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transfer case drop - after 2.5 OME lift

N

ny_busboy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ny
i just have my 2.5 OME lift installed on my 2001 xj. the lift kit comes with the transfer case drop when i purchased it from quadratec. i do not know if i have to have the tcase drop installed. i do not have any vibrations but i noticed that i have some humming sound when running more than 60mph. i just want to make sure i am not breaking anything which might cost me more in the future.

and also, when we tried to install it, we can not figure out how to remove the screw as shown i the picture. i know there are a lot of questions and articles already but did not see anything specific how to remove the screw.

t-case_stud.jpg
 
and also the drop kit comes with 4 screws + 1 screw withe rounded metal. anybody know what is that rounded metal for? i saw the transfer case and it is being held by only 2 screws both sides. what is the third screw and rounded metal for?
 
I dont know about the "rounded metal" you describe but the studs can be removed by double nutting them or if you live in the rust belt, a big pair of vise grips. Your stuff doesnt look too eat up. try the double nut.
 
dumb question, but is all that a t-case drop kit includes is some longer bolts an spacers to drop the x-member? If it is, I'm just going to machine my own in the workshop here and buy some longer bolts if I don't have any already.
 
bcsavage said:
dumb question, but is all that a t-case drop kit includes is some longer bolts an spacers to drop the x-member? If it is, I'm just going to machine my own in the workshop here and buy some longer bolts if I don't have any already.
Click to expand...

Generally thats all they are. Some do have relocation brackets for the linkage. I made a 1/2" drop out of bar stock.
 
hmm, cause i've got 4.5" lift in my xj and there's some vibration coming from the rear. Figure it's the DS angle that's the culprit and wondering if a 1" home-brew t-case drop would help. I know every jeep is different but it can't hurt. I take it I just support the x-member with a jack, undo the bolts, lower it down, slide in the spacers and bolt things back up? looking at though it seems more complicated due to tranny/t-case interface :S But I'm a newb so what do I know right? lol
 
Just look at the motor mounts and how the front of the motor tilts up after a TC drop. puts extra stress on the mounts, and m one of my rad. hoses just barely rubbed on the hood. I ended up having to weld a nut to the stud to get it out. The double nut method didnt work, it was that seized in. There is a kit that dosent make you pull the studs, not sure who makes it.
 
so, tilting motor bad right? I mean of course I'd go SYE if it weren't for the higher cost involved. *shrug* this vibration is annoying though...
 
ny_busboy said:
bcsavage - looks like this turned out to be your own post....
Click to expand...
I'm not real sure what the rounded metal does either man, maybe they didn't mean to include it with your kit or it was meant for something else. Did you get the studs removed? I would try double nutting them if not. I did that on my bros 01 here in Iowa and they came out no problem.
 
RenixPower said:
I'm not real sure what the rounded metal does either man, maybe they didn't mean to include it with your kit or it was meant for something else. Did you get the studs removed? I would try double nutting them if not. I did that on my bros 01 here in Iowa and they came out no problem.
Click to expand...


Thanks Renixpower but I am not really sure how to do the double nutting. I am not much knowledgeable mechanically wise. can you explain it to me on how exactly I can do it? the screw is inside the metal body and there is no way for to remove it from top or side or from any other place.
 
ny_busboy said:
Thanks Renixpower but I am not really sure how to do the double nutting. I am not much knowledgeable mechanically wise. can you explain it to me on how exactly I can do it? the screw is inside the metal body and there is no way for to remove it from top or side or from any other place.
Click to expand...
Okay here's the whole thing. All you do is go to your local hardware store. Get two nuts that are the thread of that screw/bolt/stud whatever you want to call it. Thread both nuts all the way to the top. Then put an open end wrench on the top nut and back them off. The top nut pushes against the other one making it not turn and in turn it spins the stud out also. Let me know if you have any other questions. Like I said it's always worked well for me.
 
ny_busboy said:
bcsavage - looks like this turned out to be your own post....
Click to expand...
lol, I'm "questiony" :D

and yah, double nutting is just using two nuts back-to-back as a way to put some leverage onto a stud. Get them both threaded on there, then while holding the one closest the end of the stud, back the first one into it till she's tight. If you are lucky the hex's will aligh and you can straddle them both with a wrench/socket. If not, just use the first one you put on to take the torque to get the stud out.

*someone should really make quick-vids of these mechanically "tricks" for those that don't know, it's kinda hard to explain clearly using text*
 
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