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To lift or not to lift?

Michman

NAXJA Forum User
OK, folks, the XJ I just picked up for my wife from a state of Michigan vehicle auction may not be the great vehicle I thought it was. It’s a 97, 4 liter, auto (OD), select-trac (2H, 4H, N, 4L), 24,000 miles, air, cruise, clean, etc. Only information I have was it was owned by the university of Michigan regents, which qualified it to be sold a as a state of Michigan vehicle.
After I changed the oil and filter my wife ran it to our regular mechanic. The garage owner (2-man garage), and our mechanic are insistent that it had a plow attached. The lower plastic spoiler that runs directly under the bumper has two obviously cut outs approximately 6 to 8 inches. I assumed some had installed fog lights and then removed them. They claim the front springs and shocks were replaced due to front end sag when the plow was removed. The front springs still have the original factory finish on them, the front shocks have speckles of rust all over them. The exhaust system is rusty enough to be replaced, driveshafts are also rusty, along with axels housing, driveshafts, etc. But this is Michigan, and we use a LOTS of salt here. But the underside of the body is clean. Also, there are no obvious signs of where a plow was attached to the frame, though I did see holes on both the left and right front axle trailing arms, and possible attachment points to the frame rails. But I would have thought if they attached it to the frame rails, it would be very obvious, paint scraped off, telltale bolt marks, etc..
My wife wanted a mild lift on it so I already purchased a 2 inch budget lift from Rocky Road. The garage owner claimed this would cause the u-joints to bust, because he said, the driveshafts angles aren’t that great from the factory, along with putting way too much stress on the transmission, differentials and transfer case. His position is the plow put a lot of wear and tear on them, and lift kit would only make them go out faster.
So basically what I thought was a solid vehicle may not be a candidate for a lift kit. We’re at a crossroad, do we follow our original game plan (lift-kit, 15X7 wheels, 30/31 inch tires) or heed our mechanics advice to keep it stock, and sell it if we have to start pouring money into it. Also, this will not be used for 4 wheeling, this is her daily driver, and we hope to have it for many years. She just wanted a nice looking Cherokee that stood out from all the other mommy mobiles. Thanks in advance for any guidance. Any 4 wheel shops in mid-Michigan would be appreciate too.
 
<sigh> Gotta love SPOBI........ </sigh>

24,000 miles on a 97? That should be just barely broken in.

There's no way you could safely attach a plow frame to the control arms. I'd start looking for other signs, like additional holes in the firewall for the plow controls.

As far as u-joints go, how is plowing snow harder than rock crawling? I don't know of any plow guys running CTMs. It's a 97 with the new tcase tailcone, you *MAY* have problems with driveline vibrations, but that's at least as much due to design as anything else.

Personally, I don't think a 2" budget boost is tall enough to run 31" tires. YMMV.

ChiXJeff
 
If I had a daily driver Jeep that I wasn't going to use for off-roading, I'd put a 1" or 2" lift on it and run 30's or 31's. If you're running the stock wheels, you might get away with 31's, but I'd probably go with 30x9.5's.
 
Ignore the "mechanic". You may get vibes but that is common on the late model xj's, and is correctable with a SYE. With a 2" budget boost you will only be able to run 30x9.5 tires without trimming. I think you may be right with your fog light assumption, IMO you would be insane to plow with an xj, and the bracing on the uniframe required would be fairly obviuos. The rust most likely isn't a big deal, if you want to get rid of it use a wire brush and a can of spray paint.
 
With only 24,000 miles on it, I'd say go for the lift. A 2" kit with 30 or 31" tires just makes the Cherokee feel that much more stable on the road. I have 4 3/4" lift on mine and no bad vibrations with BFG AT 31's.
 
The mechanic is an idiot. He may know cars but I wouldn't listen to anything he says about modifying a 4x4. I have a '97 that I ran at 3" for 2 years. To be fair, I did screw up the pinion bearing, but the U-joints did fine. Any problems with the driveline angles can be fixed with a t-case drop and MJ shackles and/or shims. If you are not going to be taking it off road, these fixes should be fine. If you're worried about the old U-joints, replace them. They only cost $15-$20 apiece. 30" tires will be about the limit.
mattk
 
Just curious, after all of the disconcerting info from the mechanic did he "recomend" selling (to a buyer that he just happen to have in mind) or, better yet and more to the point, offer to buy? :rolleyes:
 
firstly, where in MI are you? secondly, welcome to NAXJA.

thirdly, lift it, if you're going two inches it will very likely not have many if any vibes, if you do a shim in the rear and/or a t-case drop should take care of it. I wouldn't think that you'd fit 30's or bigger with only 2 inches tho. To the guy that said not to lift only for looks, don't listen to him, what does he know, lifting is the single best mod for a XJ to stand apart from the soccar moms.

You asked about shops in Mid MI, there really isn't any that I'd trust to do any of my work, there's Michigan Off Road in Lansing but they're over priced for EVERYTHING and I havn't seen anything come from there that impressed me. After October I should have some time if you wanted to work on it in my garage, I live in Ithaca.

Forget what your mechanic told you, you did the right thing comming here for advice. So what if it had a plow on it, it can take it, and why wouldn't you plow with an XJ, pushing isn't as hard on a Jeep as twisting all the time like I do with mine.

The u-joints are an easy fix anyhow, don't worry about them.

As for the lift, I'd prob go with a shackle and a small block for the rear and spring spacers for the front, keep the stock shocks until you get it lifted and see if you need new ones, prob not you're only talking 2". Don't go buy new tires till after the lift, you may want to keep them and maybe buy after market wheels.

Dont' worry about the rust either.

Later
Dan
 
the only plow frames i have looked at mount between the bumper and the bumper mounts... and when removed it can be hard to pick up on.. i agree with "fore wheler" a small sensible lift is a good idea....... my stock 99 sits too damn low.... that will be fixed in time for Moab though.. u-joints would be a good preventive measure especially since there seems to be reason to believe it was plowed.. check structural things like control arm mounts and engine and trany mounts... plowing is harder on those more than anything else.. but before you do anything..
get a new mechanic...!!!!!
sounds like his personal opinions and his bathroom reading of certain Petersen publishing material has corrupted what little actual knowledge he had...
good deal on the XJ... be good ot it, and it'll be good to you for years to come..
mike
 
Thanks folks, really appreciate the postive feedback. Looks like we can start shopping for new wheels and tires. Fore Wheeler thanks for the offer to help. I see you're about an hour north of Lansing. If you're offer is still good email me at [email protected], and we can arrange a time to install the lift kit. Just know I have limited mechanical ability, I have been using PB powerblaster to help things go smoother. If not I'll give Ralph a call. Thanks again all.
 
Glad to here your not selling it. i bet the mechanic recommended replacing all that crap too right? Lift it, if you have vibes, just get a transfercase drop kit - they're like $10 or you can make one since they're really only 1" metal spacers. You're not off-roading so the loss in clearance shouldn't matter. if you do start off-roading it isn't a big enough deal to worry about it till you think you really need more clearance.

If you're really worried about the plow thing, go back to the mechanic and have him POINT OUT exactly what he saw that makes him think it had a plow. He'll probably rack it up to experience. The only thing I would do then is look closely around the powersteering box and the frame near the bumper mounts for any cracks since it is a unibody. With 24K though I serious doubt you will find anything.

Goodluck!
 
I started with Rocky Road 2" lift but ended up with Rusty's 3" and AA SYE because the vibrations were horrible and I ended up with Death wobble on the rocky road budget lift. The hardware is beefy but its not complete enough to correct the angles. You would probably have to drop the Tcase and shim the rear, but the stock springs are so weak and the shackle so tall that I think the springs wont last long with that setup. I would go with an add a leaf (or two) in the rear if you plan on keeping it inexpensive and want to stay that way for awhile.
 
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