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Oil filter adaptor housing

D

dutchjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Half Moon Bay, CA
Ok, I have been checking out my jeep for outstanding leaks that I am gonna fix this week. This of course includes the O-ring set on the oil filter adaptor housing. Read Go Jeep's posting on that. Now, I've checked the housing out but I don't seem to have a torx on there, just a regular bolt head. Am I looking right or is this just different for different years? Mine is a 1992 with the 6line 4.0l.

Tim
 
The older Renix ones had a regular bolt head. Maybe they continued with that for a while after. The 95 is definitely a Torx. If it is a bolt head you're lucky, because it's likely to be easier to remove. I'm not sure why they changed to the Torx head, which is a real nuisance.
 
dzraces said:
some one could have changed it to a regualr bolt like I did
Click to expand...
How did you manage to pull that one off? Did you just get a bolt from an older one? It has a hole in the middle of it IIRC.
 
Consider yourself VERY lucky if you have a bolt vs. a torx head.

It's not the fact that the newer ones are torx heads that are bad, it's the fact that its such a damn BIG torx head (T-60), and you can't even get a t-60 bit inbetween the bolt and the frame of the Jeep.
 
99XJSPORT06 said:
Consider yourself VERY lucky if you have a bolt vs. a torx head.

It's not the fact that the newer ones are torx heads that are bad, it's the fact that its such a damn BIG torx head (T-60), and you can't even get a t-60 bit inbetween the bolt and the frame of the Jeep.
Click to expand...

X2 WHAT A PITA THAT WAS:exclamati Thanks for advanced auto I went out and bought their torx head set they look like allen wrenches just barely made the fit. Also mine was so caked up I needed the "convincer" its what i call my breaker bar finally I broke it loose. I did not take long thou. It was well worth the 40mins added on to the oil change.

Now the hard part my rear main is leaking................thats another day
 
I have both a 90 and 92 with the same filter requriements. After getting the 92, I bought a filter based on the cataloge and stuck it in. Stupid me for not looking at the label on the firewall. Still have the oil stain on my driveway from pumping 6 quarts on it!
 
I'm trying to collect a batch of oil filter adapter housing screws (the through screw with the bore and cross-holes) to measure. If the dimensions are all the same, I'll start CNC-ing a batch at school from wrought stock with a 5/8" hex head (like RENIX.) Should make them stronger and easier to deal with, I think...

Anyone have any to donate? I've got plenty of RENIX around, but I need to get some with the hex socket head, and some with the Torx socket head...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
I'm trying to collect a batch of oil filter adapter housing screws (the through screw with the bore and cross-holes) to measure. If the dimensions are all the same, I'll start CNC-ing a batch at school from wrought stock with a 5/8" hex head (like RENIX.) Should make them stronger and easier to deal with, I think...

Anyone have any to donate? I've got plenty of RENIX around, but I need to get some with the hex socket head, and some with the Torx socket head...

5-90
Click to expand...
can you send me a renix one to test on a HO engine if it works then we can save us both from doin the same fabbing
 
O-ring grooves on the bolts are different diameters and sizes. I know this because I got the wrong set and the Torx bolt uses much smaller o-rings on the shaft.

The o-ring sealing to the block is the same however.
 
I brazed a nut to my oil filter adapter bolt.

But... I have seen both torx, allen and hex heads on that bolt and I found a hex one at a junkyard on a Comanche, 1992 I think. I have it sitting in a jar of oil saving it for the future. So these do exist and I have a feeling that they were used in various years, whatever the factory had on hand at the time.
 
Makes some odd sense - then I definitely want to get at least one of each! Once I get them, it's just a matter of making small changes in the CNC programme for each year - but then they can go on the mill to get the hex head done. Problem solved.

Also, it looks like the OEM screw is sintered - making them from wrought stock will make them stronger. I'll probably end up making them from brass or aluminum, which should reduce or eliminate the "seizing" problem I've noted in changing a couple...
 
5-90 said:
Makes some odd sense - then I definitely want to get at least one of each! Once I get them, it's just a matter of making small changes in the CNC programme for each year - but then they can go on the mill to get the hex head done. Problem solved.

Also, it looks like the OEM screw is sintered - making them from wrought stock will make them stronger. I'll probably end up making them from brass or aluminum, which should reduce or eliminate the "seizing" problem I've noted in changing a couple...
Click to expand...

The FSM for 95 puts the torque for the bolt at 75 foot pounds, and for 99 it's 50 foot pounds. When I did my 95 it was much tighter than that. Can you make a hollow brass or aluminum bolt that would take that kind of torque?
 
Matthew Currie said:
The FSM for 95 puts the torque for the bolt at 75 foot pounds, and for 99 it's 50 foot pounds. When I did my 95 it was much tighter than that. Can you make a hollow brass or aluminum bolt that would take that kind of torque?
Click to expand...

It's worth finding out. If not, there are some MoS2 coatings and the like I'm willing to try - even accounting for a 75 pound-foot installation preload, the few I've done have always felt like they were nearly seized in place...

I'm always kicking around ideas in the back of my mind - the trick is coming up with something that will work. Once I have measurements, I can write a programme. Working with different materials is a fairly simple programme change, once it's written...
 
Matthew Currie said:
The FSM for 95 puts the torque for the bolt at 75 foot pounds, and for 99 it's 50 foot pounds. When I did my 95 it was much tighter than that...
Click to expand...

Is there a good reason for it to be so tight? I can't imagine it coming loose from the block or blown out by hydraulic pressure. It just has to be tight enough to get the o-ring to seal and tight enough that it will not loosen when changing the filter.
 
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