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PITA never-ending motor oil leak- help!?!?

xuv-this

bondo afficianado
Location
southwest VA.
ok guys i have an oil leak that won't go away, and i'm about to take a friggin hammer to the thing. i swear that if i have to coat the whole motor in jb weld the damn thing is gonna not leak. so far i've replaced the rear main, pan gasket, valve cover gasket, oil press sending unit, and filter boss seal set. it now looks like it's also coming out of the dipstick handle:flamemad: and that's got rtv in it drying right now. i ran it earlier today and saw(from underneath) bubbles slowly coming out of that damn sending unit (that seam where the plastic part meets the metal that screws in)- this is my third one in a year. the first one was from autozone, the last 2(including the 4 month old unit that is on there) were from carquest. before i fork it out at the dealership, has anybody had a brand new OEM sending unit leak? is there another problem spot that i should look for? why the hell would it come out the top of the dipstick? any info whatsoever would be much appreciated.
 
the motor has been rebuilt and has about 20k. i know these motors have commom blowby, but do i need to get a compression check? is this a possible sign of a more severe problem?
 
I would definitely get a compression check and do a cylinder leak down check also if there is anything questionable on the compressions.

My little Datsun was blowing oil pretty bad and had 60#, 45#, 15#, 15#, 60#, 80# and still ran although barely.
 
I agree with Rust Heap, do the compression test. You may check the CCV hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner if you haven't already. Sometimes they get clogged and let pressure build. I have to clean mine every so often. My '84 FSJ was blowing oil out of the filler tube into the air cleaner, compression was between 90-100 in all but #8 cylinder which was 0. Took engine apart to find a piece of piston missing.
 
I agree on the CCV system, go for the compression check and write down the numbers, store them in the owners manual. Then pull the CCV line and see if the bubbles go away on the sender. With the engine being so recently rebuilt you should not have a big sludge build up in the head, that sludge build up moves the oil that gets pumped into the head closer to the CCV tubes letting the CCV tubes suck it up and push it to the filter. A short term fix to that problem is to trim a 1/4-1/2 inch of the CCV so it's not so close to the flowing oil. If those CCV tubes are blocked or, like arteries, are plugged, it will push internal engine pressures up to alot of PSI and that pressure has to go somewhere.
 
I have some questions.

What oil are, have you been using? Brand, type and weight(s).

What is the oil pressure gauge reading at Idle, cruising speed, cold, hot).

Have you checked the distributor for oil leaks (gasket)?

Do you see oil leaking anywhere in particular other than the dipstick and pressure sensor now?

What is oil leak rate? Gallons/xxxmiles?

Pull the small CCV line only at the valve cover and tell us if gas is escaping at the small valve cover hole where that line attaches. If not, then pull the other valve cover hose, the large one at the air filter box, seal of the large hose end (air tight) that you just pulled of the air filter box and recheck the valve covers small CCV hole for leaking gases. IF there is gas leaking, venting, at the small hole try and quantify it for us!

Does sound like you have been getting bad aftermarket pressure sensors (senders). I hear the Stealership oil pressure senders are much better and cost about a 1/4 of the cost of aftermarket ones!!!
 
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