What am i missing to get my 35's

Ok dont hammer me but am i dreaming? I got a 96 2dr 5 spd with a 2" and 31's i just snapped 2 leafs on my right so my RR saggs so bad i cant drive. now im going bigger. This is what i was thinkin........ 6.5" rustys, SYE, 35x13.5 on 15x8's (can i use stock rims 4 now) i wanna do the gears later(is first gear gonna be to hard to start?) will these tires fit with a 6.5 or do i need to cut should i settle with smaller i think i got the B4 buying jitters

tires will fit with some trimming....


gears well you could drive it but you cant wheel it...

you could use stock rims but i think its going to be a pain in the butt to get them in....15x13.50:flame:


but what exactly do you want to use your cherokee for??


because you also need to improve steering,brake lines and some other stuff that i cant remember now

oh ya should i do an sye myself iv never started sumthin i cant finish but dont know $#!T about transfer cases

the biggest thing you're missing is axles that can handle 35's.
No, you won't be able to fit 35's on stock rims, the tires would get into the suspension components.
Don't do 35's with the stock gears, you'll make the clutch toasty.

87manche said:

the biggest thing you're missing is axles that can handle 35's.
No, you won't be able to fit 35's on stock rims, the tires would get into the suspension components.
Don't do 35's with the stock gears, you'll make the clutch toasty.

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yeah he is right....
i didnt think about the clutch and yeah it will toast ....

mmm....

just get a 4.5 lift kit and trim the hell out of it and put 35s...gears...

or get 6 inch lift kit and 33s

why 35's?

You CAn wheel 33's n stock gearing, just wont be so responsive.

Whats wrong with 6" kit and 33's? then later axles/gears/lockers, THEN bigger tire?!

You'll have to cut for 35's. with only 6 unless you don't leave the road.

Sounds like you are on a budget buy not wanting to buy rims. You will be in a financial bind if you by tires and lift then you find out you will need to address drive shaft and whatever else. Get you lift fiqured out and tested befor you buy tires. Then do gears and lockers because you will hate 35's and stock gears. I got money and I am using bastard pac leave's, coil spacers on 3" springs I just built a rear end ,bumpers and skid plates. I still need to build a front end and finish cutting my fenders then I will decide on tires. I keep hoping that by the time I'm ready I can find some 35X10.5 radials that arn't SS SSR. Remember "Any red neck can jack one up and put big tires on it but it's the stuff you can't see that makes them go."

31*10.50*15's rub on turns- almost full lock only- with stock rims- I don't know that 35*13.5 would even fit. Aside from that, I believe stock rims are too narrow to hold a tire that wide, but I would go wider and adjust the backspacing. I also would gear for the 35's if that's what you truly want. Why buy 33's only to have dropped all that cash into tires that you think are too small- do everything at once and get it over with- pay only once

I have 34 x 10.5's on stock zj rims on my xj with 4.5-5" of lift and had to trim the hell out of it, just to give you a reference. I think your dreaming a little, unless you want a huge project. If you stay in the 4" lift range and stick with 32's to maybe 33's, you will run into a LOT less issues. If you want to stick with the stock rims, you will need to keep the width of the tires down as well. I think the magic number for max width is 2" wider than the rim width. BUT, that number can be broken. I'm running the 34x10.5's on 7" wide rims.

13.5 inch wide tires on stock wheels will hit the leaf springs, no go.

If you want to go to 6.5" and 35's, you need to be prepared to drop 5k up front.. lift, axles, gears, tires, wheels. If you aren't ready to do that, you aren't ready to go big.

Don't get a rusty's lift, buy quality or buy smaller. RE, TNT, etc. There is a reason so many people here talk trash on Rusty's components - granted, a lot of people say good things, when 50% of what you hear is negative .. where there is smoke there is fire.

35's on 3.07's will kill your clutch and be really hard on your engine, not to mention it will be unwheelable. You will need at *least* 4.56 gears.

What rear end do you have? A dana 35 won't hold up to 35's, no matter what jo bob's cousings uncle ran without breaking. It just wont. 29 spline 8.25, ford 8.8, dana 44, ford 9", 4.56 or 4.88 gears, or don't bother.

You will want wheels with 4.5" or less backspacing to fit 35's. If you want to run stock wheels, you are going to need to get wheel spacers .. which cost more than wheels. The only reason to do it is if there is a stock wheel you think is sexy.

At 6.5", stock steering isn't going to hold up. Be prepared to go WJ, Tera,U-Turn or 1 ton steering at the same time.

-Cal

kind of a hi-jack, sorry. would an MJ with 5.5inches and 35's and an auto(w/ tranny cooler)/4.0 be bad news with 3.55s (d44 out back with upgraded front joints) even if its a trail rig only? or should i stay in the 33 range?

35's and stock gears is a bad idea, period. On the trail you will not have the finesse that you need - even in low range. Your going to be giving it *way* too much gas to get up the smallest obsticle, and when the tires do break loose, your gonna have a metric fuckton of wheelspin going on real fast like.. leading to broken parts.. That's not taking into consideration heavy strain on the transmission, transfer case, driveshafts and u-joints, etc.

Regearing is part of going big, not an improvement to going big.

ok, thanks. i wont have the money to re-gear for a year or so. i'll stay in the 33 range then.

Stick on 33's. Regear the rear 4.88 when you can, and pull the front driveshaft. A month or two later, regear the front 4.88.. then next time you need tires, feel free to go 35's (although, I'd get some superior/alloy usa front shafts first). 4.88 gears with 33's isn't that bad.

I personally think 4.56's with 33's and a stick suck. Not the worst, but not the best either. With 31's, it was great.

Id go for an axle that can support at least 4.88's.

I think you should start with simple things, and work your way up. Upgrade axles, steering, brakes, ect... Then move on to a the lift, along with the tires. Thats the way I started out, without having to dump a bunch of money at once. Im happy so far with the way Ive gone with the rig. But, YMMV.

My .02.

kenny schmitt said:

Ok dont hammer me but am i dreaming? I got a 96 2dr 5 spd with a 2" and 31's i just snapped 2 leafs on my right so my RR saggs so bad i cant drive. now im going bigger. This is what i was thinkin........ 6.5" rustys, SYE, 35x13.5 on 15x8's (can i use stock rims 4 now) i wanna do the gears later(is first gear gonna be to hard to start?) will these tires fit with a 6.5 or do i need to cut should i settle with smaller i think i got the B4 buying jitters

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There is quite a bit to a 6.5" lift that one needs to consider beyond some tall springs, longer shocks, and an SYE. Steering issues, track bar issues, control arm angles, longer bumpstops, motor mount issues, axle strength, gearing, and braking all need to be thought out to do it right.

You will not be able to run 35x13.5's on stock rims. Stock rims are 8" wide. 35x12.5's need at least 8.5" rims according to tire people, let alone the wider 13.5"s. Your backspacing will also be off so far that your tires will rub badly.

You’re in luck with the '96 in that you should already have the dual diaphragm booster on the brakes, but at 35" tires one should consider rear disks to help reduce stopping distance.

You should also have an 8.25 rear end that will put up with 35"s better than a D35, but if you drive hard I would recommend alloy axles. The D30 up front will hold up to good wheeling technique on moderate trails with alloy axles and 760 joints, but if you run heavy on the little pedal I would consider upgrading.

Trackbar and steering is an individual choice, but to see the best on and off road you will want to go to a better set up on the trackbar and draglink/tierod. The stock steering box will be hard pressed to live up to the 35's as well. Brace the box and frame behind the steering box for greater reliability.

If you like a decent ride in addition to the required new control arms, you will want to reduce your control arm angles. One can do this with properly braced drop brackets, a long arm set up, or raising the arms up at the axle end.

I would also recommend the use of stronger than stock motor mounts because of the increased effort the driveline will experience just getting down the road.

As has been mentioned, your clutch will take an early grave with stock gearing on 35's. You should plan on regearing very soon.

Without significant trimming you won't get 13.5" wide 35's to flex very well in the front. I run 35x12.5's on ~7.5" and still had to trim a bunch when I bumped up from the 33's.

Oh, your spare will no longer fit inside, so figure on a new rear bumper and carrier.

My recommendation would be to go 5.5” and 33’s if you want to do a bit at a time. It will still be a very capable trail rig and do well on the road as well.

I actually miss my old OME and 30” tire set up sometimes. It rode better than stock and out did TJ’s running 33” tires. It was a real sleeper.

Bones :skull1:

The way it was: Wheeling with the guys from Tomken circa 1999:


The way it is: same spot circa 2004:

Bones said:

You will not be able to run 35x13.5's on stock rims. Stock rims are 8" wide. 35x12.5's need at least 8.5" rims according to tire people, let alone the wider 13.5"s. Your backspacing will also be off so far that your tires will rub badly.

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Stock wheels are 7" wide on a cherokee, and 35x12.5's should have 8" wide wheels. 13.5's could go to 10" wide wheels, but often get by on 8" without a problem.

cal said:

metric fuckton

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can I get an objective measurement of this in N/m please?

87manche said:

can I get an objective measurement of this in N/m please?

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More properly, "Metric Fucktonne." The Fuckton is the Imperial standard for the measurement of fuckweight, while the Fucktonne, in contrast, constitutes the Metric measure of fuckmass.

Generally used to imply superlative quantity with the Metric standard included to emphasise this point. The inclusion of the term is, however, fundamentally a misuse of that standard, as the Imperial Fuckton (2000 Imperial Fuckpounds) denotes a slightly greater measure of fuckweight within Earth's gravitational pull than does the Metric Fuckton (1000 Metric Fuckilograms).


http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=metric+fuckton