SYE time and I really don't want to screw this up

Well, I have the parts for my homebrew SYE, now I just have to find the balls to do it. I like some opinions before I do any permanent damage to my transfercase. I have a front DS from a '98 w/ a AW4, and a corvette yoke that bolts right up to the double cardan. I'll be installing this on a '97 w/ a 4.0 and AW4. For those that have done this, how much of the TC output shaft did you remove and how short did you cut the yoke? Also, what size bolt did you use to secure the yoke. While I'm doing this I plan on removing my 1" TC drop, does this affect any of the measurements? I'd appreciate any responses, opinions, etc.:dunno:

Thanks,

Ron

if there is one thing I would NEVER do, it's homebrew my driveline, but that's just me...

Define "homebrew SYE"... does this mean you hand machined a new output shaft? and whats the deal with the corvette yoke? Yes putting an SYE in does affect your measurments... you will need a slightly longer drive shaft now, with a double cardon, but im assuming you know that

Here's mine. I don't know what TC you have, but this might be some helpful info. Also, a couple of other hombrewers linked their SYE too, so there are a couple.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80289

Hope it helps. And as for...

if there is one thing I would NEVER do, it's homebrew my driveline, but that's just me...

Don't be scared. It will be OK.


And last 3/8 x 1" fine thread

oh so by home brew you mean hack and tap...gotcha

personally i would be saving up the extra $ and getting a real SYE with a HD output shaft...IMHO

dsgray16 said:

oh so by home brew you mean hack and tap...gotcha

personally i would be saving up the extra $ and getting a real SYE with a HD output shaft...IMHO

Click to expand...

Goody for you. Any more valuable input?

As for the original poster, your TC drop doesn't really matter much. What does matter though is what TC you have and what rear axle you have. What year is your XJ. You need to give a little more info if you really are unsure what you are doing.

oh, if you just meant hack n tap, I wouldn't berate you. I thought you meant you were going to take the slip yoke shaft and make it a CV style:looney:

More info.

Ok, I guess I should have been more specific, so here goes. I have a '97 w/ a 231 transfercase and 8.25" rear, and a Rusty's 3" lift which is about 3" in the rear and 4" in the front. I want to hack and tap my output shaft and use a corvette yoke i bought on ebay, which bolts directly to a front driveshaft from a '98 XJ w/ an AW4 and 231. Here are some measurements.

Rear DS (ctr to ctr of u-joints) 28"
XJ front shaft, (ctr to ctr) 31" compressed 33 1/2" extended
TC output shaft 4 1/2", 3 1/4" of that is splined
Yoke depth 4 3/8"

Rubicon Express says to leave 1 1/8 - 1 1/4" of splines remaining for their H & T. Does that sound reasonable for what I'm attempting to do? Keep in mind I'll be removing my TC drop (1") at the same time. Hope this clears it up.

Ron

I don't see a problem with any of that. Why I asked was because you might of had a problem with not having enough rear drive shaft, but with everything you mentioned, a front shaft should be fine. I thought most RE HnTs use 1" of spline. I used 1 1/4 just to make myself feel better. I have heard of using Corvette yokes, but don't have personal knowledge. It does have the right spline count for your TC right???

One thing to keep in mind is if there is any unsplined space in your yoke. If there was say 1/2" unsplined at the yoke end, and you left 1 1/4" spline on your TC shaft, then you would only have 3/4" spline engagement.

If you are set on using a front drive shaft, then cut the TC shaft for that. Remove your TC drop. Then see if you can get a good measurement for where you need your yoke to be. You can't leave 3" of spline on your TC shaft and hang your yoke off the end. That would be bad. But you have a little room. If another 1/4" or 1/2" would make a big difference on the travel in your drive shaft then I would say go ahead. But overall, you want it as short as possible with at least 1 1/8" of spline engagement.

You can cut your yoke however you see fit. Anything after the splines is just hanging in space. If there is a shoulder you can butt up against that would help. I don't know about 231s since mine is a 242.

Powerman,
The yoke I have is the same spline count/ measurement as my transfercase, and is fully splined, so i can cut it to any length. My plan was to cut the output shaft to leave around 1 1/4" of splines and then cut the yoke to fit flush against the seal.

I also planned to use a 3/8" bolt, like the one supplied w/ the RE H&T.

Ron

CGEMC said:

Powerman,
The yoke I have is the same spline count/ measurement as my transfercase, and is fully splined, so i can cut it to any length. My plan was to cut the output shaft to leave around 1 1/4" of splines and then cut the yoke to fit flush against the seal.

I also planned to use a 3/8" bolt, like the one supplied w/ the RE H&T.

Ron

Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan to me.

When I did my SYE I used the parts from this writeup. I left about 1.25 to 1.5 inches of splines on the output shaft. http://jeepin.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17048&highlight=front

Well, it's finally done

I finally found the time today to tackle this project, and I thought I'd post a few pictures. The parts cost was, $87.50 for the yoke on ebay (couldn't find one at the pick-n-pull), $9 for the D/S at the pick-n-pull (1/2 off on black friday), ~$6 for the bolt, washer, and a new strap kit for the rear u-joint. Thanks to BrokeXJ, and his brother for snagging the D/S for me.:cheers:
Driveshaft removed, ready to remove transfercase drop.

After cutting the output shaft. I used an angle grinder w/ a cut-off wheel and braced it against the cat. converter, I left approx. 1 1/4" of splines.

Yoke mounted. I cut the yoke using a chop saw and drilled and tapped the output shaft to accept a 3/8-16 bolt

The finished product.

Excellent. I see you have plenty of room on your slip joint. When are you going to get rid of that TC drop. Good job:thumbup:

That last picture is w/ the TC drop removed. When I first started cutting I was so nervous I thought I was going to cut one of my fingers off w/ the grinder.
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

Ron

Nice Job. I broke a Craftsman tap off in my 242 a couple weeks ago. I couldn't get it out, so I bought a 242 with a bad rear case (gouged on the mount holes a little) for 150.00 with 16,000 miles on it. Then had a machine shop cut and tap on his lathe.

Now I have an extra 242 for a doubler.

I'll never drill a mainshaft again - what a pain in the ass.

Ron,
Looks good. Time for Paragon....

Couldn't you use the stock slip yoke instead of the corvette one?