figure it had something to do with it, but when I bought it I was told it could stand up to the wrapping.

I knew it was leaking badly, but it was far worse than I expected when I got the wrap off it. It had multiple cracks in almost every joint area with several blown out areas as well.

Long story short, when I called Borla I got the "no receipt-no warranty" excuse for not coming across with a new one.

I had it TIG'ed and used Thermoseal where the TIG couldn't get. Everything is nice and quiet again, but it's only a temporary fix. Not sure what header I'll go back to. It will probably be another Borla without the wrap as I know the front suspension will clear it, but you can bet I'll keep the receipt this time around!

See it here: http://public.fotki.com/Bones/temp/tech_temp/
Oh, you can see my failed Crane cam as well (it had three lifters/lobes going bad). Last time I use Syn oil in a flat tappet motor.

Bones :skull1:

 
I had the same problem. And the same "No receipt, No warranty" excuse. I had mine wrapped too, but i only had it wrapped for maybe a month or two.
And the same crack in the same spot. A month after welding that up i had the O2 sensor bung fall out. Welded that up and so far no more breakage.

Dingo
 
Dingo509 said:
I had the same problem. And the same "No receipt, No warranty" excuse. I had mine wrapped too, but i only had it wrapped for maybe a month or two.
And the same crack in the same spot. A month after welding that up i had the O2 sensor bung fall out. Welded that up and so far no more breakage.

Dingo
Click to expand...

Did they tell you the header would hold up to wrapping also?

Mine was cracked everywhere:



Bones :skull1:
 
I didn't ask them before i did it, but AFTER i did it i called and they said it shouldn't bother it.

I see you had the O2 sensor about to blow out too.

Dingo
 
Dingo509 said:
I didn't ask them before i did it, but AFTER i did it i called and they said it shouldn't bother it.

I see you had the O2 sensor about to blow out too.

Dingo
Click to expand...

Actually that was the quality of their weld. I didn't see any cracks around it.
The guy that TIG'ed my header said the failure was due to the wire welding Borla does. He said it's faster and cheaper than TIG but causes weakening along the margins of the bead. He knows his stuff. I met him back in 1990 when he was doing custom welding. Now his company builds custom fire trucks and rescue vehicles.

Bones :skull1:

 
man, you'd think with the money those things cost they'd would be able to handle a fair amount of abuse.

id go with a cheaper alternative. maybe one of those stainless bank's knock-offs off ebay or APN. that way you wont be out so much money next time this happens. seems like with these I6's there will always be a next time.
 
Pacesetter headers do the same thing. I had cracks develop where the tubes combined and at the plate where it meets the head.
 
Not wanting to start anything, but how did that header get bent up like that?
 
"There is an inherent problem with the one piece design. The root of the problem is the big long pieces of metal pipes that extended to different directions which are ultimately welded to a single point. When these pieces get hot, they start expanding, pushing, pulling, and ultimately twisting each other. However, they are all welded tight. Something has to give to relieve the stress of the expansion. It is usually the welding that gives."
 
I had original header for 200.000 miles no problem. I was idiot and replaced it with Banks. Cracked after two weeks. Got new Banks cracked after few months. Got Borla Cracked after 5 years. I am going to get original one from junk. Welds on Banks are really terrible. Stay away from expensive stuff. It is not good just because in all magazines say so.
 
hot_rod_hooligans said:
"There is an inherent problem with the one piece design. The root of the problem is the big long pieces of metal pipes that extended to different directions which are ultimately welded to a single point. When these pieces get hot, they start expanding, pushing, pulling, and ultimately twisting each other. However, they are all welded tight. Something has to give to relieve the stress of the expansion. It is usually along the edge of the welding that gives."
Click to expand...

Bingo. Although I changed the last statement.

The lack of any sort of flex pipe in the down pipe is also a major contributor. Once bolted to the down pipe the manifold and exhaust are essentially one ridged assembly.

Another pretty dumb engineering part by DC. :looney:
 
I ran a Pacesetter header and catback on one of my Mazdas- I was not impressed with the finish, fitment, or durability, but this has been 10 years ago.

If you're replacing the exhaust manifold due to cracking, replace your motor and trans mounts first.
 
No problems w/ Borla and have had it for over 5 years(not subject to offroad flexing though). They didn't honor the warranty on the muffler I blew out(was my fault after all).
 
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