No oil air intakes

Ok, let me preface this by saying this;I'm not a mechanic, I'm a carpenter. I'm not a computer guru either(my searches didn't help much, i would end up with 500 threads to sift through. Idon't think I was doing it correctly even though I read the "how to search"thread.)

I want to replace the stock air box in my 98 to a less restrictive "open" style. i'm planning on doing the exhaust upgrade(headers, maybe, new cat and muffler) so what i'm looking for is efficient air and exhaust flow.

from what i've read, the only oil less package i can find is the AEM model but they don't make it for a 98 cherokee, only the 07 wrangler. Do you guys know of something that i haven't found that would fill the bill, or a homebrew that might work? i did read Dr.Dyno's write up about his and don't know if i should tackle that or not.

thanks for the help and take it easy on me please.
Hoss

They make them for all sorts of jeeps but I couldn't find one for a 98 XJ, just 98 ZJs and TJs. Call AEM directly and see if they have something thats not listed. Maybe you could modify one from a TJ. There may be a problem with hood clearance where the air tube crosses over the valve cover on XJ's. Just guessing though.

thanks
Hoss

Use a Donaldson filter/airbox. They work great, paper element, more surface area than a K&N, can be easily adapted for snorkles, and can be had for about $70 on ebay. Check out Go-Jeep's site, he's got a few pictures on there.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAirFilter.htm

Couldn't you just buy Rusty's Airtube and instead of using the K&N, use a similar sized AEM dry filter?

53 AND 98, thanks for the tips, i'll check out both options
Hoss

If you simply MUST fool with the air filtration system....do what GoJeep did. Or leave it stock. tubes and cones will kill your motor in the long run and are especially suceptable to water and mud....

53guy said:

Use a Donaldson filter/airbox. They work great, paper element, more surface area than a K&N, can be easily adapted for snorkles, and can be had for about $70 on ebay. Check out Go-Jeep's site, he's got a few pictures on there.
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAirFilter.htm

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I don't think this setup would work in Jeeps with ABS because I know I have a bunch of ABS stuff twords the firewall right where the filter canister is mounted. I just thought I would pass this along.

I built my own similar to Rusty's and used a APC cone filter from Pepboys.

If you're going to mess with it go whole hog, just sticking a K&N on the end of the flex tube is only half a Mod IMHO.

After the air silencer venturi bottleneck at the box opening the next big restricter and flow impeder is that flexible 120 degree bend, with the air turbulence creating ribs. Need to eliminate that sucker.

Find a Dryflow AEM in the 2.5 3 or 3.5" range and then buy one 180 degree Mandrel bend exhust tube in the same size and carefully cut them at the right spot and weld them back together to create a very smooth and much less sharp air path.


This has an bend that is not strictly speaking needed except that I want the filter near the cowl. Bends aren't a big deal if they bend SMOOTHLY. Look at the K&K FIPK it's long and it loops up into the air and then back down to the TB so it can mate to the throttle body with as straight a path as possible to allow air to increase in velocity.


This is the same principle that makes TB spacers and long runner intakes (non Jeep stuff) work. Don't believe it? Try an experiment, go turn your bathroom faucet on and stick you tooth brush right under the opening in the water... then hold it all the way down near the drain ... a lot more force on the brush, that extra pressure is what I'm talking about. At the faucet the water is turbulent from the screen and the bend, down near the drain it's falling smoothly and faster.

Here it is powdercoated:

a 4x9 AEM dryflow with 3.5" opening using a silicone 2.5" to 3.5" adaptor and a small intermediate length of 3.5" tube.
12.99 for the 180 (Ebay mandrel bender in MD has best prices), 9.99 for the Dryflow (Ebay poorly listed by seller only bid was mine) and 14.99 for the damn silicone adapter (also Ebay silicone is expensive)

nice work on the intake tube, 1bolt

thank you, it wasn't hard to do, my next one will be a 3.5 inch Stainless version which will happen soon because my TIG welding is finally getting decent looking. Just need to make a mini manifold coming off my argon flow meter so I can flood the inside of the tube and feed the TIG at the same time. and also buy the U-bend

Note: K&K FIPK obviously should be K&N FIPK which stands for Fuel Injection Performance Kit and I know most of you know that but for the benefit of those who are looking for cold air intake upgrades the FIPK is probably the best Kit as far as guaranteed Dyno proven HP gains. I think my home brew version might out flow it due to being shorter. I know my 3.5 version will

Don't believe the BS going around about K&N not filtering well. If you just read the simple instructions it says to put on more oil if you want it to filter the air better. Less oil more air and dirt, more oil less air and less dirt. Simple as that. Nappa sells exhust pipe by the foot. Get the size that fits into your rubber intake hose then get a universal clamp on filter the same size as you pipe. Speed shops for hotrods stock different sizes if you don't want to wait for mail order. Im sure the newer filters are as good or maybe better than K&N but they are the bench mark and have worked great for years.

I just reread you post and you may not know that the breather hose going to the valve cover can be replaced by a cheap univesal or cheaper old chevy style push on breather. I got a cool anodized one for like 3 or 4 dollers at advanced auto parts it looks like a small trick air filter. it will pass in states that don't pop your hood during emissions testing.

Yup, nice looking fab work there 1Bolt.. and it should work nicely for the street...My Heep would end up hydrolocked with a filter rig like that...but it's still a mile better than a cone hanging down low where the stock filter box was.

MudDawg said:

Yup, nice looking fab work there 1Bolt.. and it should work nicely for the street...My Heep would end up hydrolocked with a filter rig like that...but it's still a mile better than a cone hanging down low where the stock filter box was.

Click to expand...

Muddawg check the second photo. That black PVC cap is on a 3.5" tube bet you can guess where it goes. Through the firewall into what used to be the glove box, can't claim credit for this mod, it was the previous owners idea. One J shaped tube and an air filter on the end inside the glove box and it's hydrolock proof. The intake noise makes me grin :confused1

That gets the MudDawg seal of approval!!!!!

1bolt said:

One J shaped tube and an air filter on the end inside the glove box and it's hydrolock proof.

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Ive never seen a way to make a jeep hydrolock proof. That comes close, but the more creative of us have our ways...

LOL....I know where there is an ordinary looking mud hole that will swallow an XJ....mine included...

98XJSport said:

Ive never seen a way to make a jeep hydrolock proof. That comes close, but the more creative of us have our ways...

Click to expand...

Okay maybe not PROOF but at least very ressistant!

Theoretically this setup would hydrolock just before the driver and passengers hydrolock. :wierd: