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I am looking for an xj. What do I want?

slcpunk74

NAXJA Forum User
Location
UTAH
I am looking at buying an xj. I am on a budget but I am prolly going to spend around 2k. I just have never owned a jeep so I want to know what to look for. I know I want the 4.0 and prolly an auto.
I also want to know if any years are really better then others

I am most likely going to do some light to moderate wheeling with 4"-6" of lift and 32s or 33s.
I am also going to use it as my daily driver until my early bronco is finished and then as a weekend/winter vehicle after my bronco is done

Thanks in advance
Chad
 
Here's a good website to look at when wondering what happened to the XJ's over the years. http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=46011

I like the older H.O. models, from 1991-1994, because they're still simple to work on, have a little more oomph, and there's a LOT more out there when it comes to go-faster parts. Suspension didn't change much at all throughout the years; so a lift kit for a 1984 will still fit on a 2001 XJ.

The older models, (1987-1990) have the Renault/Bendix (Renix) engine management system; a little more complicated, but you can diagnose pretty much any sensor with a Multi-meter and a manual. The engine blocks are made of sterner stuff too.

The common consensus about best motor/tranny to get it a 4.0 litre and an automatic transmission. Avoid 1984-1986 models because Jeep was still working out the bugs with the 4-banger, and the 2.8 V6 isn't a very good motor. (It can be swapped to a 3.4 for more power, but is still limited when it comes to upgrades.)

Look for rust issues, especially if you live anywhere that they use salt. Look at the rocker panels, rear quarter panels, the driver's footwell, behind the rear wheelwells, and the bottoms of the doors.

Blow-by is an issue, but not a big one. If you find oil in the air-filter and the engine has great oil pressure; it's probably just a clogged CCV system. Easily fixed!

All 4.0's have a bit of piston slap, don't let it bother you.

The early models (1984-1986) have good transfer cases, but are limited in aftermarket support for them. The later years, (1987 and up) have either the 'Command-Trac' NP 231 (transfer case bezel says 2-hi, 4-hi, N, 4-lo) or the 'Selec-Trac' (transfer case bezel says 2-hi, 4-part time, 4-full time, N, 4-lo). The 231 is easier to work on, slightly cheaper to replace, and has loads of aftermarket goodies (especially Slip-Yoke-Eliminator kits.) The Selec-Trac is an awesome case, but just doesn't have much market for add-ons. (The full-time option is sweet if you live in an area with a lot of snow.)

Going 4-6" will probably give you vibrations from your driveline angles. This can be fixed by lowering your t-case, or adding a SYE. (The SYE is around $200 and up BTW.) If I were you, I'd only lift it 2" or so, and then trim the fenders for extra clearance.

Hmmm... That's all I can think of for now. Anyone else?

:)
 
hay thanks keep um comin guys
 
find one with out abs, and it should have an 8.25 instead of the dana35. This should postpone an axle upgrade for a while. If can get real lucky find one with a d44. But the years of XJ that you want will not have it factory. If I could do it again, I would not get electic windows or factory carpet.
 
Oh yeah!

The front axle is a Dana 30 throughout all the years, but it underwent three changes in it's lifetime.

1984-1991 had either the D30 with vacuum disconnect (for the Command-Trac) or the d30 non-disconnect. The non-disconnect axle is generally viewed as being the better axle, simply because there's a lot less to go wrong with it. Vacuum-disconnect actuators are sometimes finicky, and if they go south you can replace it with another one, install a 'posi-lock' kit, or just jam the shift fork into '4wd' mode and leave it there.

1984-1994 D30's had the smaller, slightly weaker 260 u-joints in the axleshafts. In 1995 they went to a larger, stronger 297 u-joint (same size as the 760, which is supposed to be even stronger!). Axleshafts are interchangable, meaning you can upgrade an older axle with newer shafts. Another note: ABS-equipped XJ's had 297 u-joints.

The third change was in the last year of the XJ; they went to the same front axle as the TJ which is the D30 low-pinion standard rotation. It's not quite as desirable since the pinion is a little more vulnerable to damage, and possibly would take less of a lift to create vibes. (To folks in the know: Was this 2001 only? Or 2000-2001?)

Rear axles: The Dana high-pinion is the standard rear axle for most XJ's. Optional axles were the rare Dana 44 (1987-1989) and the Chrysler 8.25 (1992 and up.) The Dana 35 isn't too bad, but if you go much more than 31's you can run into problems (if you've got a heavy foot.) The 8.25 has stronger axletubes, and a stronger ring & pinion; but the early years (1992-1996) had small axleshafts than the D35! After 1997, the 8.25 axleshafts were beefed up a little, so that the whole unit is stronger than the D35. (Shafts went from 1.17" to 1.21" diameter and from 27-spline to 29-spline. The D35 has 1.18" shafts and 27-splines.)

:)
 
Last edited:
KSXJ said:
find one with out abs, and it should have an 8.25 instead of the dana35. This should postpone an axle upgrade for a while. If can get real lucky find one with a d44. But the years of XJ that you want will not have it factory. If I could do it again, I would not get electic windows or factory carpet.

This is not necessarily true... I have ABS and have the 8.25 rearend.
 
2001XJ said:
This is not necessarily true... I have ABS and have the 8.25 rearend.
only if you've done some custom work.
the 8.25 never came with ABS XJ's from the factory.
 
Huh, I have a 2001 and it has the ABS light indicator that has actually come on in my guage cluster and I have the 8.25 rear. I was told that when Chrysler were short on supply of the Dana 35's they used 8.25 that were lying around. I also have the breaking system that was on the state trooper police jeeps for some reason.....different rotors
 
no I haven't, what are the characteristics of them?
 
97-98 were my pick but you said 2000 doller range. Cherrokees are getting to old to bank finance and the new car lots wholsale them off. Go to your large dealers and see what they have parked out back waiting for wholsale. Tell them you are a wholsale buyer and offer 2000 bucks for a nice one. My bud just found a super clean 93 for 2600 I bought a clean 98 a year ago for 2800. Look for factory skidplates,Up-country and tow packages if you find you have many choices. The high pinion 30 up front is nice. And the newer ones have airbags. Wholesale on the dealer back lots is the way to buy. They don't bother cleaning them up so you can really tell how it was taken care of. Mine is automatic transmission and I wish I went with a 5 speed for off road.
 
2001XJ said:
Huh, I have a 2001 and it has the ABS light indicator that has actually come on in my guage cluster and I have the 8.25 rear. I was told that when Chrysler were short on supply of the Dana 35's they used 8.25 that were lying around. I also have the breaking system that was on the state trooper police jeeps for some reason.....different rotors
the 8.25 didn't have the needed room for the tone rings. There's a very good thread about putting ABS on an 8.25 axle in mod tech somewhere.
See if you can't find the ABS pump, it will be attached to the lines coming out of the brake master cylinder/ proportioning valve.
 
I talked to my buddy and he said something about some older years having bad parts compatability(spelling) and strange efi stuff. is this true? please help explain to this newbie
 
if its just for offroad buy the cheepest one you can that has a 4.0 and spend the money on lift and a ford 8.8 rear end from an explorer.and when it dies just get another one and swap the parts ;)
 
I am going to use it as my daily driver for now until I get my 74 bronco done and then after that it will be my wheeler/winter/ daily driver
 
For a DD I'm planning to get my wife a 97-99 XJ. Those are the nicest years in my opinion.

For a wheeler that you figure is going to take a beating I like the 92-96 years since they have the non-disconnect D30 and the H.O. 4.0L. Mine is a 96 SE that used to belong to the local Government so came with out power windows and the like. Consequently it came with all the goodies like 4.0L engine and tow hooks, but none of the "luxury" items so it was cheap. To me that’s the perfect situation since I beat the crap out of my rig.
 
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