did the locks change over the years?

On my 96, I found a small slot on the side of the door where I could shoot some graphite powder in to fix'em up when they started sticking. I was trying to do this on a co-worker's 94, but couldn't find said slot. I didn't look very long though.

I don't remember, but I may have also squirted some inside the door panel directly onto the lock button(the mechanical one, not the power one) itself. Would that help?

On the side of the 94 drivers door there is a plastic button that you can remove and you will have direct access to the backside of the door latch botton, you can spray lube in through that hole.

Do NOT put graphite in the door locks. Use a spray lube instead! Also try lubing the door latch area to free up sticking linkage.

Midnight Krawler said:

Do NOT put graphite in the door locks. Use a spray lube instead!

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x2. Silicone spray lube is your friend. We did this on a buddy's '96, and the amount of what we figured likely was graphite that came running out was disturbing. Works great for hood latches, too.

Also try lubing the door latch area to free up sticking linkage.

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Or pull the door panels and soak EVERYTHING. On the same '96, what looked like three dead power lock actuators started working again after being dousing the linkages with an entire can of silicone lube. The linkages were literally so gummed-up from graphite and other crud (we suspect WD-40 was used at some point) that the actuators couldn't overcome the resistance in the linkage.

I worked as a locksmith in a former life, and the number one rule for lubricating locks of any kind is NEVER use any kind of liquid lubricant on a lock. If it is dirty, clean it with an alcohol or other no-residue based cleaner, then lub it with a dry lubricant such as powdered teflon or graphite. Liquid oily lubricants only attract dust and dirt to gum up the lock.

rpyne said:

I worked as a locksmith in a former life, and the number one rule for lubricating locks of any kind is NEVER use any kind of liquid lubricant on a lock. If it is dirty, clean it with an alcohol or other no-residue based cleaner, then lub it with a dry lubricant such as powdered teflon or graphite. Liquid oily lubricants only attract dust and dirt to gum up the lock.

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here's to add to his post.

I use electrical industrial contact cleaner (non lubricating kind) as it is gentle on paint. After you clean the tumbler and mechanism good, lubricate it. I use teflon as it works better in the cold and doesn't get clumpy as fast as graphite tends to. You don't need to drown the locks in lube.

rpyne said:

I worked as a locksmith in a former life, and the number one rule for lubricating locks of any kind is NEVER use any kind of liquid lubricant on a lock. If it is dirty, clean it with an alcohol or other no-residue based cleaner, then lub it with a dry lubricant such as powdered teflon or graphite. Liquid oily lubricants only attract dust and dirt to gum up the lock.

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Thats correct for some locks, but auto locks especially door locks require some type of grease. Adding graphite to a auto door lock with grease in it will cause the tumblers to jamb up. Not to mention the mess that will come out on your key. If you must use graphite try to use the dry spray type lube. The powder graphite just makes a big mess.