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ax-15 master cylinder

jelrod

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Elon NC
Can I change just the MC. I have a 93' with the internal slave. I screwed up and pulled the push rod deal (that attaches to the clutch pedal) out of the MC. I got it back in but if you let go of the pedal to fast the rod just falls out easily.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jason
 
does your master have a sperate hose or is it the sealed unit?
If it's the sealed unit you'll have to do some things.
Get a master from a renix era XJ, and the seperate clutch hose.
You'll have to mate the new hose to the old hose, likely with a compression fitting. The only problem I see is bleeding it, does your slave cylinder have a place to bleed it?
napa was the only place that had the hose for my 87, it was $25 and special order.
 
it was done on the comancheclub board.
used an 87 master and hose, used a compression fitting to mate it to the internal slave.
 
yep, it's a hardware store thing.
You just need to know the size of the metal line, I think it's 1/4. Best to take the hose to the hardware store.
 
Can anyone tell me if this is a disconnect?
P1010044-2.jpg
 
Yes, Push the two lines into each ether and then push the washer looking thing in(that is what releases the lock of the two halves!)

Flash.
 
My question has been answered by mineself. I picked up a new master clylinder from NAPA. As soon as I saw it I knew how it had to be changed. The line that meets the MC has a metal (brass) fitting in it and a roll pin that holds the line in place. Swapping the MC was easy. Then came the clutch pedal pumping. I must have pumped 200 times. Since the bleeder screw onthe slave clyinder is stripped and I still can't get it out this is the only way I had to get the air out of the line. The trans now shifts better than I can ever remember. I hope this helps someone. Thanks for everyones help.

Jason
 
montanaman said:
What symptoms were you getting with the old master cylinder? And did you have trouble separating the fluid line?
Symptoms were like the clutch was not dis-engaging fully. I could be sitting at a light with the pedal to the floor then put in 1st and it would start to creep forward. Also would get some wicked grinding when running trough the gears. No problem separating the fluid line although I could not use the new roll pin (or what ever it's called) because it was to big. The old one was still in good shape so I just reused it.
 
Glad it worked out for you - changing the slave is a little more involved, as I found out last year! The best way to do a clutch bleed I found was to just let it drip through - that gave me back some performance, until the fluid squirted out of the slave again...

FYI, changing the slave involves dropping the tranny (get a new clutch while you're there) - once the tranny's on the bench, swapping the slave takes, oh, about 30 seconds I'd say... If that ends up being your problem, remember not to lose any of the silly little nuts or screws (can't remember what they were) that come in the pack.
 
Well I'm glad you got it fixed. My '91 XJ is showing the same symptoms. It has a new internal slave. When the motor and tranny are still cold, it disengages just fine. When it gets warmed up, it doesn't disengage so well. Was yours like that too?

jelrod said:
Symptoms were like the clutch was not dis-engaging fully. I could be sitting at a light with the pedal to the floor then put in 1st and it would start to creep forward. Also would get some wicked grinding when running trough the gears. No problem separating the fluid line although I could not use the new roll pin (or what ever it's called) because it was to big. The old one was still in good shape so I just reused it.
 
Last edited:
montanaman said:
When the motor and tranny are still cold, it disengages just fine. When it gets warmed up, it doesn't disengage so well. Was yours like that too?
Mine was random, didn't matter if it was cold or hot.
 
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