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Additional/Extra crossmembers

T

Timber

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Slohio
I've been searching occasionally for a couple of weeks about extra crossmembers for adding rigidity to the unibody structure. I don't do any "extreme" wheeling, certainly nothing in rocks (there aren't really any here), but I do have to cross downed logs and trees sometimes. When I do, I get quite a bit of creaking. I don't have aftermarket bumpers to help, and I've removed the front skid because it became too cumbersome when trying to check the steering linkage every oil change. Have any of you done anything other than a DPG-type t-case skid to add lateral stiffness? I realize that's not the skid's function, but it does help that way. I was thinking of even simply bolting some 1.5" square tube with welded angle at the ends across at a couple of points of the unibody to help stiffen things up. Stupid idea?
Edit: Mine is a '99, in case it matters.
 
Try searching for "Chassis Stiffeners". I've got the Currie Chassis stiffeners and like them...but getting some sliders that will work with them is a problem. I'm going to fab my own.

There are some other frame rail protectors that work good also that will work with sliders as well. Maybe someone else will help out with some manufacturer names.
 
xjtrailrider said:
Try searching for "Chassis Stiffeners". I've got the Currie Chassis stiffeners and like them...but getting some sliders that will work with them is a problem. I'm going to fab my own.

There are some other frame rail protectors that work good also that will work with sliders as well. Maybe someone else will help out with some manufacturer names.
Click to expand...
I know all about those. I think maybe you misunderstood my post. Adding material from one framerail to another will stiffen the unibody torsionally much more than adding material along each rail. I'm looking for info. regarding stiffeners or additional crossmembers added laterally.
As an aside, putting sliders on with framerail stiffeners shouldn't be any problem at all. You still simply measure to the outside edge of the framerail, whether there are stiffeners there or not.
 
Blaine B. said:
Creaking, hell, I creak on the curb.....nothing ever fubared from that :patriot:
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know. I just want to take some preventive measures while I have the time (with a three-year-old and one-year-old, yeah, right!) and a little bit of extra money.
 
Well, even though I don't need, or even want, to change the upper rear shock mounts, I've been thinking of doing something like the Cross rear shock hoop. It ties into a few different bolts in the rear and may help stiffen things up in the rear. I would add it while leaving my upper shock mounts alone. The only bad thing about that particular setup is having to slightly reroute the exhaust, which I'd prefer not to do yet.
 
I've read your post 3 times now and I wouldn't do anything. I had a DPG style skid and it really didn't help noticeably in stiffness. It did help a lot in not smashing the crap out of my t-case.

I would make sure the rig has all the protection you need for the wheeling you do and not worry about it.
 
Steering box braces combined with framerail plates are a good combination. Some manufacturers have tracbar braces that go from passenger side framerail to tracbar mount on driver's side framerail. Would like to see some home-brew solutions for "additional" crossmembers. Pics, anyone?
 
get or build some rock sliders that mount to the frame in three spots and also bolt to the pinch seam and that will help to stiffin up the frame. i built my sliders for less than a $100.
 
I have some homemade 2x2x11 ga. sliders with three 1.5" legs and full pinch-seam support. I even added some 1/8" angle from the pinch-seam support to the rails on each side for extra (possibly pointless) support. Maybe I'll just tie the front and rear legs of the sliders into the LCA mounts and forward spring mounts with some more square tube and plates. That only helps with stiffening each individual rail, though, which I'm not as concerned with. I still want to find a way to tie the framerails together in a couple (few) more places.
 
Timber said:
I've been searching occasionally for a couple of weeks about extra crossmembers for adding rigidity to the unibody structure.
Click to expand...

Unless you are having problems with doors or the hatch not shutting or staying shut why bother?


A rear class III hitch ties together the ends of the frame rails. On the front you can tie together the ends of the frame rails by using part of the factory tow hook bracket system (pic) and welding some square tube between the two.

Look at the backbone bracket by Detours.

http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php

standard.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tim_MN said:
Unless you are having problems with doors or the hatch not shutting or staying shut why bother?


]
Click to expand...

perhaps he wants to prevent that.

I wish i did some unibody stiffening earlier in my jeeps life.

Now I have only one door which contacts the door seals all the way around.

And only 2 of them shut the way they should.
 
I added a cross member when I put in my Atlas. Needed a bigger skid plate to cover the thing and wanted a mounting point for the traction bar. It doesn't really add anything for frame twisting IMO. The cage already took care of that issue.
I had already plated the frame rails for the cage tie in points, and would recommend adding some stiffness as well as a weld point for a cross member if you add one. the frame tie in's are 1/4 plate I plasma'd up and boxed as well as gusseted to the frame plating, tied in some 1.5 in tube pieces so I could angle the 2x2 box down and then up again to the frame mounts. Added some poly bushings, but on after thought could have left those out, but it was already fab'd up. Here's some pics, all less than 50k.

D

cross01.jpg

cross02.jpg

cross03.jpg

cross04.jpg
 
yeah, neglected to paint after fabb'in it up. In the middle of changing the trans mount, plan to flap wheel it and paint it up.
 
Tim_MN said:
Unless you are having problems with doors or the hatch not shutting or staying shut why bother?
Click to expand...
No problems there, and I want to keep it that way.

Tim_MN said:
A rear class III hitch ties together the ends of the frame rails. On the front you can tie together the ends of the frame rails by using part of the factory tow hook bracket system (pic) and welding some square tube between the two.
Click to expand...
Have one. The front skid I used to have helped a bit up front, but I took it off for an easier time during maintenance. I may weld some square tube in there where you suggested. What about a tube joining the front shock towers above the engine? Maybe there isn't enough clearance for that, though.
 
HD bumpers and a hitch help a lot with the torsional rigidity of the frame and I would start there.

Beefing up the stock crossmember helps too...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1068052915032428117zMeSXQ

I took this a couple of steps further adding two extra crossmembers when going to real coils and a 3 link...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1099870781032428117rdDHvf

this one runs between the two upper coil buckets and attaches to the frame in multiple spots, kinda tough to see in the first one but the second pic shows it fabbed up...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1403517527032428117kDvCQg
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1088493679032428117ZDvxbs

A well braced cage is the ulitmate stiffener but thats another thread...
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1348122706032428117RywiAl

These mods combined with the bumpers and hitch have made a huge difference but for mild wheeling its way overkill... I planned on cutting the roof off so I knew I would need all the bracing I could add. Just takes time, materials, and a little fabbin.
 
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