Just installed durango alt.

Has anyone else used the 136 amp durango unit? I'm wondering if I will need to upgrade the charging wire to a bigger gauge? I have a suzuki that I changed the alt in it and smoked the charging wire while winchin. Any thoughts would be helpful.

It never hurts to go a bigger gauge wire on the charging side of the alternator. With the stock size wire, I would expect it to get pretty hot, if not burn out.

You should also check to see what the OEM circuit protection is - on a lot of HO XJ's, it consists of two MAXI60 fuses in parallel, which gives a total circuit capacity of 120A.

Granted, just because your Durango unit can make 136A doesn't mean it does it all the time. "Max rated" output is just that - maximum output (and it can vary by -5/+10% anyhow.) Your alternator output will be controlled by the voltage regulator to make whatever the system needs at the time - which can be down around 30-50A, depending upon load and accessories in use.

However, automakers being what they are (whyever do the let accountants get involved in engineering decisions?) it's a cinch that your OEM wiring can't handle more than the OEMR alternator output for sustained periods. For the RENIX XJ, I've calculated a "sustained" capacity of about 110A - but an upgrade is indicated, if you go to a larger Delco unit.

For the 1991-1998 or so XJ, which came with an OEMR unit of about 90A, that's about the limit of sustained operation. Even with the two MAXI60 fuses (if you don't have a fusible link - even odds...) the wiring is the limiting factor.

For 1999 or thereabouts, they went to a unit with a max rated output of ~120A - which can use the full capcity of the fuses, and therefore the wiring is up to scratch for 120A sustained (I think - I'd not want to push it that far without some more number crunching...)

There are a number of "upgrade" wiring vendors out there - I'm one of them (link in sig, keep comms backchannel, please!) and what you can run into with them depends, really, upon who you're dealing with.

A good example is Jeepers & Creepers - while they've got solid wiring (0AWG or 00AWG I think - I don't recall - and ordnance-style clamps,) their kit isn't going to upgrade your alternator output circuit. Most don't, because they haven't devised a manner to keep alternator output circuit fuse protection.

My kits have an ANL option - which not only allows you to upgrade wiring while keeping fuse protection, but also make the fuse upgradeable, easily replacable, and should be something you can source locally in a pinch (I do sell extras as well - but if you're in a hurry, there's a reason I used the ANL-style fuse. They're also available from most Autosound shops - but cost about three times what I sell them for! I told you it was "in a pinch...")

While I've got a "standard kit" option for RENIX-era XJ's, I've been hitting my head on providing a standard kit for HO (1991-2001,) because they put the cruise control servo where I put the ANL fuse block - and I don't have any HO rigs around to re-design the kit. This doesn't mean that it can't be done - it just means I haven't come up with a standard approach for it yet. If you don't have cruise control, or have removed it, then you can use the standard ANL kit.

Also - remember that if I don't have it listed, doesn't mean I can't do it. I just might not have confirmed data for the applications yet... If you have questions, please feel free to ask (I'm writing a FAQ page anyhow,) and I'll answer them where I can. E-mail: JeepI6Power AT yahoo DOT com (also links from the site.)

5-90

Another good option to install a fuse is to get a "megafuse" that is available from most auto parts stores for pretty cheap. They make them with real high amp ratings and most inbetween. Then using an aftermarket bigger output wire you can put the megafuse in the wire creating a "fuseable link." I connected mine to the PDC box, which is directly connected to the battery. These fuses seem to be a pretty good choice as the cost is low and they seem to be pretty readily available.

Yes I think I will upgrade the output wire. I'm going to move the battery under the passengers front seat also. Does the charging wire just go from the alt to the fuse block?

It should - either through a pair of MAXI60 fuses in the PDC proper, or via a fusible link. Either way, there should be some sort of "quick-disconnect" that you can pull to remove the wire.

When replacing/upgrading the alternator output lead, you can connect it where it originally was (why?) to the PDC input post, or to the battery + post - electrically speaking, they're all the same connection. You'll want to use a fuse in between the alternator and the rest of the vehicle, but connecting it to the "rest of the vehicle" should not prove too difficult.

Please feel free to ask if I can be any help!

5-90

Unless your running an Optima or putting the battery in a sealed externally vented case I would not put the battery under the passenger seat. JMO

I wouldn't put the battery under a seat for starts. Put it in the footwell behind the right seat if you don't use the back seats for anything, or just move it back into the cargo area...

You can usually run the battery ground to a convenient, clean, sheet metal part - but the positive can be a poser. You'll end up having to run that forward to the PDC or the start motor post (or both!) and I'd probably find it easier to just pull it forward to both - 4AWG for the PDC and 1AWG for the start motor. If you want some tips on measuring and mocking up your cable runs, let me know, I'd be happy to help.

And, since anywhere you put the battery is going to be in the cabin, I'd put it in a plastic box that can be fairly well-sealed (I think Moroso makes one that's useful) and run a drain/vent line to the exterior of the cabin, probably exiting undercar. Even Optimas can outgas slightly, and it doesn't take much hydrogen or hydrogen sulphide gas to become objectionable...

5-90

I'm running as yellow top so no need to worry about the vent. The reason I am moving it under the seat is for weight distribution, also to take some weight off of the front end. the winch will basically substitute for the battery as far as weight goes. I'm only running 3 inches of lift, so I want to not have the front sag with a battery and a winch.

Please post some picture of the location and fit. Im interested in getting the battery off my nose as well

smilesyota said:

I'm running as yellow top so no need to worry about the vent. The reason I am moving it under the seat is for weight distribution, also to take some weight off of the front end. the winch will basically substitute for the battery as far as weight goes. I'm only running 3 inches of lift, so I want to not have the front sag with a battery and a winch.

Click to expand...

If that's the case, you should probably run the battery farther back - say, behind the backseat, rather than "under the pax seat" (however it is you're going to swing that...)

Also, considering the weight of a winch, you may want to run a pair of Yellow Tops (you're worried about weight distributon, no?) in direct parallel or with one on an isolator, and mount one to either side of the cargo bay. Just a thought - the two batteries should just about counterbalance the winch, once you move them back far enough.

I'd still want to run a smallish vent hose to the outside of the cabin - but then again, I'm cranky that way...

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