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Started the lift today...

flyingphil

NAXJA Forum User
Basically I'm doing the standard RE 4.5 inch kit with JKS disco's. So far, I had to cut, ahem, gring away the inner LCA bolts. They seemed attached to they're rubber surroundings... Then the swaybar studs on the axle wouldn't budge. Oh and the spring perches on top don't line up with the spring, I'm a little worried about that one. Maybe when I align the truck all will fall into place, I hope. Forgot the camera, will bring tomorow. I'm doing this at the Auto club on Base, heated and well lit. What more can I ask for, eh?


Phil, destroyer of things.:D
 
XJ_Vikings said:
the sway bar axle bolts were a bitch, the combination of heat and an impact hammer did the trick after a few minutes.
X2 on that, same thing had to be done to mine.
 
flyingphil said:
What size torx bit do I need to get for that? Oh, and I don't have heat but I have plenty of lube.... GIT-ER-DONE!!!


Phil, oh do I ever need my bed.

Pretty sure it's a t50 torx bit.

I just ended up cutting my links off, after snapping my bit with the impact wrench and THEN reading the packaging that said "not for impact use."

And as far as not having heat, it's understandable to not have a cutting torch, but you can get a bottle torch for like $20... Those things are awfully useful for freeing stuck fasteners.
 
The sway bar links press in and out - they do not turn! That torx head is there to confuse you.

Heat, a big clamp and very big hammer knocked mine out.

The LCA bolts do corrode themselves to the bushings - replacements are M14 (metric 14mm) and tricky to get high tensile at short notice here, even though everthing is metric!!
 
English XJ said:
The sway bar links press in and out - they do not turn! That torx head is there to confuse you.

Heat, a big clamp and very big hammer knocked mine out.

The LCA bolts do corrode themselves to the bushings - replacements are M14 (metric 14mm) and tricky to get high tensile at short notice here, even though everthing is metric!!
HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Your the best man. I'm getting a little propane torch from Home Hardware and pounding that thing out. As for the bolts, the kit came with two replacement ones, thank God.

Phil :spin1:
 
I don't know how different the JKS are from the RE Gen 2's, but I just cut down my studs to the length that the bolt would be, and screwed the pin that goes over it over that.
 
for the swaybar bolts, cut the head off the bolt and then tighten the nut (with the sway bar link still installed). Pulls the stud right out...
 
English XJ said:
The sway bar links press in and out - they do not turn! That torx head is there to confuse you.

The four jeeps I lifted in 2006 all had them turn. ;) Maybe you need to turn harder.
 
cal said:
The four jeeps I lifted in 2006 all had them turn. ;) Maybe you need to turn harder.

I've done two and both had splines beneath the bolt head where it sit in the bracket which had corresponding splines. One 1995 Dana30, one 1998 Dana30???

Still you don't need to keep them so pound, cut and turn as much as you like!!
 
I had the same problem with mine..... I just got a socket that fit around the back side of it and have a buddy hold it and push the opposite direction you are pounding it in so I didn't bend the tab and pounded the crap out of it.....like 20 times...didn't seem like it was working and then bam they were airborn..
 
cal said:
The four jeeps I lifted in 2006 all had them turn. ;) Maybe you need to turn harder.

Yeah, all right there...
jeeplift005.jpg

jeeplift003.jpg

jeeplift006.jpg

Thank god for the mighty zip gun and propane torch!

All's well, just had her aligned and she rides great.
jeeplift011.jpg

Now, does anybody know how to change the front u-joints?:doh:

Phil, in a state of constant evolution...
 
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