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View Full Version : D44 Truss X 2

waxer
July 5th, 2006, 16:52
Ok, after getting some feedback from CRASH and a bunch of others, I changed the design and went with one that I liked best and seemed to have all the features that were discussed.

2 x 5 x .250 rec tubing, notched to give bend and cut to match shape of pumpkin.

On to the pics...


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00197.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00191.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00192.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00190.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00194.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e262/waxerk5/DSC00188.jpg
Kittrell
July 5th, 2006, 17:05
Flatten out the top some? Damn I'm picky................:D
steelmen
July 5th, 2006, 17:29
looks great
what kind of locking is she going to have?
4.88?
waxer
July 5th, 2006, 18:04
I was going to go with the flat top look, but there is nothing the top of the truss will hit so I said to hell with it :)

Currently its Lincoln locked until I can afford to get new gears. Yes they will be 4.88's with a Detroit locker.
Gil BullyKatz
July 5th, 2006, 18:23
Never let it be said that I never say anything positive to anyone...

Nice job!
CanMan
July 5th, 2006, 19:00
Looks good and sturdy. Are you going to fill in betweent the welds that are already there? Keep up the good work!
waxer
July 5th, 2006, 19:05
Looks good and sturdy. Are you going to fill in betweent the welds that are already there? Keep up the good work!

Well I wanted to keep the welding on the Cast to a minimum so as you can see I put a nice bead along the top of the housing. The rest I was thinking of either going trailer trash with JB weld, or using silicon to seal it up.

I dunno, what do you think?

I used MIG for the axle tube welding, ran outta wire, and put in flux core for the top of the housing welds. I pre-heated and post-heated the welded area to allow a slow cooling.
CanMan
July 5th, 2006, 19:17
Well I wanted to keep the welding on the Cast to a minimum so as you can see I put a nice bead along the top of the housing. The rest I was thinking of either going trailer trash with JB weld, or using silicon to seal it up.

I dunno, what do you think?

I used MIG for the axle tube welding, ran outta wire, and put in flux core for the top of the housing welds. I pre-heated and post-heated the welded area to allow a slow cooling.

I was wondering if you were going to finish welding between the welds, on the tubes that is. It should be strong enough as it is. I would go with JB weld, just to keep crap out from under there.
waxer
July 5th, 2006, 19:20
Ahh I gotcha now. Yah I stitch welded the tubes on purpose to keep heat down. I could completely fill them in but I don't see the need.

I suppose water getting inside and creating rust would be one reason to weld them completely up, but then I'd have to make sure the housing is also completely sealed.

Living in Cali and this being a trail only rig, I think it will be fine leaving it stitch welded tho, so to answer your question, no I'm not going to weld it completely up on the tubes.
Roxtar
July 6th, 2006, 06:30
Needs more triangulation :D
Lawn Cher'
July 6th, 2006, 08:25
Needs more triangulation :D

Like this?

http://www.mondotees.com/ProductImages/bangonicons/pink%20triangle.jpg
cracker
July 6th, 2006, 13:25
You should also weld the tubes to the diff. You don't need much. I'd do 3 1" welds (one on the front, on on the back, and one on the bottom since you have the truss). It helps out the OEM rosettes that seem to fail.
jdogg4
July 6th, 2006, 20:35
Looks good I have a chunk of 2x6x1/6 rt sitting in the garage ready to get cut up to make mine. Going to pick up the gears for it this weekend. I was going to flat top mine and taper them down on the sides.
bobnoxious
July 7th, 2006, 05:14
Why the flux core for welding to the cast???

Nice work:D

Thanks
waxer
July 7th, 2006, 07:06
Why the flux core for welding to the cast???

Nice work:D

Thanks

Cause I ran outta solid MIG wire just before moving to the cast part. :)
tealcherokee
July 7th, 2006, 08:07
Cause I ran outta solid MIG wire just before moving to the cast part. :)

i think the flux core works quite well when welding to cast
jdogg4
July 7th, 2006, 08:16
ROD is the best way to go more heat more penatration did you heat up the casted part before welding to it. Just keep an eye on it.
waxer
July 7th, 2006, 09:29
ROD is the best way to go more heat more penatration did you heat up the casted part before welding to it. Just keep an eye on it.

Yep, preheated and postheated to let it cool slowly
MistWolf
July 9th, 2006, 19:15
Cut lightening holes. That'll help keep the crap out & maybe bring the weight below that of a D70! :)

Seriously, lightening holes would help
CRASH
July 10th, 2006, 07:00
Looks good, much better than version 1.0.
woody
July 12th, 2006, 17:31
I like it... had a similar plan for mine.

A couple questions and such... (I don't have paint so I'll have to try to draw a mental picture.

#1 The truss ends terminate a bit short of the spring perches (which appear to be beefy MORE units or something similar.

Wouldn't it be better to have extended the truss to tie into the sides of the perches? It would make a less acute angle as well as bridge things in better?

#2 Lightening holes vs sealing: Boxed like that, given the existing welds, I'd add the 3 tube welds as suggested - or 360*, and I suppose that good caulk could seal the gaps pretty well.

My thoughts were to have the lightening holes (dimple die cut? or plasma?saw cut) also split along the tube. This would allow mud & debris to be hosed out, and reduce both the weight and the length of bead to run along the tubes.

More work for more better?

I like what you have done so far though... worlds better than stock.
MogifiedXJ
July 14th, 2006, 22:45
If you flattend out the top that would make a nice place to mount some links to. Nice work though.