The EGR valve pictured should give you a good idea for a "basic" valve - sometimes, they also have a "vacuum transducer" attached to them, which looks like a copy of the diaphragm case (yellowish part) only plastic. You should find it sticking out the side of the intake manifold plenum, about halfway back. There is a metal tube under it that goes to the exhaust manifold.
The purpose of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is to reduce NOx emissions by slowing combustion/reducing temperatures by allowing a metered amount of exhaust gas into the intake stream at cruise. That's the oficial story - for the AMC242, I think the purpose of the thing is just to crap up the intake with carbon. I say this because my 87 had a non-functional EGR valve - but it passed the "sniffer" test just fine - and failed the "functional" test (which I didn't authorise, but they did anyhow.)
On higher-compression engines, I can see the utility - but on low-compression engines (like ours,) the EGR doesn't really have an effect on NOx, but a functional EGR will actually increase HC and CO emissions! I've got "before and after" reports indicating this... This is why I have a hard time with the idea of the thing - I'd sooner be quit of it, but the California Air Police won't let me (despite test results.)
Testing the EGR valve -
Draw a vacuum (using a hand pump, engine OFF) to ~10" and hold for 30 seconds. The vacuum should hold - this is done to check for leaks at the diaphragm.
Repeat, with engine IDLING. The engine should stall out due to the intake stream contamination - if it doesn't, you've got blocked passages, or a blocked valve (which happens - there's a lot of carbon in there.) If you have to remove/replace the EGR valve, the gasket is OEMR only, but I've also used RTV Copper with good results.
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