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1/2 doors what to do with power w/l/m wires

Dano

NAXJA Member #1269
Location
St.Louis, MO
ok, I am starting to make some 1/2 doors for my '99 xj and althought i am still welding the doors up i am thinking ahead when i start taking the doors off.

what to use to disconnect the power crap from the full doors and then when they come back on plug them right back in?

I will be running the q-form pods so the speakers will stay in the body.
I thought about using a stereo harnes, but most only have 7 or 8 wired in them.

I am only doing front half doors, so to put the rear windows down and up am i going to need the pannels and wires in the half doors for that?

thanks
Dan Rabbitt
 
I'm working on doing that right now actually...don't have any pictures yet though, nothing is installed....

I used radio connectors. Just use like 4 of them and you'll have more than enough pins to make the connects, you'll just have to remember to put the wire's in the right pin slots. I'm trying to make it a flush mount style so that I don't have wires hanging out of the jeep when the doors are off, but I might just put the connects in the body instead. who knows....i'll figure it out later.
 
the only bad thing is i think that you have to have all the window switches connected to make the rear windows go up and down.
the locks were like that.
 
well, you're very correct, but wire's are wires and no matter how the electricty goes through them, the motors will work (Jumpers work awesome with XJ's gay electrical system). The idea is not to remove wires, but to just make them easier to take appart, so make them all quick connects with stero connections. Pay attention to this one.....when you make the quick connects, jumper the power supply from the driver side door to the others and it will work like a charm both connected and disconnected. I used this method to jumper out my window lock switch because the switch is sealed in the switch module and can't be repaired (a $150 dollar switch). Hope this helps. I'll go look and see what wires need to be jumped....it'll be a few min.
 
yep if the front switch is out the rear windows will not work .you can either put them down and leave them down when you go to remove the front doors or move the switches themselves inside to the center console.

as for the connections when removing and installing. there are already connectors under the kick panels on both sides.if thats to hard for you run down to radio shack and pick up some interlocking connectors

pRS1C-2265807w345.jpg
 
Wil Badger said:
yep if the front switch is out the rear windows will not work .you can either put them down and leave them down when you go to remove the front doors or move the switches themselves inside to the center console.



Wil's statement is both correct and incorrect. The rear windows will not work when the driver door (Left for LHD and Right for RHD) because of the window lockout switch on the later model Jeeps. I'm not positive about the earlier model XJ's, but I'm assuming that they have the same switch and I cannot be sure that the pins I'm about to mention are the correct ones. You don't have to move the switches if you want the rears to work without the front doors on. What you DO have to do is to look at both connectors and jumper out the window lock switch. At this point, your window lock switch will be inoperative, so if you're weird like that and want one, then this mod is not for you. Anyhow....


You'll want to follow the wires down to where you are going to make your connections and jumper out these two wires.....Pin 8 in connector 1 and Pin 9 in connector 2

standard



You'll notice that the connectors look like the ones that plug into the back of the Door Module. well, that's because they are....this is the easiest mod in the world. Just follow the wires down and jumper them out. I say jumper them out so that in the event that you sell your jeep or get tired of taking off your doors and want your lockout switch back, you can just pull the jumper out and it'll work just like before. I hope this works for you as it is a fail proof method of fixing your rear window problem. However, you will have to reach back and roll them down unless you place another switch somewhere that rolls them both down at the same time.......... :gag: I don't want to open that can of worms quite yet!



Now your windows will go up and down with the front doors removed. Any other questions?
 
awesome. thanks for the help. I may just se if I can make it even easier and find an extra door panel amd put a whole switch panel in the half door.

easier or harder I am not there yet, but will keep it updated.

also I tried to search for this info and nothing came up. so it'll now be here for later.
 
Ok, nevermind, while I'm at it, if you wanted to add another switch that allowed both rear windows to go down at the same time, add a switch that spliced into these four pins (C1 Pin 4 (Dark Blue with a white tracer), Pin 10 (Red with a white tracer), Pin 1 (Dark green with a white tracer), and Pin 2 (gray with a black tracer))

You'll have to mess around with the wires first to make sure they work. I've found a misprint in the schematics saying one connector is the other, so make sure you test the wires and verify that they will do what you want them to when put into a switch. Pins 4 and 2 are the Up pins and pins 10 and 1 are the down pins.


You can also make two switches so that they can be moved up individually of each other by adding another switch and deviding the pins. Pins 4 and 10 are for the Left rear and pins 1 and 2 are for the right rear. All you'd have to do is to splice the wires at the kick plate (on the inside of the jeep) and run the wires to where you want to place the switches. I'd rather just lean back and roll the windows down, but hey, if adding a few wires and a few switches floats your boat, well then here is the info that you need. Hope you enjoy and hope it works for you.
 
once I get the doors finished and get to the wiring I will be looking this up. but I am not that far and will have to get some more gas this week for the welder. so the wiring is not on the plate right now.

But thanks again for the help. It is appreciated!:bunny:
 
Wil Badger said:
as for the connections when removing and installing. there are already connectors under the kick panels on both sides.if thats to hard for you run down to radio shack and pick up some interlocking connectors
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265807w345.jpg

well as I did state that I will have some q-forms that will replace the kick panels and don't want to have to take them off all the time to unhook the windows.
e9_1.JPG


I will have to go to radio shack and get some of the connectors you mentioned. male and female ends.
 
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