View Full Version : 8.25 and ARC welding
Ricky5
January 29th, 2007, 19:11
I'm new to welding but have been practicing quite a bit. I felt comfortable starting a small project, so I bought some shock mounts from JKS and am attempting to weld them onto the 8.25. What I need to know is what the axle tube is made of? Im using an 1/8" E6013 general purpose electrode and it's not doing the job as well as it does with other type of metal i've been practicing with. It penetrates the mount itself, but doesn't penetrate the axle tube too well. It's not making an acceptable weld at all. I've got the welder cranked to 120 amps and get the same result either way.
Any help would be appreciated. I'm thinking I need to get an electrode specifically for the metal the axle tube is constructed of? Am I wrong?
DirtyMJ
January 29th, 2007, 21:51
It's just mild steel, AFIK. That rod will 'work' given the limitations of it.
You've just not got the technique I'd say.
Frank Z
January 30th, 2007, 05:38
The tubes are 1/4" thick. Have you tried pre-heating the tubes?
Here's a link for ya, lots of good info.
http://www.waybuilder.net/free-ed/BldgConst/Welding01/welding01_v2.asp
Ricky5
January 30th, 2007, 06:27
You've just not got the technique I'd say.
I would agree! lmao
Ricky5
January 30th, 2007, 06:27
The tubes are 1/4" thick. Have you tried pre-heating the tubes?
Here's a link for ya, lots of good info.
http://www.waybuilder.net/free-ed/BldgConst/Welding01/welding01_v2.asp
I'll check it out. Thanks! :)
BIGMO32
January 30th, 2007, 22:46
i know it might sound obvious but did you make sure to totally clean any rust and paint of the part of the axle tube your welding to? keep practicing on scrap until you get the technique down
Ricky5
January 31st, 2007, 13:24
i know it might sound obvious but did you make sure to totally clean any rust and paint of the part of the axle tube your welding to? keep practicing on scrap until you get the technique down
Yeah It's bare metal in the spot that I was welding. I definitely need some practice.
PeteCO
February 1st, 2007, 08:32
6013 is a filler rod. You might try a 7018 or a 6011 if you are not getting the penetration you want
ricot83
February 1st, 2007, 09:11
i think 7018 might do the job better and easier.
Ricky5
February 1st, 2007, 12:22
Great suggestion. Thanks! I'll try that tonight! :)
AlxJ64
February 7th, 2007, 18:35
Are you welding overhead? The 6013 is not really an overhead Rod as per industry Standards
haneyXJ
February 8th, 2007, 20:03
If you only have a little AC buzzbox, i wouldn't recommend E7018. That's a DC electrode. You can buy an AC version of it but it runs like crap. I'd go with an E6010 or E6011, those are going to be your best bet for deep penetration, which seems to be your problem. Get the E6011 if you plan on using AC because the E6010 is a DC+ only elecrode. However, you can use E6011 with any polarity you like!
Ricky5
February 12th, 2007, 09:46
Yeah the 6011 works really well. A lot better than the 6013.
Southern Crawlin
February 22nd, 2007, 19:21
use a 3/32 rod not a 1/8 rod. its easier to weld with b/c you need less heat and if the metal is preped correctly and a root pass is run then penetration wont be an issue. id also reccomend a 6011 for root and 7018 for cap assuming your machine is DC. if its AC id use a 6010 for cap.
you dont need to pre heat. if you run a root pass then the metal will be heated from this and the cap will run just fine as long as you set the heat right, have the rod the correct distance from the weld metal puddle, have correct rod angle, and hold on the sides of the weave long enough to fill in the sides and prevent undercut.
the axle tube may be 1/4" thick but i doubt the shock mount is. you need to choose the right stuff for the thinner of the metal work peices. a 1/8 rod on 1/8th thick metal doesnt work.
Stumpalump
February 22nd, 2007, 20:11
Don't feel bad thats a tuff weld if your laying on the ground and thick to thin.
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