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electric fans opinion

M

MaineJeepah

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Plantation, FL
So the MJ truck is going together, and I was planning on doing dual electric fans. I have a new 2 core modine, 4.6 stroker, and a renix setup. I have the older style aux fan, and recently purchased a 19115 perma-cool. The perma cool is not going to work, as there is not enough depth, and I don't want to mod the radiator forwards towards the grill. I was thinking of getting 2 slimline 10" 1600 cfm electrics off of ebay to replace BOTH the mech fan, and the aux fan. Has anyone done these? I have read/searched, and I am not going for overkill like the Ford Taurus dual fans...

It would be helpful if anyone knew what the STOCK max cfm ratings for the mech and aux fans are...

Thanks

Brad
 
I have the dual 12" Flex-a-lites,(2500CFM) I had to trim the bottom of the shroud on both sides but it fits in there well. I also put in the adjustable thremistat and wired up for the a/c and a manual switch as well. I am going Renix Stroker this summer, Right now, in Florida in August at 98 in heavy traffic with the a/c on it wont overheat so I am hopeing my stroker doesn't like to get any hotter than a slightly modified stocker. Most people dont like flex a lites but I have them in 3 different vehicles, and the only part theat ever failed is the thermistat, and they sent me two more of them for free, and asked me to call them if one of these fails, they want it sent back..So the customer service has been first rate for me....Good Luck

P.S. Do a search, we have beat this to death....
 
I would go Slo-Sho's route and use two 97+ stock electric fans. I think that looks the best and would function just snazzy. He's happy with it I know, I'm thinking I'll try it once it warms up a bit.
My .02
-Collin
 
Since I always seem to look like a jerk anyway...

I am thinking of doing 3 10" slimline fans... I want to use the 97 switch/sensor that reduces current/resistance at different temperatures. I want to wire that signal into 3 different relays that each open at different resistances, so that as the truck slowly heats, the fans turn on in succession. This will keep things nice and cool, and reduce cycling and abrupt temp changes. At 1000+ cfm each, I think that the 10" will work well enough that the third fan may never have occasion on trun on. Also, since they are 10" they should, reducing the issues needing a shroud for the lower portion of the fan. I wasn't sure if 3000 cfm would be enough, and I couldn't find anything when I searched... cfm ratings never came up... until the above post showed up... :)
 
I didn't read your whole thread... But.


I used dual taurus AUX fans. They're about 12" dia. And not too deep. I still had to move the radiator foreward about 2"~. Which took about 10 minutes once I figured out what to do.


P1010498.jpg



P1010500.jpg



It's overkill. Small children and animals have been known to get sucked into my grille with both on high. However, at $12 a fan I'm happy.
 
Have you got a year for those fans? I have seen that twice now, and I'd like to chas that down... would need the year, though.

Thanks

Brad
 
Maybe 94-02? That era. Taurus looks like a spaceship - all rounded.


But it'll have too fans in the engine bay. A bigger (14") one and the smaller AUX fan.
 
DirtyMJ said:
I didn't read your whole thread... But.


I used dual taurus AUX fans. They're about 12" dia. And not too deep. I still had to move the radiator foreward about 2"~. Which took about 10 minutes once I figured out what to do.


P1010498.jpg



P1010500.jpg



It's overkill. Small children and animals have been known to get sucked into my grille with both on high. However, at $12 a fan I'm happy.
Click to expand...

I'm very curious what you did to move the radiator forward. A few pics would be great too!
 
SCW said:
I'm very curious what you did to move the radiator forward. A few pics would be great too!
Click to expand...
I'm thinking he just notched some metal out where the snubber/isolator (whatever) studs poke up through the support.
 
SCW said:
I'm very curious what you did to move the radiator forward. A few pics would be great too!
Click to expand...



There's nothing to see. Well, there is, but I'd have to rip the header panel off again. Anyways, RenixPower was almost right.


I actually just drilled new holes farther foreward. Not to get too technical here, but I used a milwaukee double-fluted step bit in a 14.4V makita cordless drill. Yes, it took a good $450 worth of tools to drill 4 holes in sheetmetal.


You could probably move the radiator foreward 5". But I doubt the hoses will stretch that far.
 
If anyone has access to a 'U pull it' type of salvage yard then I would certainly be on the look out for the 97+ 10 S blade fan. I'm running twin OEM 10 blade fans with the Modine copper/brass radiator and so far I've found this setup to be exemplary as far as cost, install, and most importantly...functionality.


DSC00531-1.jpg
DSC00529.jpg


On a side note, the throttle response post clutch fan removal is simply astounding. Good luck with whichever route you go.
 
DirtyMJ said:
There's nothing to see. Well, there is, but I'd have to rip the header panel off again. Anyways, RenixPower was almost right.


I actually just drilled new holes farther foreward. Not to get too technical here, but I used a milwaukee double-fluted step bit in a 14.4V makita cordless drill. Yes, it took a good $450 worth of tools to drill 4 holes in sheetmetal.


You could probably move the radiator foreward 5". But I doubt the hoses will stretch that far.
Click to expand...

you must not have a/c? what does one do with ac condenser in the way? I'd like to remove my condenser because the air doesnt work anyway, not to hijack but can this be done or what is involved? I'm looking at doing this mod myself. Did you remove the stock mech fan? Also, what is the belt situation, new belt, rerouted what?
 
I'm not sure about the A/C - but I think there'd still be space enough to move the whole mess forward about 2" - which is all you need.


I just removed the clutch fan and bolted the pulley on without it. The belt routing is otherwise stock - but on my XJ I used the routing from Dr Dyno (or whatever his name is...) which eliminates the idler pulley and uses a 2.5L belt. Either works just as well. Other than the modified routing had clearance issues with my renix for some reason - angle grinder delt with that.
 
MaineJeepah said:
Since I always seem to look like a jerk anyway...

I am thinking of doing 3 10" slimline fans... I want to use the 97 switch/sensor that reduces current/resistance at different temperatures. I want to wire that signal into 3 different relays that each open at different resistances, so that as the truck slowly heats, the fans turn on in succession. This will keep things nice and cool, and reduce cycling and abrupt temp changes. At 1000+ cfm each, I think that the 10" will work well enough that the third fan may never have occasion on trun on. Also, since they are 10" they should, reducing the issues needing a shroud for the lower portion of the fan. I wasn't sure if 3000 cfm would be enough, and I couldn't find anything when I searched... cfm ratings never came up... until the above post showed up... :)
Click to expand...
The 97+ does not have a variable speed fan. It's either on, or off. They do however have two coolant temp sensors. One for the gauge, and one for the ECM which then controls the fan relay. Still a cool idea if you can come up with a controller.
 
Yeah, I have been testing the 97 sensor at different temps. I am a novice, so I pretty much don't know what I am doing yet, but that's how I got started with Jeeps at first, too. I think there is a nissan sensor that may have what I am looking for, but I still have yet to confirm.
 
Just so you know the sensor will very its resistance in accordance to the temp. What you need to come up with is a controller that can interpret that signal then activate the correct relay accordingly.
 
just so YOU know... I haven't the skill to do that... :) YET....
 
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