4.5 or 6.5?

[Douger]

Im currently considering a 4.5" long arm Rock Krawker lift but I see that the 6.5" long arm isnt much more money. (at least as far as the lift itself goes) So what other considerations am I going to have to make if I up to a 6.5? Are the larger tires going to cost a ton more? Are there going to be new mechanical issues, gearing issues, or handling issues Ill have to address now vs if I stayed with the 4.5"?

I already plan on going with the SYE with CV driveshaft and the Rock Krawler X-factor steering.

[AZXJ]

here's a little insite..

6.5 lift.. will require steering upgrade. (I won't sell the RK steering).
Since you will be able to run bigger tires with the 6.5 inch lift you'll then need to get lower gears.. average 500.00 per axle more if you add a locker, plus install.. obviously the SYE is going to be needed as well as a new driveshaft.
around $850.00 installed.

4.5 inch lift with 31x10.5, 32x11.5 or 33x10.5's will work well as long as you have 3.55 gearing.. Overdrive will be questionable with the 33's..
You may not need the SYE if you go 4.5 and have a 96 and older XJ.
rotating the pinion and running a YJ yoke will help ..

hope this helps
Dave
480-288-4213

[aszaunmi]

I am not an expert and I am new to this XJ thing. However I have noticed some AZ folks have had problems with the RK steering. If I remember correctly some of the problems are related to some bracketry on the passenger side of the axle. I would ensure you do your research before going the 6.5 inch route. I am currently doing at about 7.5 inches. Here is a list of some of the larger items I have done or I am waiting for parts one.

T&T Y-Link Upgrade - about 900 bucks
T&T Track Bar and mount - about 240 bucks - parts should ship to me this week.
Front and rear springs about 450 bucks
Down East Offroad Steering - about 1000 bucks - parts should ship to me this week.
Alloy axles F/R 4.56:1 with ARB's - about 3000-4000
Extended Breaklines 120
231 with Sye - 250
Shocks - Not purchased yet - est 150-200 bucks
You would also want to stiffen up your unibody some how. That cost can range from a few 100 to whatever you wanted to spend.

Dave (AZXJ above) at Desert fab is going to be doing an EXO for me and I have not talked cash with him on this yet.

This is list of some of the big hitters that I have done to mine. Yes, some of the things could be done at lower cost. I am learning as I go and like kits so I pay the price for using them. I am sitting at about $6,000 to $7,000 not counting the cost of my exo or other little things that you end up needing along the way.


Have fun... Andrew

[dj's 2000 xj]

With my full spring 4.5" short arm lift (actually over 5"), I didnt need any sye on my 2000. So, maybe that will help you budget a little bit. All are different though.

[AZXJ]

With my full spring 4.5" short arm lift (actually over 5"), I didnt need any sye on my 2000. So, maybe that will help you budget a little bit. All are different though.


How much T/C drop did you add ?? If you didn't you are one of the very few lucky ones.. Most if not all 97+ XJ's need the SYE with over 2 inches of lift.

[aszaunmi]

When I was running my RE6130 lift on my 1990 I had a 1" xfer drop and an extended slip yoke things worked ok. If I were to do it again I would have just done the Sye when I went with the 4.5 inches of lift just to take the worry out of my mind.

Z

[Douger]

Dave,

How badly will the 4.5" lift with 32's effect my gas milage. I just got a new job and my commute is 60 miles round trip so Im not happy about that. Also if the RK steering is bad what other alternatives are there?

[AZXJ]

It's a lifted brick, not much can be done with milage... Gears will help the milage some..

ZJ steering upgrade, Currie steering or DesertFab custom over the knuckle..
These all carry diffrent price tags... Ours being the most expensive due to over the knuckle.. Agian, I will not sell the RK steering due to failures..

Dave

[Douger]

Yeah I know the aerodynamics are that of a bus but I guess I dont want to make an already bad situation worse. If Im getting 15 mpg now and with the 4.5" and 32's I can expect 10 mpg then Im not sure about the lift even though I really would like to get into wheeling. That would run me ~$10 per day or an extra $200 per month in gas. If we are talking going from 15mpg to 14 mpg then no biggie.

[texassteel]

if you want to go with something bigger go with the clayton 6.5'' long arm best kit on the market period. if you bend one of his arms he will give you a new one free of charge i think the kit is around $900 or a whole complete its around $2000 www.claytonoffroad.com (http://www.claytonoffroad.com). I just talked to a guy about this kit and I would def go with it if you have the money due to the free replacement. goodluck on your decision

[Wounded XJ]

Yeah I know the aerodynamics are that of a bus but I guess I dont want to make an already bad situation worse. If Im getting 15 mpg now and with the 4.5" and 32's I can expect 10 mpg then Im not sure about the lift even though I really would like to get into wheeling. That would run me ~$10 per day or an extra $200 per month in gas. If we are talking going from 15mpg to 14 mpg then no biggie.

I have 6.5" of lift with 33's. I was getting 19 mpg prior to the lift and I get 17 mpg now. I have a 5 speed in mine with 3:07 gears. I hope to have new gears installed in a week or two, once I get all my bumpers and sliders installed.

[vwkaferman]

I hate that this forum or the "other" one doesn't have a direct reply feature, so you know who is replying to you.

As you probably saw, Dave, I'm not running a SYE on my XJ, but Am using drop spacers for the crossbrace. I hate running that, but it works for what I have, and it's cheap.

I'm so so in the Vibs department. I COULD use a SYE, but feel at this point money is beter spent on other aspects of the Heep. Which I reckon is the next step, I'm sure I'll be talkin to ya about rock sliders! ;)

James

[TUFFXJ]

IMHO 4.5-5.5 with 33's is perfect for an XJ. Any more than that and you are really adding ALOT more stress to the Uni-booty and the drive train. Now UNLESS you plan on doing axle swaps and tubing everything as well as adding ALOT of extra reinforcement, i think 6+ and 33+ on a stock chassic is way to much for an XJ if you really plan to wheel it hard. If you must go 6.5+ DO THE SYE it really is needed. Can you get by without it, yes but its not right I dont care what people say you WILL have vibes and you WILL eat u-joints like candy as well as KILL your seals on the T-case. Not to mention the slip splines on the shaft from the vibes. I am one of those that thinks if you can't afford to lift proper save till you can. I run 5-5.5 with 33's and I love the combo it really "Fits" the XJ. If you really want more do yourself and favor and go with another base for your build cuz an XJ just isnt what you should be using. Now don't get me wrong I LOVE my XJ and it takes me anyplace I want to go but with REAL WORLD wheeling you will quickly realize the limits of the XJ chassis. Now can one be built, yes but look at what it takes to reinforce to the same starting point a true frame/body combo has. What ever you do, do it right the first time, try not to shortcut things and ask others cuz I guarantee you will find from people here what works and what doesn’t BEFORE you spend your hard earned cash on something you will be replacing in 3-4 months wishing you would have done it a different way..(I preach from first hand experience) I am also open to any questions I started with a stock 87 and have done EVERYTHING myself on my build and 8+k later I have a pretty good rig I think and have learned A LOT about what works and what doesn’t (As have many others here) Good luck and most of all HAVE FUN!!!

[vwkaferman]

I couldn't agree more, after reading lately about Xj's, chassis flex, trimming, etc...I really do think I'm just gonna stop at 33's. Oh well if I can't do 5.0+ trails, I'll get a different rig. I drive mine to work.

Check out this thread on XJ lifts (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=906770), I'm REALLY thinking about running this and not looking back. It's not that expensive. I might couple it with the TNT long arm conversion, but we'll see.

James

[matus2]

Snarky and I just installed a 4.5 on my 91 xj. The kit came with a transfer case spacer but we didn't install it. Before nor after allignment there is absolutly no vibration even at highway speeds. This is with 32 11.50 15 BFG All Terrains. So if anyone wants a transfer case spacer....

Anyways here is a pic before allignment next to snarky's xj with a factory 1 inch lift.

http://slovakdesign.com/jeep/DSC03596small.jpg

And here is side pic. I have a heavy sub box, some tools and 2 optimas in the back... Well plus the tire on top I guess... That's why its sagging even with the new leaf pack.

http://slovakdesign.com/jeep/DSC03593small.jpg

[TUFFXJ]

Snarky and I just installed a 4.5 on my 91 xj. The kit came with a transfer case spacer but we didn't install it. Before nor after allignment there is absolutly no vibration even at highway speeds. This is with 32 11.50 15 BFG All Terrains. So if anyone wants a transfer case spacer....

Anyways here is a pic before allignment next to snarky's xj with a factory 1 inch lift.

http://slovakdesign.com/jeep/DSC03596small.jpg

And here is side pic. I have a heavy sub box, some tools and 2 optimas in the back... Well plus the tire on top I guess... That's why its sagging even with the new leaf pack.

http://slovakdesign.com/jeep/DSC03593small.jpg
You may think im crazy but rear air shocks fixed my rear ride height issues loaded for the trails. I have moved my shock mounts even with the axle tubes, with 5" of lift and in doing this stock shock length is the correct size for my rig. Cheap air shocks in rear and Procomp MX6's in front...works well

Oh and for those that wonder how in flexes..GREAT...it helps believe it on not. I read about this on some of the Toy IFSers doing it to increase articulation on their front ends

[matus2]

I'll consider that... For now I will take the sub box out for the trails (thats 60lbs) and move the tool case behind the front passenger seat. that should help with the weight on the rear. My shocks are all 200 psi Nitrogen Charged...

[AZXJ]

I hate that this forum or the "other" one doesn't have a direct reply feature, so you know who is replying to you.

As you probably saw, Dave, I'm not running a SYE on my XJ, but Am using drop spacers for the crossbrace. I hate running that, but it works for what I have, and it's cheap.

I'm so so in the Vibs department. I COULD use a SYE, but feel at this point money is beter spent on other aspects of the Heep. Which I reckon is the next step, I'm sure I'll be talkin to ya about rock sliders! ;)

James

James, hit the quote button.. :D

spacers on the crossmember work just fine.. but also allow the crossmember to be exposed to more trail damage.. This hobby isn't cheap and doing it right the first time is hard, trust me I know.. I've been there many many years ago.. I had maybe 300 bucks into my 5.5 inch lift back in the day and wheeled open with 3.07 gears for 7+ years.. I had fun a ran alot of great trails.. I was limited to where I could go due to my setup tho and I did break a few parts due to being cheap.. bottom line, do what you can afford and br gracious on your drivetrain, because in the end the drivetrain gets you home not the body.. :D

[AZXJ]

I'll consider that... For now I will take the sub box out for the trails (thats 60lbs) and move the tool case behind the front passenger seat. that should help with the weight on the rear. My shocks are all 200 psi Nitrogen Charged...



Check your front ball joints too. looks like the left side might be due for a replacement..

Dave
480-288-4213

[cwstnsko]

....... So if anyone wants a transfer case spacer....


I'd hang onto the t-case drop kit until everthing gets settled in and you decide whether you're happy with the rear setup. If you end up adding a longer shackle to level it out, you may end up needing the drop......


Back on the original topic, my personal preference would be to keep the lift lower to keep the CG down and minimize the need for expensive upgrades, and use fender trimming and proper bumpstops to allow you to run the size tire you want.

Again just my personal opinion, but I think 33x10.50 with about 4.5" backspacing is a great combo to get good performance without a lot of lift. That's what I plan to run when I get re-geared. I have the RE 3.5" kit which measures at about 4.25" of lift. Proper bumpstops, trimming and possibly 2 sets of rear TJ flares should get me where I want to be :)

[bigglee]

"James, hit the quote button"

[XJmania030]

I would go with as low as possible and keep the CG down. Xj are already top heavy.